best cheap/free scores 1.1

[Topcat]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

You might want to try a "dry run" before you go rearranging kit and cables.

I found that I had to do a lot of neck-twisting to see three 30's at a comfortable viewing distance -- old eyes don't refocus as readily to changes in distance between the monitor directly ahead and the monitors off to either side. So, I had to arrange the monitors in a semicircle around me to keep them all equidistant from my eyes. This meant turning my head from one side to the other to see whichever monitor I was interested in.

[If I moved them farther away to reduce the neck-twisting, then it was hard to focus on the smaller details in the images]

Even three 27's proved difficult. Though if I mounted 30's (or 27's) in portrait mode, the span from left to right was "doable" - but the monitors looked really funky in that orientation!

I found two 30's, side by side (landscape), was about the limit for that size monitor. But, I couldn't stack two more atop the first pair (for a 2x2 display) without having a similar problem with up-and-down head motion.

I finally settled on four 24's in a 2x2 configuration -- I can largely keep my head motionless and just move my eyes to take in what I want to see. And, can keep the monitors at a comfortable viewing distance.

The 3x 27's (Dell 2709W's) are a joy, very little neck twisting....and in 1920x1200, things are big and easy to see. The 30's are 2560x1600, are very clear & easy to see, I have 2 in operation elsewhere in my fleet. My eyes are good, but the problem will be fitment on my desk....I have a big desk in a big office, so the issue isn't lack of room, but rather arrangement. The 27's consume a footprint 71" wide across the desk with a subtle angle of the side monitors. The 30's will increase that span by 6" overall (by each monitor's width), so to fit correctly, I'd have to increase the angle of the side monitors, which there is room for width-wise, but depth will then become an issue...as the center monitor's stand is half way off the back of the desk as it is (they're front heavy, it doesn't want to fall). I'd actually have to design some kind of extension of the desk......but like you said, it's somethging I'll have to diddle around with..... I won't be parting with my 27's, just incase....but if you know much about the 2709W, they had their demons....they have vertical stripes (tab bond issues), 2 of the 3 do this.....the stripes go away when they warm up, but I'm sure their days are numbered....as many things I can fix with my experience, bad tab bonds has never been one.

[Curious.George]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

The 3x 27's (Dell 2709W's) are a joy, very little neck twisting....and in 1920x1200, things are big and easy to see.

Yes, I run my 24's at 1920x1200 -- and my 22's (which are almost easier for me to use as they span a narrower width/height than the 24's). You, no doubt, have better ision than me as I have a "sweet spot" beyond which things blur, quickly. So, I have to position the screens at that distance from my eyes if I want to be able to read them easily. As such, if I want more "width" (or height), then it means more head twisting/lifting.

The 30's are 2560x1600, are very clear & easy to see, I have 2 in operation elsewhere in my fleet.

I use the 30's on my multimedia workstation -- I create CGI video with "live video" underlays (sort of like the weather reports on TV). So, I use one screen to view the "product" and another with all the controls to author it.

My eyes are good, but the problem will be fitment on my desk....I have a big desk in a big office, so the issue isn't lack of room, but rather arrangement. The 27's consume a footprint 71" wide across the desk with a subtle angle of the side monitors. The 30's will increase that span by 6" overall (by each monitor's width), so to fit correctly, I'd have to increase the angle of the side monitors, which there is room for width-wise, but depth will then become an issue...as the center monitor's stand is half way off the back of the desk as it is (they're front heavy, it doesn't want to fall).

My 30's eat up ~54" while the 24's clock in at about 44 (and the 22's at just 40). I try to stay in the ~48" ballpark though I have 34x80 (benches are made from solid-core doors) available for each workstation (I want/need the remaining space for larger items that also want desk space -- B size scanners, UniSite, etc.).

I can't go "deeper" without having problems seeing their content and wider gives me the head-twist issue. So, I'm pretty much maxed out, "as is".

