Help with switching power supply caps

[captain150]

I'm trying to repair two old VCRs, they both have bad caps. One has leaky ones, the other would barely run until I subbed in some caps from another power supply I had laying around (though they are the wrong values). This vcr works for an hour or two, but then the power supply starts whining and the picture gets lines in it. I didn't replace all the secondary caps, so another voltage might still be problematic, or the values I used are too far off.
I've been on mouser and digikey but the options are a bit overwhelming. I just need some new ones that will work. They don't need to be top quality, but a recommended "series" would be helpful (eg Panasonic ? series or whatever). I can dig thru all the capacities and voltages I need, I just don't know what series is good for this application (low ESR and ripple current?) Thanks!

VCR 1:
Has "SMG" caps of the following;
6.3v1000uf
10v470uf
16v100uf
50v1uf
50v4.7uf
50v10uf
50v100uf

KMF caps:
10v2200uf
16v2200uf

200v150uf primary side

VCR 2:
YK caps:
6.3v470uf
6.3v1000uf
16v220uf
16v470uf
50v10uf

200v47uf PK cap primary side

[PeteS in CA]

These are fairly mature and have similar characteristics:

Nichicon PW series
United (Nippon) Chemicon LXZ series
Panasonic FC series

[captain150]

Awesome thank you so much! I'll order from those series. It's great this forum is still around, it helped me repair a Samsung monitor 15 or so years ago.

[CapLeaker]

I am using Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon to 99.9%. Temperature rated at 105c, and 10.000 hrs.

[sam_sam_sam]

You could use KY , KZE ( some of the low UF values are being discounted so not all value are available not to long ago I bought a bunch low UF values ones ( 1 to 56uf and a lot of the 1 , 2.2 , 3.3 , 4.7, 10 , 22 , 56 and a lot of the 47uf ) because of this development for my capacitor part bin for repairing switching power supplies ) , LXZ and some of there automotive grade ones as well from ( United (Nippon) Chemico ) this mostly what I use for switching power supplies

From time to time I also use some PW as we every once in while I will you some FC an some FR ones because of size and space availability on a circuit board but there price tends to be somewhat higher than the ones that I use the most

[PeteS in CA]

I've had very good experience with Nichicon HE, Chemicon KZE, Panasonic FM, and Rubycon ZL series, but those might be "too good" (too low impedance, possibly causing stability problems) in older VCRs.

[captain150]

Thanks all, I used Nichicon PW caps. I found them locally in fact. The one vcr with picture interference still has it, but only on tape playback (not on the blue screen). I suspect something wrong in the actual electronics in one of the circuits (ie the color or luma demodulation, or the composite output). I've kinda given up. VCR 1 has been fully recapped except the 200v primary side filter cap. It works great, except it also has interference. The interference is all the time, and is in 1-2 "bands" that very slowly move up the screen. They also dance a bit (ie get coarser) when the vcr is changing modes (ie when the loading motor is running). My suspicion is the filter cap is also bad, would you agree? The local shop didn't have the 200v cap so I'll have to order it. I added a picture of the lines. They look pretty fine in the picture, each band maybe has 20 or so lines. When the loading motor runs, there might only be 2 or 3 briefly.

[stj]

rectified mains electricity is twice the trequency of a tv vertical frame, so if the main filter is bad you will get rolling bands.

[captain150]

I may have messed up. I had thought all the low voltage caps were Nichicon PW series. But VCR 1 has;

Chemicon KZE for the 16v2200uf cap (the "too good" one).
Luxon SM series for the 50v1uf (actual new cap is 63v1uf).
Panasonic EB series for the 50v4.7uf (actual new is 63v4.7).
CDE CKH series for the 50v10uf.

The KZE is the most suspicious to me. The higher voltage ones I would expect are for the vacuum fluorescent display. The VCR is a Sony from the early 90s with a Mitsumi power supply. Since I'll have to order replacements for the primary filter anyway, the shipping cost will be the biggest cost. I may as well replace the KZE cap with a PW series as well right? Should I bother with the 50v caps or are they close enough and/or unlikely to be the problem?

[stj]

slightly higher voltage is fine.
as long as they still fit - check the diameter isnt bigger

[captain150]

Yeah I'm not so much worried about the voltage differences, more about the models/series of the new caps. I know the KZE is potentially problematic, but I've tried googling about the other 3 (Panasonic EB, Luxon SM and CDE CKH) and am not sure if those are considered unsuitable. I think the EB and CKH are low ESR, but the SM is a general purpose. Anyway I've finally decided to get a capacitor tester so I can stop guessing if caps are bad or not.

