Gateway LP2407 Power Board.

[stegt]

Hi, I have got a gateway LP2407 monitor and the power supply board is burnt and dead.

Are there any alternative power boards that will work in a gateway 24 inch monitor LP2407.

[FIXITNOW]

replace thes caps use good low esr caps panasonic fm range should do
C864 35v 470uF bulged
C863 35v 470uF
C862 35v 470uF
C867 10v 1000uF
C868 10v 1000uF
C869 10v 1000uF bulged
C870 10v 1000uF bulged
C865 25v 1000uF bulged
C884 25v 680uF bulged
C866 25v 470uF
C857 50v 47uF
C876 50v 10uF

[stegt]

I have got 1 or so bulged caps. I'll replace them but there is burn marks on the power board itself. Burn Marks are circled in red. Although there is no power to the monitor. Please help.

[retiredcaps]

1) Use some isopropyl alcohol to clean off all those smoke/carbon stuff. Sometimes the damage looks worse than it really is.

2) After you clean it, upload another photo of the board.

3) Clean the backside too and after cleaning it, upload a picture as well.

4) Do you have a multimeter? Are you experienced at using it?

5) What is the history of this monitor? Power surge? Liquid spill?

[stegt]

Yes, I do have some experience using a multimeter. I don't know the history of the monitor. I bought the monitor off someone who says it may work or be sold as parts. I guess they used it for some time and the power board started to burn out and stop working. I'll upload the pic a bit later.

Is the board still repairable?? By the looks of it, the power transformer and some resistors are burnt out.

If not what other alternative or similar power board that will work for a Gateway LP2407 monitor. I am in UK. Trying to find a power board for it...very rare to find one.

[PlainBill]

The board could still be repairable. The burnt resistor is nothing to worry about - it can ceasily be replaced. The burn mark on the board is strange - there is no obvious cause. A picture of the back side of the power supply would be a big help in making an intelligent decision. After all, what do you have to lose?

PlainBill

[dumpystig]

Looking at the silkscreen rectangle and the glue within I reckon the (now) vertical cap is a replacement for the original that was horizontal and flat to the board - that would explain the burn on the board and the scorched resistor (which probably isn't damaged) due to the cap doing a nice fizzle.

Edit - In fact from what I can see the cap doesn't look as though it's physically big enough to replace the original, at least judging by the amount of glue and the silkscreen footprint, so may even be a different/incorrect value.

[stegt]

I bent the cap straight to show you the burn mark damage on the board. The cap is the right value. I'm guessing its the transformer that looks burnt. I couldn't clean the burn marks off. I tried using Isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Only managed to clean off a bit. Still showing shiny burn mark on board.

I used my samsung phone to take pics.

[retiredcaps]

Well if you have a mulitmeter, you can test the following:

1) fuse (red). A good fuse should measure less than 1.0 ohms.

2) resistors (yellow) that were "burned". Read the color code and see if the resistor reading matches.

3) bridge rectifier (green) - see if it is shorted.

4) power mosfet (orange) - see if it is shorted.

5) I see one bad cap at C854. Was this replaced? There may be others that are bad underneath all that black plastic?

[stegt]

The resistors (yellow) does not show any value. The outside resistors on the board are working. I don't know how to test blue ones with color code.

I don't know what the resistor value for the pink resistor circled in yellow. looks toasted really. can't tell what color band it is.

The bridge rectifier is showing 0.10 - 0.12 on 20v DC test.

The power mosfet also doesn't show value.

Yes, I need to replace that C854 Cap.

The fuse is showing 0.89 - 0.90 amps

I have removed the black plastic with metal plates on top covering the rest of the board.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by stegt

The resistors (yellow) does not show any value. The outside resistors on the board are working. I don't know how to test blue ones with color code.

Color code chart at

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electro...de#Color_bands

The bridge rectifier is showing 0.10 - 0.12 on 20v DC test.

The power mosfet also doesn't show value.

The fuse is showing 0.89 - 0.90 amps

1) Test the bridge rectifier by numbering the pins 1,2,3, and 4. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, 2-4, and 3-4. Any reading under 30 ohms suggests a short and the component should be desoldered and retest out of circuit.

2) Test the power mosfet by numbering the pins 1,2, and 3. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3.

3) A good fuse should measure less than 1.0ohms.

[stegt]

The power mosfet is getting about 8.30 ohms on each pin resistance.

The Fuse,I cannot test the fuse in ohms. not showing value.

The brodge rectfier is showing with diode test
pins 1-4 =1595
pins 2-4 = 717
pins 3-4 = 713
pins 2-3 = no value

looks like somehow, just not powering the whole board.

