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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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I just want to know before I post some pics.
The board simply does not turn on at all. The 19Volts is healthy at the input, so there is no short to ground, but still nothing. I looked for voltages on the ribbon going to the power switch board, and there is nothing. Someone had apparently spilled some sort of fluid on this one. I got off most of the gunk with alcohol, but it still does nothing. I know it's a long shot, but I just wanted to see if someone had an idea of which components I should look at first..... Thanks for reading |
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#2 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Ok, here are some pics big enough to see component
markers: ![]() ![]() I was able to trace the +19V to the 3.3 Ohm resistors, PR43 and PR40 (to the right edge of large fan opening), but it appeared to stop at that point. Again, there were no significant voltages on the ribbon going to the power/On-Off board, just some 0.4 Volts here and there, and again, nothing happens when I press the ON button. I know it's a long shot, but if someone has any ideas of where to look next, it would be much appreciated. |
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#3 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2007
City & State: Michigan
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 916
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Measure voltage at the on/off button. One of the pins will change from 3.3v to 0v when the power button is pushed.
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#4 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
measured about 0.3 V, so that's probably what should be +3.3V. I traced it to the motherboard, but I couldn't find what components it leads to. Needle in Haystack without a schematic..... |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
City & State: Bijelo Polje
My Country: Montenegro
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 51
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#6 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
Thanks, that's a huge help, even though it doesn't exactly match my board, component ID wise, which shouldn't surprise any of the engineers out there. But I was missing the +3VALW, which is +3.3V always on, which is what the on/off switch shorts to ground. According to the schematic, it's generated by this: http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/...n64/fn6418.pdf So I found this IC on my board, and it indeed was attached to the switch, but it was missing the reference voltage, which ranges from +5.5 to +25V. It should have been safe to jumper the +19V input voltage to this chip, but when I tried it, the IC started smoking! Damn! The chip is supposed to be always on! Oh well, I'm gonna end up parting this laptop out.....the LCD screen display and housing is gonna fetch $80 alone! Thanks for the input anyways.....Remember that research and curiosity are NEVER in vain! |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
City & State: Bijelo Polje
My Country: Montenegro
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 51
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try to replace chip first if you have it on some old board. also chek on schematics which are pins for input voltages and if there is volatge that should be. if there is no input V trace it to where it should come from.
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#8 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
I don't have a hot-air rework station. And I only have one other old board, and it doesn't have the same chip. According to the schematic, the input voltage should come from either the battery or the AC adaptor's +19V, which makes sense because it's outputting the "always on" voltages. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 120
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Paul, the problem all along was the intersil PWM IC. A common problem in this series of Acer. Replace that and you *would* have been fine however now there may be more damage.
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#10 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
Oh no, another "know-it-all" personality, who doesn't know what he's talking about! This had nothing to do with pulse width modulation. Look at the schematic, and there are "always on" voltages. Both the +3.3V and the +5V always on weren't there, so the computer could not be turned on. |
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#11 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 13,605
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PWM often drives a buck converter to generate 3.3V and 5V supplies... (so called always on supplies.)
__________________
** Begin Signature ** I fix TVs and electronics as a hobby and to save nice things from the dump. 40 LCD TVs, 4 monitors, 13 plasma TVs, and a 6.1 system! Free service manuals database: http://www.tgohome.com/ServiceManuals - Have a manual? Need a manual? Please PM me. I have successfully fixed (from best --> worst build quality): 3 Panasonic Plasmas, 1 Yamaha HTS, 1 NEC Plasma, 2 Sharp LCDs, 2 Toshiba LCDs, 5 Philips Plasma/LCD, 1 Hitachi Plasma, 5 LG LCD/Plasma, 10 Samsung LCD/Plasma, 1 Thomson Plasma, 1 Atec LCD, 1 Hanspree LCD, 1 Xerox LCD, 1 Harwa LCD, 2 Proview LCD, 2 Hyundai LCD, 1 "Onn" LCD, 1 Dell LCD, 1 iiyama LCD, 1 Logik LCD, 5 Bush LCD, 10 Vestel LCDs [Please do not PM me for help: I am a busy student, and we prefer input from all sides on this forum.] |
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#12 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
fixed +3.3 and +5Volts: http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/...n64/fn6418.pdf If this chip is for the "always on" voltages, why wasn't the +19V at the Vin? Perhaps because the chip itself had Vin shorted to ground, and burned out the trace. |
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#13 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: University of Leeds (MEng ElecEng undergrad)
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 13,605
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No idea - there's a reason I don't work on laptops often.
