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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 15
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#2 |
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Slow Learner
Join Date: Dec 2010
City & State: Lancashire UK
Posts: 4,657
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Hi - Bigger photo might help. Presume there are no other markings on it.
A picture of the base might also help. Which model TS was it off and was there a designation on the board. Perhaps a pic of the area of the board it came off would help. |
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#3 |
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o.O
Join Date: Sep 2007
City & State: Duisburg
My Country: Germany
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
Posts: 2,616
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Judging by the tiny pic, it looks like an enclosed inductor/coil of some kind..
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#4 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 641
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Either an inductor or capacitor.
Post a picture of the area and the exact model of the laptop. |
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#5 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 15
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yea I finally got my camera working,,,so here's the photo of the area, (like my little red arrow? lol} this is a Toshiba L305-S5933 #PSLB8U-027025 It came to me Dead as a doornail.I spent about 3 hrs trying to figure out what the problem was. I noticed heat from the area around the power jack, and wished for the hundredth time that I had some type of thermal image device.... ![]() Anyway any help would be greatly appreciated, Pesti ] |
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#6 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,975
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Can you still be able to read the continuity between the two legs of this inductor? If you can, you can try solder it back on the PCB. This inductor is used for the switching power supply section.
As far as the DC input jack is concerned, you should remove the old solder and resolder real well at both top and bottom of the PCB, very common problem in laptop due to of mechanical support for the jack. |
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#7 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 641
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That's one of the inductors for either the system DC-DC or battery DC-DC. I can see the MOSFETs next to it.
The schematic for the L305 is floating around somewhere on the Internet, should be possible to find with some quick Googling. That'll show you exactly where to start looking for power. |
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#8 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 15
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Thank you both, do either of you know if I can pick one up from ebay?
Also.. I tried a while back to register at PC SCHEMATICS But the registrations closed for now :.( I'll keep looking.. |
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#9 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,975
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But did you try Ohming it out to see if it does not have open winding yet? A close up pictures will help.
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#10 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 15
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Found the schematic, I'm gonna ohm that right now....
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#11 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 15
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My camera sucks, well actually I'm an idiot when it comes to things I'm not interested in
and this POS camera (That's "piece of ****" lol) is one of them. I managed to get a decent close up of the board this am but now I can't seem to get the settings to the same place. It's an old Sony cyber shot, from like before Win xp, and it doesn't have an instruction manual it has an instruction "Novel" The settings arn't logical and I don't have the patience right now to figure it out again. Anyway, Here's the deal, The inductor looks like the black plastic base is chipped away, (I'm not sure if someone tweaked on this laptop before I got it, but I can tell you that half the screws were missing out of the base) and I can see part of the winding on one side if i put the probes on the 2 connector legs i get a reading...so... |
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#12 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 641
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It should have very low resistance if it's OK.
Just solder it back in and see if that works. If it doesn't, you can find the value on the schematic to go buy a new one. |
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#13 |
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Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,975
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I second that.
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