Antec TruePower 430 recap need help

[retnuoc]

Hi, I am a newbie in badcaps.net
My Antec found serious voltage drop on 5v rail and after check most of secondary side fuhjjyu cap bulge, I have replace all of them (2*3300uF and 4*2200uF) by rubycon YXA 16 3300uF capacitor. because of bigger side of rubycon (12.5mm dia), I forced to expose leg of them but got cover with black selotape. After recap, it working fine. But i worry about accident short between capacitor leg. Can i replace them again by smaller value capacitor?cos i only found panasonic FC series 10v 1500uF and 6.3v 2200uF (10mm dia). is them suitable?

[Krankshaft]

I hope you replaced the 2 Fukyuu 1000uf 10 Volt caps near the rear exhaust fan too.

Yes Pana FCs will work fine I used them myself. Other members reduced the value of the 3300 uf caps to get (good caps) to fit I think those are for the 3.3V rail. They used 2200 uf if I remember correctly.

Unfortunately it seems that the board was designed around the diameters of bad caps. They only other company who makes them at that value and diameter is OST and they are just a notch up from Fukyuu. No good brand makes 3300 uf in that diameter (probably because of design and reliability limitations).

As for the caps don't worry I had to do some squeezing and leg bending too. I kept the original values.

I bet you had a nice time getting that fourth board screw in too right ?

But I have 4 of these supplies in service now around my house and every last one of them is rock solid. The computer I'm using now is running an Antec SP 2.0.

[Leopard]

IIRC Rubycon YXA is a general purpose series. They'll probably do fine in PSUs but I recommend using some low-ESR capacitor series. (Like those Panasonic FCs)

[TahoeEd]

I just recapped a True380S, which is probably very similar.

For the Four 3300 uF 10V 10x32mm caps I used Nichicon HZ 3300 uF 6.3V 10x25. My choice was to drop the voltage to 6.3V and keep the 10mm diameter so it would fit.

For the two 2200 uF 16V 10x32mm caps, I couldn't drop the voltage. So I used two Nichicon HZ 1800 uF 16V 10x25mm caps. I had to drop the capacitance to 1800 uF in order to keep the size and voltage.

The HZ is a low-ESR cap, but only with a rated endurance of 2000 hrs @ 105C. Perhaps not the most durable choice for a power supply, but its a good cap and it fits.

If you've got it all put together and working, and the legs aren't likely to touch each other, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're worried some good bumping & knocking could cause them to touch, then, yes, get in there and make it safe.

[Krankshaft]

The caps in mine are packed like sardines they're not moving anywhere.

If you really want to insulate the leads just shoot some hot glue down there. Assuming some of the caps are a few MMs off the board due to size.

It will insulate the leads and act as a base for the caps so they won't move.

I didn't know the Ruby's you used were GP I don't use Rubies so I don't know their series by heart. I use Panasonic almost exclusively.

Mainly because I got used to them have a good source for them (have a load of them on hand) and have no reason to change brands .

[retnuoc]

Originally Posted by Krankshaft

I hope you replaced the 2 Fukyuu 1000uf 10 Volt caps near the rear exhaust fan too.

Yes Pana FCs will work fine I used them myself. Other members reduced the value of the 3300 uf caps to get (good caps) to fit I think those are for the 3.3V rail. They used 2200 uf if I remember correctly.

Unfortunately it seems that the board was designed around the diameters of bad caps. They only other company who makes them at that value and diameter is OST and they are just a notch up from Fukyuu. No good brand makes 3300 uf in that diameter (probably because of design and reliability limitations).

As for the caps don't worry I had to do some squeezing and leg bending too. I kept the original values.

I bet you had a nice time getting that fourth board screw in too right ?

But I have 4 of these supplies in service now around my house and every last one of them is rock solid. The computer I'm using now is running an Antec SP 2.0.

Thanks for comments from all of yours I didn't change the 2 1000uF capacitor seem they look fine currently. Maybe i will change it once i got good capacitor in hand.

In my opinion, using low capacitance filter capacitor is ok but the drawback is ripple voltage will be high at high load. Is it correct?

I can only find 6.3v 2200uF and 16v 1500uF FM/FC in Malaysia. If ok, i think i will order them from farnell/rs malaysia.

Btw, I bad news is my Smart Fan circuit inside the Antec seem like gone (the bottom side of pcb is short cos i move the fan connector). I hear small bomb sound and got smell come out. Luckily only smart fan circuit damage. After connect fan power to +12v, it works again but quite noisy...

[KeriJane]

Hi Retnuoc

I inherited one of these turkeys too!
Still, it seems well made except for those poor caps and lousy cooling.. Even though it trashed someone's hard drive and motherboard, it looks like it's worth fixing.

Blowed-up fuhijuu all over and those 3300's are hard to find. I put some 2200's in which work OK and I ordered up some of those HZ 3300s. I did replace all of the other secondary caps including the two 1000uf ones.