[stj]

i only know about panasonic and rubycon,
if you try to understand all brands it would take forever.
EB are short life crap for manufacturers - EE is the longlife version of it.
if you dont know what the parts do then using rubycon YXF is probably a good upgrade

[momaka]

Are you sure those "KZE" caps are not actually KME series?
As far as I know, KZE wasn't around in the 90's yet... not sure if even KY series were.
KME, on the other hand, was quite popular in 90's equipment that used Japanese caps. These are the non-lead-free version of KMG... or rather, KMG is the lead-free version of KME, which are now obsolete and haven't been produced for probably over 2 decades. Same goes for SME and SMG - the latter is the lead-free series that replaced the former, which also were popular in the 90's (85C general-purpose caps.)
So if your caps are KME, you can safely use KMG or any other general-purpose caps rated for 105C, like Nichicon VZ, Rubycon PX, and Panasonic NHG (possibly obsolete too.)

Better yet though, you can entry-level low ESR like Rubycon YXJ, YXS, and YXF as stj suggested. Nichicon recently also came up with some newer entry-level low ESR series, but I forgot what they were (UPA / PA??). Haven't kept up with Panasonic caps for a long time and only know the FC series as more or less being a slight step-up from entry-level low-ESR (though still more or less also considered entry-level low-ESR.)

All in all, being 90's equipment, I expect just about everything to be general-purpose ("standard") 85C or 105C caps (have seen very very few exceptions.) So you can really replace them with just about anything... though entry-level low-ESR would be fine too, if not slightly better. I'd venture and say anything up to UCC KY / Nichicon HE / Rubycon YXG / Panasonic FK spec would be acceptable. Beyond that, the ESR may (in very rare cases) introduce problems with some PSU circuits.

[captain150]

Sorry I may not be clear. The original (90s) capacitors are listed in my original post for VCR1. The two caps in question were KMF caps. One was replaced with a Nichicon PW, the other was replaced with a Chemicon KZE...it's what the local shop had in stock. I ordered another Nichicon PW to replace the (new) KZE, since a previous comment mentioned potential problems with the KZE being such low ESR. These two caps (2200uf) I think are the final filtering caps for the 5v and 12 v rails, and the new KZE cap is on the 12v rail and that's where I think I'm getting the interference (which changes based on the loading motor operation...also 12v).

The other thing I mentioned that I am wondering about is the primary filter. I actually have three VCRs from the same early 90s era; 2 are identical Sonys (with new caps aside from the primary filter), and 1 is a Toshiba (with original caps). All three of them show similar interference bands, but my newer (post 2000s) VCRs do not. The interference also goes away when I run the signal through my Samsung DVD recorder, which must do some sort of clean up (maybe even line TBC?) on the signal. Thus it's highly likely the Sonys had the exact same interference before I even changed any of the caps since I usually run thru the DVD recorder. As I said they were working, they just had leaking caps so I decided to recap the PSUs. If it's still there after replacing the KZE cap I will just call it good, I'm not up for recapping the rest of the VCR. They are all standard VHS hifi so not worth much, they just have sentimental value for me.

[momaka]

Ah, OK, sorry about the confusion on my part.

Well, given the symptoms (slight interference rolling lines) and the fact that you can make them go away when passing the signal through another device (DVD decoder) and that all of the VCRs exhibit it, perhaps might suggest that the units that show the interference might be more susceptible to line noise than the latter 2000's VCR that doesn't have this issue. Either that or perhaps the analog cables are poorly shielded, but the 2000's VCR might have some kind of extra filtering on the signal lines, clearing that interference up, whereas the older units might not.
So if you haven't tried it already, see if new/different (and good quality) cables resolve the issue.
I just highly doubt that the KZE caps are causing the issues, or even more that all of the older units have failed primary caps. Sure, it's possible... but I just think it's unlikely.
Maybe just change the KZE cap(s) and input cap on one of these units, and if nothing improves, then don't bother with the rest, like you planned. That should save you some time of taking the rest of the units apart and recapping them a 2nd time possibly unnecessarily.

[captain150]

Likely my final update. New filter cap, no change. Replace KZE with PW, no change. So maybe I just have some sort of interference in my house (far more switching power supplies these days VS the early 90s) that the 2000s vcrs are better at dealing with like you said. I might try feeding the Sony's signal through one of the newer VCRs and seeing if anything changes. I know for a fact it won't have any kind of TBC or fancy signal processing.