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 120
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Quote:
Last edited by mattbrad2; 05-22-2012 at 09:29 PM.. |
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#15 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,004
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"The datasheet says it's a linear regulator for the
fixed +3.3 and +5Volts: http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/...n64/fn6418.pdf From the Data sheet you provided: page1 "The ISL6237 dual step-down, switch-mode power-supply (SMPS) controller generates logic-supply voltages in battery-powered systems. The ISL6237 includes two pulse-width modulation (PWM) controllers, 5V/3.3V and 1.5V/1.05V. The output of SMPS1 can also be adjusted from 0.7V to 5.5V. The SMPS2 output can be adjusted from 0.5V to 2.5V by setting REFIN2 voltage. This device features a linear regulator providing 3.3V/5V, or adjustable from 0.7V to 4.5V output via LDOREFIN. The linear regulator provides up to 100mA output current with automatic linear-regulator bootstrapping to the BYP input. When in switchover, the LDO output can source up to 200mA. The ISL6237 includes on-board power-up sequencing, power-good (POK_) outputs, digital soft-start, and internal soft-stop output discharge that prevents negative voltages on shutdown. Constant on-time PWM control scheme operates without sense resistors and provides 100ns response to load transients while maintaining a relatively constant switching frequency. The unique ultrasonic pulse-skipping mode maintains the switching frequency above 25kHz, which eliminates noise in audio applications. Other features include pulse skipping, which maximizes efficiency in light-load applications, and fixed-frequency PWM mode, which reduces RF interference in sensitive applications."
__________________
Never stop learning or per Greek Pro "when you will update your ID from Knowledge Seeker to a Pro (in 10 years) , then I will take you more seriously, for now you are just a kid playing with it keyboard" Baisc LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#16 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
Thanks for repeating what I just posted earlier! Did you even read the schematic? Page 5 and 33 show how this chip supplies the +3.3V to the power switch. And you are wrong about replacing the chip and I would have been fine, because the +19V wasn't even present. It should always be present, if this chip is "always on". So at the least, I would have had to install a jumper to the +19V. If anything, the trace may have acted as a fuse, and prevented the IC from smoking the way it did when I jumpered it, but the chip was certainly bad. Last edited by Paul678; 05-23-2012 at 04:58 AM.. |
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#17 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
"This device features a linear regulator providing 3.3V/5V, or adjustable from 0.7V to 4.5V output via LDOREFIN. The linear regulator provides up to 100mA output current with automatic linear-regulator bootstrapping to the BYP input. " |
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#18 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,004
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There is only ONE LDO output with very limited current output, it can be set to output 5V or 3.3V.
See page 23 for typical setup for TWO output supplies 3.3V AND 5V for always on power supply. So look at the board and see if the IC is hooked close to as shown in the app notes. |
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#19 | |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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Quote:
It turns out there is no B+ anywhere on this board, so this chip was NOT the problem. There's a good reason I don't trust people who say they are 100% sure they know the problem..... Nevertheless, thanks to Nucleus for the excellent schematic! Do you really live in this tiny little town? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bijelo_Polje Last edited by Paul678; 05-24-2012 at 05:34 AM.. |
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#20 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7,004
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So on page 38 of the service manual where the ALWAYS ON 3.3V and 5V which are generated by the TWO SMPS you are not getting B+ at jumper PJ17?
You also do not have VIN on page 38 from the DC input jack PJP1? Page 40: B+ comes from MOSFET switches PQ7, PQ8 which are turn on (PIN 4 ACDRV will go low when ACDET sees the VIN from AC adapter) when the ACDET PIN 5 of PU4 Power control IC sees VIN. Last edited by budm; 05-24-2012 at 08:54 AM.. |
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