If you shorted out the fan controller board, you may want to examine the circuit traces very carefully. Some of them are very thin and apt to melt in two like a fuse, thus protecting the components. A touch of solder or a short jumper wire gets it going again. I fixed an original Neo480 (CWT built) like this.

One other thing about the ChannelWell-built TruePower Antecs with the 120mm fan..... There is a gap for where an 80mm fan might have gone between the board and the exit vent. This allows a lot of the air coming from the 120mm fan to bypass the circuit board entirely and just go in and out without cooling anything.

I borrowed a solution from Ultra... Just cut out some acetate sheet from a package of some kind (you know, the theft-deterrent impossible to open kind) and block off the third of the fan nearest the exit vent (rear) This directs more of the air over the actual heatsinks and caps. You can attach it with fan screws or hot glue.

Here's a neat little drawing I made:

Have Fun!
Keri

[PCBONEZ]

I use Samxon RS 3300uF to replace the 2700-4700 10mm JUNK in PSUs.
Come in both 16v and 10v in 10mm x 30mm.
Specs are close enough to the Fuhjyyu [claim] to not worry about over-kill/under-kill too much.
Badcaps.net sells them if you are in the US.
Don't actually like using Samxon but it's the only reliable source for those sizes I've found.

[acstech]

I used 4 3300uF 6.3v 10mm NHG Panasonic's to replace those 4 caps in my old TP430. It works fine as a testing PSU. I know they're general purpose, but they work. I figure they've got to be better than the Fuhjyyu's that were in there.

[PCBONEZ]

Two pennies with leads soldered on and a piece of cardboard taped between them would be better than Fuhjyyu's.

[kc8adu]

Originally Posted by PCBONEZ

Two pennies with leads soldered on and a piece of cardboard taped between them would be better than Fuhjyyu's.

ROFLOL!
sad but true!

[KeriJane]

Originally Posted by PCBONEZ

Two pennies with leads soldered on and a piece of cardboard taped between them would be better than Fuhjyyu's.

Is there ELECTROLYTE on that cardboard?

Oops! I DON'T want to know where that "electrolyte" came from!

You aren't related to Benjamin Franklin are you?

Have Fun!
Keri

[kc8adu]

would "electrolyte"produced while consuming beer work better?

[PCBONEZ]

Originally Posted by kc8adu

would "electrolyte"produced while consuming beer work better?

In Fuhjyyu? - Quite possibly.
But how you going to re-close the vent when you're done?

.

[KeriJane]

Hello.

Some thoughts on these durn Antec / Fuhjyyu specials:

I've got some Fuhjyyu TM series caps here and can't seem to find ANY sort of actual specifications such as ESR or Ripple Current on Fuhjyyu's website.

They only assert that the TM series is "Low ESR" and "High Ripple Current" without stating any actual specifications.

They DO state that the TM series has a life expectancy of 1,000 hours!

That is about how long these actually lasted!

Here's an idea I borrowed* from my Seasonic S12-600 which is so crammed full of United ChemiCon KZE and KY they had to do this to fit the last two in..... see drawing.

Have fun!
Keri
*- "Borrowed" means I'll bring it back when I'm done!

[PCBONEZ]

I thought about putting them on 4" leads and hanging them out the vent holes at one point.

Their stupid data sheets are gif files and BCN won't allow 566 x 774 gifs.
Resizing makes them unreadable.

What size you looking up?

.

[PCBONEZ]

Never mind.
Link still works here for TN and TM:
http://www.fuhjyyu.com.tw/pro.htm

[PCBONEZ]

http://www.fuhjyyu.com.tw/pro_tm-1.htm
http://www.fuhjyyu.com.tw/pro_tm-2.htm
http://www.fuhjyyu.com.tw/pro_tm-3.htm
http://www.fuhjyyu.com.tw/pro_tm-4.htm

Page 2 has size, 3 has ESR, 4 has ripple.
[Gezz, they can't even do a proper data sheet.]
.

[KeriJane]

Thank you PCBONEZ

According to those sheets, the Fuhjyyu TM is similar to Nichicon PW in ESR
but much lower in Ripple Current.

That Fraud of a 4700uf / 10v TM appears to have similar Ripple Current to a 2200uf / 10v Nichicon PW. Which is actually close in ESR too.

Which is the same physical size!

That's what they consider a "Low ESR / High Ripple" cap?


Now if only I knew exactly what I was talking about.
(still a bit ignorant of ESR/Ripple)

Have Fun,
Keri

[KeriJane]

Originally Posted by PCBONEZ

I thought about putting them on 4" leads and hanging them out the vent holes at one point.


.

LOL!

Hanging out the vent holes! Careful where you point those tiny Chinese Timebombs. Firecrackers?

Have Fun,
Keri