Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

[technicalspecialist]

I was reading this and thought it might be relevant to the thread: http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7...ty-capacitors/

[impala454]

Yeah I saw that as well... too bad the monitors aren't included (as it seems they should be!).

Can someone please verify this is the correct mains cap? I saw about two whole pages of 450V 82uF caps on there :/
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...7426-ND/411686

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by impala454

Yeah I saw that as well... too bad the monitors aren't included (as it seems they should be!).

Can someone please verify this is the correct mains cap? I saw about two whole pages of 450V 82uF caps on there :/
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...7426-ND/411686

Probably not. Assuming the dimensions are correct and it takes a snap mount, this should be the correct one. Note that it's a 105°C vs the 85°C for the one you chose.

A quick way to locate a cap is to enter the value and voltage in the search box, hit Go, select Aluminum, then start elimination based on the parameters. Temperature and dimensions are two obvious ones, in stock and lead type are also important.

PlainBill

[impala454]

Ah ok, thanks. Yeah I did enter the value and voltage, and went aluminum. Just couldn't recall what temp the one on the board was (wanted to go ahead and order, and am at work and not in front of the board).

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by impala454

Ah ok, thanks. Yeah I did enter the value and voltage, and went aluminum. Just couldn't recall what temp the one on the board was (wanted to go ahead and order, and am at work and not in front of the board).

In general, you always want 105°C parts. This is a very compact power supply, heat is going to be a problem.

PlainBill

[Stebono]

I just fixed my PSU changing out all of the caps for this model and here are quality caps I used and worked perfectly for mine.

Samsung SyncMaster 245BW
========================

Power Supply Board assembly Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors
------------------------------------------------------------
(1) CP801S   82uF 450WV 105 C Panisonic-ECG EET-ED2W820CA
           (cap requires a hot iron with large tip)
(1) CB853  2200uF   10V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-FR1A222L
(1) CM857  1000uF   10V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-FR1A102L
(2) CM851  1000uF   35V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-FR1V102
    CM852
(1) CM855   470uF   35V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-FR1V471
(2) CP804    10uF   50V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-EB1H100S
    CM814
(1) CB805   2.2uF   50V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-EB1H2R2S
(1) CB804    22uF   50V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-EB1H220S
(3) CB809    47uF   50V 105 C Panisonic-ECG EEU-EB1H470S
    CB812
    CM806

[budm]

Bad resistors due to "bad glue" symptom are very common in this model.
I use Panasonic FM/FC series.

[jsog]

Those Panasonic EB series are general-purpose, not low ESR. The FC series is available in those values.

[impala454]

So I got the full replacement kit of caps, as well as the mains cap (separately). Once I got the mains cap in today I noticed in comparing it to the old one the old one was bulging quite a bit. So I just replaced the mains cap for now and that was it! Fixed right up!! Woo hoo!!!! And I still have the full kit for if/when I start losing the other caps. Thanks again everyone!

Oh and just to note, Bill, that cap you recommended was exactly the same specs but for some weird reason it was actually a bit smaller (pics below, the arrow is the before shot). Not sure why it was smaller, but it's working great so far, the monitor looks great!

[budm]

That large cap in the primary side, you can tell if it is filtering properly or not when it has heavy load by check the DC reading on the cap, if the 120VAC is the input voltage, you should see about 120 x 1.414 = 169VDC, when cap dries out and drop its value, the DC voltage will drop by 20VDC or more, and if you set your DMM in AC mode, you will see large AC voltage reading on the meter since there will be large AC ripple riding on top of the DC. This is just a basic test if you do not have an Oscilloscope to look at the amount of AC ripple on the cap.

[dbinokc]

The second of my three 245BW monitors went dead today. Same symptoms as before, blue light and no display. It will be interesting to see if it is the same resistor problem as before or something else. Will post results or ask for help if I get stuck.

[dbinokc]

The second failed monitor has been repaired and is running again. One of the 68 ohm resistors was open. I replaced all three. I inspected the caps and they all looked good. It was six months between the first monitor failing and this one. I wonder how long it will be before monitor number three fails.

[Denbo]

FYI!
I have a Samsung XL20 Model #LS20EDBEB/XAA . LCD 20" LED Backlight with a samsung Power supply # BN96-04024A.
Looks like the same supply as syncmaster 245B supply # bn44-00173. found that most of the components and reference designators are the same, good stuff.
And I was about to shell out $87 on a new supply. I don't think so.
Thanks!!

[budm]

@dbinokc, I fixed three of this model, with one open 68 Ohms resistor in all the the three I fixed, make sure to remove the bad brown glue from components and the boar traces.

[Kelso]

I just finished repaired my 245B with the help of reading this thread.
Love to all in this thread !

[Denbo]

Repaired the Power supply # BN96-04024A on a Samsung XL20 Model #LS20EDBEB/XAA . LCD 20" LED Backlight.
The problem was KIA431 ref ZDM851 on syncmaster 245B schematic (ZDS851 ref on the BN96-04024A ) , thanks goes to whoever drew that up.

[jetadm123]

Originally Posted by Denbo

Repaired the Power supply # BN96-04024A on a Samsung XL20 Model #LS20EDBEB/XAA . LCD 20" LED Backlight.
The problem was KIA431 ref ZDM851 on syncmaster 245B schematic (ZDS851 ref on the BN96-04024A ) , thanks goes to whoever drew that up.

Interesting...first time I've heard of the BN96-04024A used on a 245B. Also, good work on troubleshooting. It's not often a shunt regulator fails.

[nordhaus]

Hi Guys,

I've got the issue on my 245BW where my power button lights up, but no picture on the screen (totally black).

I am going to attempt the 14 cap replacement on my 245BW power board, but was wondering:

- Is there any kind of soldering iron that would be good for this job? (wattage, other specs?)

- Any particular brand or model of soldering iron? Thinking of a Weller analog, but wondering if that is overkill for this job? (I have a 20 year old Radio Shack soldering iron, and think its high time for a new one).

- What kind of solder should I be using, specifically for this job?

Many thanks for the great info and insights!

N~

[Nocta]

Weller 40w should be just fine. A ceramic heating element is vital.

Remember to use a sponge to clean your ceramic heater.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by nordhaus

I am going to attempt the 14 cap replacement on my 245BW power board, but was wondering:

Most lcd power boards are single layer so your old Radio Shack iron should suffice. Just make sure the tip is clean and shiny.

If you want to buy a new one, the Hakko FX-888 is very popular and I think it was on sale at Frys for $65.