Will these capacitors be ok, or is the size difference a problem?

[Diggsy]

Guys, first post so please be gentle

I need to replace the caps (and maybe the transformer) in my Samsung SM206BW PSU.

The 3 Capxon caps were replaced a couple of years ago by a neighbour, which fixed the flickering problems, however now it has developed what I believe to be 2 seconds to black.

Anyway, the caps in there now (ones that were replaced before) are the following...

1 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120524889933

2 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120544294829

I was going to replace these with Panasonic caps, and bought the following, before I realised they are a different physical size ...

1 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320882086299

2 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320801869585

Oh and I've bought these too to replace the cap near the transformer (so they are all done with good quality caps) and even they are a little (maybe 3mm or so) shorter...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220902689030


The ratings (uf and v) are the same and they will definately fit on the board, so that's not a problem, but my question is will the new caps be okay, or do I need to buy different ones that are closer in physical size?

I get the impression they will be fine as I think they are much higher quality caps, but this is merely a guess on my part and I would appreciate an educated answer from one of you guys.

Thanks a lot in advance for any advice.

Oh, I can take and post photo's of the board if required.

[mariushm]

The original capacitors were crap, no name ones.

The second ones... the pictures on the ebay auction are for Cornell Dublier capacitors... but the description says Panasonic FK and FM.
So you really have to clarify what you actually received... a picture would definitely help.

FM is low ESR and good, FK is lower specs compared to FM or FR. But, if the monitor did work with those no name crap capacitors, it will probably work fine with these Panasonic capacitors (if they really are Panasonic)

No need to worry about the size - as long as they fit on the board and you can close the metal lid and the tops don't touch the case, you're good to go.

Generally you also don't have to worry about the voltage rating, as long as the new capacitors have equal or higher rating. So you can put 63v rated capacitors when the old ones were 25v-35v.

ps. This is how genuine Panasonic FM capacitors look, these in the pictures are 1000uF 16v - the 25-35v are just taller and maybe a bit larger in diameter:

[Diggsy]

Wow! Thanks a lot for the fast and very helpful reply!! I'll take a couple of snaps of the caps now, just give me a minute...

[Diggsy]

Okay, here are the pics as promised. The last one is a pic of a capacitor that I replaced last week, I think it's a decent Panasonic version, and if so, I take it that one should be fine and not need replaced with this batch?

Thanks again and I hope the pics are ok.

[retiredcaps]

White are probably FR series. Gold is FM series. Both look authentic and not counterfeit.

[mariushm]

The capacitors look ok. The last picture... if the top doesn't touch the metal lid when you close it, it's Ok.

Maybe it's the camera lens or the angle, but it looks to me the main capacitor (the large one) is a bit swollen.

These usually don't go bad and the whole board isn't very sensitive about it, but still, if it's swollen you should consider replacing it.

[Diggsy]

Thanks again guys, put my mind at rest. So can I assume these should be ok to use? Oh by the way that is the lens playing tricks, the large capacitor is perfectly flat - I just checked it.

EDIT - caps replaced, seems to be fine, but still have the 2 seconds to black issue, so just need to wait for the new transformer and see if it gets me back in business.

[Diggsy]

Guys, just a bit of an update. Got the new transformer and installed it, but still no dice

The monitor still has the 2 seconds to black issue, so not sure what to try next.

[selldoor]

It really only seems to leave the ccfls and wiring but it could be other things.
Do you have any spare ccfls or a spare panel or another monitor that you can
use to test the panel?

We can help a lot more if you please post good clear pictures of the whole chassis, and then pictures of each board, front and back and close up of connectors, (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) using the manage attachments button, which is found by clicking "go advanced" under quick reply.

Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

Examples of what is needed
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...1&d=1290283049

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachm...7&d=1280167246

[Diggsy]

Thanks for the response. I am going to get a multi-meter and test the new transformer to make sure its not a dud.

With regards the CCFL's, I don't have any spare, but I did try plugging them in independantly and swapping them over in the board, but it displayed the same symptoms each time.

I will get some pics up over the next few days as the panel is back together again at the moment.

[selldoor]

Originally Posted by Diggsy

Thanks for the response. I am going to get a multi-meter and test the new transformer to make sure its not a dud.

Did you test the one you replaced or could you see it was duff?

With regards the CCFL's, I don't have any spare, but I did try plugging them in independantly and swapping them over in the board, but it displayed the same symptoms each time.

That is the expected result when trying one at a time - its only a basic test to see if one doesnt flash at all. You should also try the same one in all 4 sockets to see if any one socket doesnt make it flash.

[Diggsy]

Thanks again for the help. I just replaced it as that was what was a suggested option - I know, I should've tested it but I just assumed it would get me going again.

As for the CCFL's, from what I can see my screen only has 2 (one top, one bottom) with a pink wire and blue wire running to each, which both terminate in 2 seperate plastic connector blocks on the board.

I take it I have to wire these correctly, as in pink and blue together in one block? Surely they are not individual wires for individual CCFL tubes?

[selldoor]

20 inch screens often have 4 leads. Hard (impossible) to tell for certain without a picture last one I worked did ,but yes one pair for each lamp. So try one lead in each socket and see it flashes on both sockets.

When we see what transformer you have we can advise on how to test it.

[Diggsy]

Just as a bit of an update, I decided to pull the monitor further apart as I was convinced there had to be something else wrong. It seems I was right as at least 2 of the CCFL tubes were defective.

Going to order some replacements and see if I can get it up and running. If I can I will try to take some good images of the process and post them up.

[Diggsy]

Sorry again for the lengthy delay responding, but to put some closure to this, I got the CCFL tubes and I am currently using the screen

There is a little snag though... (isn't there always) I overtightened the 3 screws at the back of the casing (didn't realise initially) and during the night my screen cracked in the lower left hand corner

Luckilly it was only 10mm in and 20mm up, so I was able to adjust resolution to suit and have taped off the damaged area. It's not perfect, but at least I now have a working screen again, and I've learnt a lot in the process.