Those blue resistor are working too.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by stegt

The power mosfet is getting about 8.30 ohms on each pin resistance.

It is 8.30 ohms, it needs to be desoldered and verified out of circuit.

The Fuse,I cannot test the fuse in ohms. not showing value.

Sigh, a multimeter always gives a reading. If it shows "1" on the left hand side, it is telling you that the fuse is measuring out of range or infinity for your chosen ohm setting. So if you have it on 200 ohms, the fuse is reading greater than 200 ohms -> bad.

The brodge rectfier is showing with diode test
pins 1-4 =1595
pins 2-4 = 717
pins 3-4 = 713
pins 2-3 = no value

looks like somehow, just not powering the whole board.

Those blue resistor are working too.

Again, "no value" means out of range.

[stegt]

The fuse is bad. measurung over 200 ohms, about 391 - 600 ohms. I tried 200ohms but out of range.

The bridge rectifier pins 2-3 has no reading at all. just the other pins that works.

would this mean I have to replace every component that is shorted and burnt out.

The 2 burnt resistors, I don't know the color of them as they just look burnt.

[ryszardx]

Stegt - I am curious on how you made out with your power board. I have an identical board that also has issues.

[veryxcit]

Bumpity bump bump

Well I have a FPD2485W, but the power supply looks almost identical (if not identical) with this model. I know there is a thread on the FPD2485W already and will try to get their opinion on this as well.

My dad is replacing the caps on the board already because they don't look so good However ... in position D851 (between the big heatsinks things with rubber on top, in that corner) there is a part that I can't identify because its sort of burnt. We'll see if my old man can ID it and perhaps replace it. Not sure what sort of part it is either, but it must've gotten really hot because it looks bad and the board around it burned. I think this happened a while ago because there is virtually no electronics burned smell.

Anyway if any of you could shed some light I would greatly appreciate it. Even if you tell me I can find a schematic on Google I won't be mad .. if its out there I'll try to find it.

[killian6pk]

Originally Posted by veryxcit

Bumpity bump bump

Well I have a FPD2485W, but the power supply looks almost identical (if not identical) with this model. I know there is a thread on the FPD2485W already and will try to get their opinion on this as well.

My dad is replacing the caps on the board already because they don't look so good However ... in position D851 (between the big heatsinks things with rubber on top, in that corner) there is a part that I can't identify because its sort of burnt. We'll see if my old man can ID it and perhaps replace it. Not sure what sort of part it is either, but it must've gotten really hot because it looks bad and the board around it burned. I think this happened a while ago because there is virtually no electronics burned smell.

Anyway if any of you could shed some light I would greatly appreciate it. Even if you tell me I can find a schematic on Google I won't be mad .. if its out there I'll try to find it.

The component at D851 is probably a Schottky diode which is two diodes in side the plastic case. On that plastic case there will be number. Get that number and report back here. Also take good clear pictures so that we can see what is written on the board. Take top and bottom. Make sure you are replacing the caps with low ESR caps of same uf and voltage. Panasonic FM or FC or you can get other good brands if you are in the States from TopCat's store listed at the top of the Forum Home Page. Also tell us what experience you and your father have with electronics. Do you own a mulit-meter and soldering equipment? That type of thing. Lastly it might be best to start your own thread on this Monitor. You might have the same problems and then again they might be different.

[veryxcit]

Originally Posted by killian6pk

The component at D851 is probably a Schottky diode which is two diodes in side the plastic case. On that plastic case there will be number. Get that number and report back here. Also take good clear pictures so that we can see what is written on the board. Take top and bottom. Make sure you are replacing the caps with low ESR caps of same uf and voltage. Panasonic FM or FC or you can get other good brands if you are in the States from TopCat's store listed at the top of the Forum Home Page. Also tell us what experience you and your father have with electronics. Do you own a mulit-meter and soldering equipment? That type of thing. Lastly it might be best to start your own thread on this Monitor. You might have the same problems and then again they might be different.

Thanks for your reply! I may start a new thread if we can't ID the part correctly -- that's probably a good idea because most people seem to have cap issues alone.

Judging from other pics I've seen, hires ones, is says R30(..) on the component. I can't ID the one on my board because its completely burned up, its brown and brittle ... I'm surprised the monitor still works -- although its seen better days.

I do have Panassonic components to replace the crappy caps. My dad will be working on this by himself. He's an electrical engineer, he has many years experience with electronics, multimeters, oscilloscopes and soldering equipment. However ... I'm trying to do some due dilligence and see if I can ID the component from a schematic online or a friendly comment in this forum

I will pass your comment along about the diode. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electronics, but I know the basics, just barely can spell the diffent components

Anyway, I do appreciate the help because realistically ... there's really nowhere else to go.