Best caps for a 1989 JVC?

[weirdlookinguy]

Someone gave me a very nice 1989 20" JVC TV a month ago. It's a very nice little set, the picture tube is very strong and the picture quality is amazing. Beats the living shit out of any tube TV you can buy nowadays, hard to believe it's still banging out great PQ after almost 20 years.

Anyway, when I was given this TV, it worked but it was making a very, very loud buzzing sound whenever it was on, it sounded like a small electric motor. Turns out it was a bad cap that was making a relay buzz like that. I swapped it and now the TV works great.

This TV is loaded with quality lytics, some Rubycon and Chemicon. However, after 20 years the lytics aren't doing so great. The screen regulation is terrible, bright objects bulge out and distort the rest of the picture. I want to swap out all the lytics in there (there aren't many), so I have 2 questions:

Should I only swap lytics with vents, or can the little ones go bad after 20 years too?

and

Can you guys recommend the best Panasonic series for this?

Pics of TV and chassis attached. The red arrow on the third pic shows the relay that was buzzing (the arrow is a little off, it's the relay marked 48MB).

[i4004]

"The screen regulation is terrible, bright objects bulge out and distort the rest of the picture."

once you're done recapping do report back if it solved the blooming issue.

smaller caps should deteriorate at a slower pace, yes.
i don't think in case of tvs its critical to have low esr caps.
but going with well known brand surely won't hurt.

jvc probably mostly has matsushita caps in there, right?

as a general answer to question "which ones to swap", i would answer "those that are failing".
to build or buy esr meter is not a big problem.

[RJARRRPCGP]

Originally Posted by i4004

"The screen regulation is terrible, bright objects bulge out and distort the rest of the picture."

That sounds like when there's over saturated color.

[weirdlookinguy]

Well red does seem a little oversaturated, but it's definitely not that. A commercial for Gamefly that used to play pretty often showed an LCD screen displaying it's website as part of the commercial. The border on the LCD bulged a ton, instead of being straight it bulged out in about 5 different spots. I'll open the set and get the list of large lytics in there.

I have an ESR/Capacitance meter but I'd rather just swap all the caps, breathe some new life into the set. It's very sturdy and well made, I'm sure with new caps I could get a few more years out of it.

Anyone know if the tube in it was actually made by JVC or was it rebadged? This is the only JVC I've seen with a JVC tube in it. The other two JVC's I saw had Hitachi and RCA tubes in them.

Set was made in USA, July 1989

[starfury1]

Well no TV tech here either I've fixed a few but the technology has changed a lot since my days of learning

usually the most likely areas of failure are PSU and EHT

Resistors have been known to go high, transistors leaky and caps are common failures

On caps
Id say Panasonic FC for the switcher but there was a case were low esr caused one DVD player psu to shut down....
(Cant recall what another forum member said about why it might have been so)

Another cap type thats is prone to failure are the Higher voltage electro's such as 160V 10uf etc...so they are good suspects to replace.

Id search on fault symptoms and brand model and see what falls out too as a lot of sets have common weak points that cause failure.

such as "motorboat" in sound etc (by pass caps might be an issue with that type of thing)

smaller caps in TV's considering most are probably crap can fail too just a bit less likely but its still quite possible

sometimes just fixing something thing will cure the symptom but not the fault and it soon reappears so searching may be able to nail what else you need to do to fully rectify the problem.

Caps are a good start (and hopefully end)

Id also look at solder joints especially on bolted transistors ic's transformers power resistors etc....as with time heat and cold these can fracture.

just a few starting points really.

HTH cheers

OH and BE VERY CAREFUL of the EHT section that part can still be DEADLY when no power and unplugged The large cap on the psu you can still give you a very nasty belt too so make sure its discharged....says the voice of experience!

[weirdlookinguy]

Actually, there's mostly Nippon Chemicon in there and a few Pannys. Here's the full list of lytics, including all the small unvented ones (will be replacing those too).

1 x 250V-10uf-Chemicon SME
1 x 10v-220uf-Chemicon SME
1 x 25V-2200uf-Chemicon SME
1 x 160V-35uf-???
1 x 350V-4.7uf-Chemicon SME
1 x 25V-1000uf-Chemicon SME
1 x 35V-2200uf-Chemicon SME
1 x 16V-220uf-Chemicon SME
4 x 50V-1uf-Chemicon SME
3 x 35V-100uf-Chemicon SME
4 x 16V-1000uf - Chemicon SE
1 x 6.3V-100uf-???
1 x 25v-470uf-Chemicon SME
2 x 16V-470uf-Chemicon SE
1 x 160V-100uf-Chemicon SME
1 x 25V-10uf-??? (has T-vent, blue sleeve, Panasonic?)
1 x 6.3V-47uf-Chemicon ??
3 x 16v-47uf-Chemicon ??
1 x 10V-100uf-Chemicon SME
2 x 16v-33uf-Chemicon SME
8 x 16V-10uf-Chemicon SME
2 x 50V-2.2uf-Chemicon SM-D
1 x 50V-10uf-Chemicon ??
10 x 50V-4.7uf-???
2 x 50V-0.47uf-???
1 x 50V-2.2uf-???
1 x 50V-1uf-???
1 x 50V-.47uf-???
1 x 50V-0.22uf-???

That's the complete list, mostly Chemicon SME. What's an equivalent Panasonic series?

[weirdlookinguy]

Forgot to mention on my last post, and I'm way past the expiration time - I mentioned there were a few Panasonic caps in there, there are three that have a T vent but no other marking to indicate it's panasonic, so I'm just going to assume they are Pannys. There was one lone Rubycon in there, that's the cap that really went south and was making the relay buzz.

[i4004]

"The border on the LCD bulged a ton, instead of being straight it bulged out in about 5 different spots. I'll open the set and get the list of large lytics in there. "

that sounds like tube failing(20 years is a lot) so it'll be interesting to hear if lytics help.

do you have a recording of that commercial so you can show us the effect it has on picture?


as for substitute, sme should be same as smg ( http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...03&postcount=3 ) and according to this
http://www.chemi-con.co.jp/english/c...aku_pic_e.html
it's "standard type" cap (nothing special about it) so replacement can be
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/...BA0000CE12.pdf
( from http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/...p_leadelec.htm )