[OTOH, if I spin my chair 90 degrees to either side, the 4 monitors from the other workstations are visible!]

I'd actually have to design some kind of extension of the desk......but like you said, it's somethging I'll have to diddle around with.....

In my case, the monitors are on "stands" so you move all four at the same time!


This is not something you do lightly! And, because they're all tied together mechanically, in this way, it's a PITA to alter the cabling once you've got things in place! (I tie at least two PC's to each set of 4 monitors so that's 4 power cords, 4 video A cords and 4 video B cords)

I won't be parting with my 27's, just incase....but if you know much about the 2709W, they had their demons....they have vertical stripes (tab bond issues), 2 of the 3 do this.....the stripes go away when they warm up, but I'm sure their days are numbered....as many things I can fix with my experience, bad tab bonds has never been one.

I usually just mess with power supplies. The 24's were a laughable "gift" in that their only problem was bad power switches! So, I've got another set of 4 hiding in my bedroom when/if any of the first set sh*t the bed!

[Dan81]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Scored another free PS3, this time it's an CECH-2504A 0C slim version. Works fine but the bluray drive is kaput. No biggie since I am using Rebug REX NoBD firmware which eliminates the need for a bluray drive.

[Topcat]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Picked up an Abit VL6 for $10 (single socket370 P3, AGP, VIA 694 chipset)....caps bloated as bad as me after a meal @ taco hell....but I couldn't bear to see a classic Abit board end up in the shredder. Even after I restored it, it's probably not worth much more than $10 I gave for it....but I'm a softie for this stuff.

[Sparkey55]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Picked up an Abit VL6 for $10 (single socket370 P3, AGP, VIA 694 chipset)....caps bloated as bad as me after a meal @ taco hell....but I couldn't bear to see a classic Abit board end up in the shredder. Even after I restored it, it's probably not worth much more than $10 I gave for it....but I'm a softie for this stuff.

I think if it is a 694T chip it might run a Tualatin.

[Topcat]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

I think if it is a 694T chip it might run a Tualatin.

It's not, its too old for that. Mendocino & coppermine only. After recapping it (wouldn't POST prior to recapping), I discovered it still had the first release BIOS on it...and wouldn't even run a coppermine correctly (1000/133fsb, which wasn't even out at the time this was made). I had to stick a mendocino in it, update the BIOS, and then the coppermine ran fine.

[Sparkey55]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

It's not, its too old for that. Mendocino & coppermine only. After recapping it (wouldn't POST prior to recapping), I discovered it still had the first release BIOS on it...and wouldn't even run a coppermine correctly (1000/133fsb, which wasn't even out at the time this was made). I had to stick a mendocino in it, update the BIOS, and then the coppermine ran fine.

That is one of the reasons why I keep a few old Celerons and other low end CPUs around for Socket 370 boards. Also i ran into a Intel 370 board that will take the 1400 server Tualatin, the U board version on Ebay for about $40 but looking close at it the middle plastic socket tab is broken off the CPU socket.

[Topcat]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Also i ran into a Intel 370 board that will take the 1400 server Tualatin, the U board version on Ebay for about $40 but looking close at it the middle plastic socket tab is broken off the CPU socket.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/263791377076

That's the fix for this. This heatsink latches onto the bigger tab on the side of the socket 370. This won't work with a coppermine with an exposed die, as it doesn't apply the pressure correctly to the tiny die if the center tab is missing/broken...however it works great for coppermines with the big fat heat spreader, same with a Tualatin, which employs the same heatspreader. I had a VP6 exactly like this. I used a pair of coppermines with heat spreaders and these heatsinks. The board is still in operation.

[Sparkey55]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/263791377076

That's the fix for this. This heatsink latches onto the bigger tab on the side of the socket 370. This won't work with a coppermine with an exposed die, as it doesn't apply the pressure correctly to the tiny die if the center tab is missing/broken...however it works great for coppermines with the big fat heat spreader, same with a Tualatin, which employs the same heatspreader. I had a VP6 exactly like this. I used a pair of coppermines with heat spreaders and these heatsinks. The board is still in operation.

Yes I have done that too. When looking for heatsinks Socket A or 370 I usually pick the 3 tab kind because of less strain on those mounting tabs.

[stj]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

we used to decap amd K6's, the trick is to add a copper shim under the heatsink afterwards.

[Dan81]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Big haul of freebies today!

Mobos:

Gigabyte GA-MA790GP-DS4H w/ Phenom X4 9950
Gigabyte GA-B75-D3V - upcoming i3 build as soon as I get the rest of the parts
Gigabyte 8I945PL-G
Gigabyte GA-945GZM-S2
ASRock N61P-S
ASUS P5ND2-SLI
ASUS P5B PLUS
ASUS P5B-VM
ASUS M2V-MX
ASUS M2N-MX
ASUS M2N-E


GPUs:
RIVA 128
Matrix Miillenium MGA AGP
MSI Geforce 2 Pro
Geforce 2 MX200
Geforce 2 MX400
Geforce 4 MX440 8x
Geforce FX 5500
Geforce FX 5900 Ultra - needs a reflow
Geforce 6600 PCI-E
Geforce 7500
Geforce 7600GS
Geforce 8500
Geforce 8600GT
Radeon HD5770 - bad fets
GTX660Ti OC 2GB

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

There's a good chance that the GeForce 7600GS has FZ caps!

Same with the GeForce 7500, too!

[Dan81]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

There's a good chance that the GeForce 7600GS has FZ caps!

Same with the GeForce 7500, too!

The 7500 has no caps (they were pulled out) and the 7600 came with two Fujitsu polymers, two Rubycons and two lone low voltage KZGs that haven't been in hot areas. It's an ASUS card so that might explain their cap choices

[ratdude747]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

The 7500 has no caps (they were pulled out) and the 7600 came with two Fujitsu polymers, two Rubycons and two lone low voltage KZGs that haven't been in hot areas. It's an ASUS card so that might explain their cap choices

Nuke the KZG's anyway. They'll blow just sitting on the shelf!

[Dan81]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Nuke the KZG's anyway. They'll blow just sitting on the shelf!

Varies. The 820uF ones never blew in that way. (I have a HD3450 AGP from ASUS with the same kind of caps and they haven't blown to this day)

My first thing to repair atm is that MA790GP-DS4H that has a dead LD1117.


By the way, these days I'm also getting a Raidmax RX-500XT to test that beast of a GTX660Ti, as it has two 6-pin connectors and my best PSUs only have one. No worries about the Raidmax, it's going to get some small upgrades. (I'm trying to save it for when I upgrade my Xeon to a i5 2400)

[Wester547]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

The 820uF 6.3V KZGs never bulged in storage!? Momaka and Agent24 beg to differ. I've only had such trouble with the 820uF 6.3V KZG made between 2005 and 2008, although those made prior to 2005 were still a tad too heat sensitive for my liking and those made after 2008 *might* be okay (along the series as a whole). Only time will tell.

It's true, though, that not all KZG were created equal. The lower their voltage rating and the higher their capacitance rating was, the more failure prone they were. The higher voltage ones did better so long as they were kept cool.

[mikay786]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Not a great lot thesis week at Carboot but got some decent console gear.

PS3 Fat 80gb - £5 working
Xbox 360 E - £5 untested

Big lot of N64 gear. 6x original controllers in different colours. 5 games inc Pokemon stadium 2 Gold kart, Smash bros and a few other good N64 games (5 games total) N64 Xplorer cheat cart - Also a PSP. all for £22

Pokemon stadium is worth £40 alone so a nice score there. Was just about to leave but said to my brother in law let’s justbdonone last lap on bottom row where new sellers were coming in. Eastern European house clearance sellers.


6 Ps1 games £1 each. Only of them is worth owt £35 game so that was a decent buy too.

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Nuke the KZG's anyway. They'll blow just sitting on the shelf!

QFT! That's what happened on my 2004 Asus A7N8X-X, when just sitting in the house!

[Wester547]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

Here's another example of the 820uF 6.3V KZG bulging on the shelf. And yep, the 3300uF 6.3V KZG made before 2008 are the most likely to vent just sitting or otherwise.

[momaka]

Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1

This was about a week ago...

I got a GeForce GTX 560 (non-Ti) 1 GB for $10 locally.
Kind of outdated by today's gaming standard, I suppose, but it should be a fairly significant upgrade to a GT 430 I currently have in one PC that I use for the occasional Fortnite game. Otherwise, I don't mind the GT 430. It plays CS Source beautifully (maxed settings) on 1280x960 @ 85 Hz v-sync'd to one of my 21" CRT monitors. I guess I'm getting close to crossing it off my bucket list to play my favorite games on my CRT monitors all maxed out.

Picked up an Abit VL6 for $10 (single socket370 P3, AGP, VIA 694 chipset)....but I couldn't bear to see a classic Abit board end up in the shredder. Even after I restored it, it's probably not worth much more than $10 I gave for it....but I'm a softie for this stuff.

Yeah, that's how I feel like too when I see classic boards on eBay with bad caps. I still get the occasional one too, if the price is right. Most sellers these days are asking for silly prices though. Seems as if they've all got bit by the "vintage = $$$" bug.

The other day, I was also trying to save a classic Radeon 8500 LE video card... but there was another bidder, and he/she was dead-set on getting it. After the auction jumped past a certain price point, I left it alone... which is sad, because I could well see on the pictures of the card that it had all kinds of MLCCs and resistors missing (along with the cooler fan too.) Whoever gets it might be in for a surprise of a DOA card, I think.

caps bloated as bad as me after a meal @ taco hell....

LOL!
Who eats at Taco Bell anymore, anyways? (Or most other fast food joints for that matter - they're all garbage. I make my own food at home and have almost never had problems with being bloated... unless I cooked something overly-greasy, of course - but that's a rare case.)

Big haul of freebies today!...

That is a big haul indeed. And a good one.

The GeForce 2 Pro is oldschool AGP card and has pretty good collector's value right now. (Not as much as the 3DFX VooDoo stuff, but it's OK.)

Same goes for the FX 5900... they seem to sell for quite a bit these days. But IMHO, they aren't that worthwhile. And they fail, like you see. Hope your reflow brings it back, though.

And GeForce 7500??? I've heard *never* of those. Must be some cheap de-nutted 7600 GS variant or something. I've only seen 7300 GT and 7600 GS here in the US.

Last but not least... the HD5770 with bad MOSFETs. Hate to say it, but it's probably the GPU that has gone bad (shorted) and killed the FETs. If I have to guess, it's the RAM buck regulator. I have an HD3870 and HD7850 here like that. On Radeon HD series cards, the memory I/O part of the GPU core seems to run about 5-10C hotter than all other areas of the GPU. So I suspect that's what kills most of these cards and also why I've seen so many Radeon HD cards with blown FETs - especially on the RAM. In any case, check the resistance of the GPU core and memory buck regulators. If the memory reads less than 2-3 Ohms, I'd suspect bad/shorted GPU. Meanwhile, it's OK for the GPU V_core buck regulator to read about 1-2 Ohms to ground, so don't mind that one.

Varies. The 820uF ones never blew in that way.

They do, but I think only the older ones before 2007/2008 or 2009.
As Wester547 said, only time will tell, though.
That link he shows to my post up there regarding a few 6.3V 820 uF Chemicon KZG caps that bulged on an ASUS P5GC-MX motherboard of mine... here's an update on that: after a few more years, another KZG bloated - and this time with the mobo in use in a PC. So 6.3V 820 uF KZG are not necessarily exempt from going bad.