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Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

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    #21
    Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

    Originally posted by brockklich
    I am attempting to repair a power supply for an LCD display. It failed to power on and there were 6 bulging caps that I feel confident are the problem.


    4 of the 6 were in a row close together. I removed them all, without realizing that they were different values. Now I am not sure which values go into which place on the PCB. 2 were 470 uf / 25v and 2 were 1000 uf/ 10v. They all four appear identical, other than the markings.


    I am trying to figure out my best plan. I cant find any info online about this particular PCB (TDK- model XAD819AR). I have no problem with experimenting with different combinations, but I dont know enough about how they work to know what to avoid. I understand I should never subsitute a lower voltage cap for a higher voltage one, but that the reverse is not true. How about the uf rating though? Could I safely install 1000uf 25 V caps in all four slots without (likely) destroying something else? Would the higher uf rating cause other problems either immediately or later on?

    Is there another approach someone could suggest?

    Thank you for any guidance.


    I have that board in my hand with the same cap problem. The two caps, closest to the TDK label end are the 470 and the two closest to the 8 pin "push on" interface are the 1000.

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      #22
      Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

      Hi! I found this post through google.

      Yesterday I pulled a Princeton monitor out of a dumpster and decided that I would try to nurse it back to health. When I plugged it into the wall, it made a steady a clicking noise (came from the two small internal speakers), and when the monitor was unplugged, the clicking noise persisted but diminished in frequency. The monitor never actually powered on. This led me to believe that it was a power supply problem.

      I pulled the whole thing apart and pulled the power supply PCB out. The model number matches the one mentioned above in this post (I'm sure its the same monitor). The 6 large capacitors on the board do appear to be "bulging", i.e. they are not flat on top. I think I will replace them and hope for the best.

      My question is, should the clicking sound indicate a different problem? I don't want to fix the wrong problem.

      Thanks!

      Comment


        #23
        Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

        just recap it.should be fine then.

        Comment


          #24
          Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

          clicking noise from psu can mean it's overloaded, ie short-circuit on one of the outputs, but clicking on speaker shouldn't be that, so yeah, try recap.

          Comment


            #25
            Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

            It could be that the power supply is cycling on and off rapidly due to the bad caps and the onboard speaker amplifier is outputting popping noises to the speakers. Since its supply voltage is being given to it and taken away when the PSU shuts down.

            Similar to the noise heard when you turn an amplifier on or off.

            Just replace the caps you'd be suprised how many times a recap will be all the monitor needs.
            Elements of the past and the future combining to make something not quite as good as either.

            Comment


              #26
              Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

              Recapped, monitor works perfectly. So essentially, since the monitor was dumpstered, I basically paid seven dollars for it. Fuck yeah!

              Comment


                #27
                Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                Being handy with soldering iron has it's benefits!
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                  #28
                  Bad caps but replacing them didn't fix the power supply

                  Hi, I had the same problem with bad caps on this power supply board.
                  I replaced all of the bad caps with new ones of the correct specs.
                  My problem is that the display still won't power on and I think there is still an issue with my power supply. If I take a reading on the voltage output pins on the 5V side it holds at about 4.8 to 4.9 volts which as far as I know should be fine. On the 12V side however it jumps all over from 8 on up to 11 volts. I am hoping that someone here might have an idea as to why my 12V side is not holding at 12 volts or thereabouts. Any help would be much appreciated.

                  Thanks!

                  Comment


                    #29
                    Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                    Just thought I'd add some details and tie it to a monitor model so perhaps others can find this page via a forum search, Google, etc. This was the only legitimate Google result I found concerning this TDK board. Thanks to the op and those that have added to this thread.

                    I discovered the same TDK XAD819AR \ EA0219X board in a friends Princeton VL1919 that he wanted me to take a crack at fixing. These were sold through Costo about three years ago give or take. Symptoms were a blinking display with a synchronized clicking through the built in laptop style speakers on the back on the case. The backlight would occasionally flash on for a moment.

                    This board is both the power supply and the CCFL inverter. On my board the same four CapXon caps, the 470uF and the 1000uF were bad. Three swollen and the fourth had burst out on the bottom which I hadn't noticed until I dropped it out of the board. The two CapXon 220uF in the center of the board appeared ok, however I did notice that a couple of caps not mentioned in this thread either appeared bad or on the way out. There are another three CapXon inside of the "corral" made by the heatsink [C57-C59-C62], C62 appeared swollen and C59 didn't look "quite right". There is yet another little guy [C8] next to the transformer that looked ok but also made by CapXon.

                    I opted to replace all ten caps on the board made by CapXon (green\gold stripe) and recommend if you tackle the job to do this as well. At this point in the thread you've probably already decided to change out the previously mentioned six caps and there's only another four. As most of us will be already paying $5-7 for shipping for under a pound you might consider tacking on the extra <$2 of caps. Not sure why I did, but I left the only non-CapXon radial cap [next to C8] on the board. I looked it up later but I had already placed my order so it stayed on the board. If I recall it was a 47uF 50V, it can be seen but is not marked on the photo.

                    A word of caution, at least six of the caps have either a surface mount cap or resistor soldered near their leads on the solder side of the board. A couple of them are very close. When you're (de)soldering be careful you don't splash a solder short or knock one of those little bad boys off. I recommend doing one leg of a cap and then moving to another cap, allowing that part of the board (and the smc) to cool before coming back for the second leg. I managed to do just fine with my hugely tipped RS squeeze-bulb desoldering iron. Personally, I wouldn't try wicking those, but that's me.

                    The cathode(-) side of the caps are marked on the board with a line through the circle's edge and have a square solder pad on the solder side of the board.

                    The OEM caps are rated to 105ºC, be certain to check this value if your replacement choice is categorized as "general purpose" as many are only rated to 85ºC.

                    I know most here probably don't need those last bits of advice, but some reading this will be n00bs as we all once were. n00bs are advised to read the faqs and other stickys in the forum, 99% of your questions will be answered.

                    I would have shot the photo with the OEM caps in place but I had to desolder three of them because I couldn't see their specs when they were onboard. When one's soldering and on a roll ...

                    Here are the values along with the current (01\2009) Panasonic FM Series part numbers ....

                    C101 220uf 25v 105ºC - EEU-FM1E221
                    C102 220uf 25v 105ºC - EEU-FM1E221

                    C51 470uf 25v 105ºC - EEU-FM1E471
                    C52 470uF 25v 105ºC - EEU-FM1E471
                    C54 1000uf 10v 105ºC - EEU-FM1A102
                    C56 1000uF 10v 105ºC - EEU-FM1A102

                    C8 4.7uF 50v 105ºC - EEU-FC1H4R7 <-- FC Series - FM n/a

                    C57 100uF 25v 105ºC - EEU-FM1E101

                    C59 100uf 10v 105ºC - EEU-FM1A101
                    C62 100uF 25v 105ºC - EEU-FM1E101

                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by DannyBoodmannTDLemon1900; 01-24-2009, 09:04 AM.
                    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." ~ Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790) ~

                    Comment


                      #30
                      Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                      Originally posted by DannyBoodmannTDLemon1900
                      Not sure why I did, but I left the only non-CapXon radial cap [next to C8] on the board. I looked it up later but I had already placed my order so it stayed on the board. If I recall it was a 47uF 50V, it can be seen but is not marked on the photo.
                      Actually, thats not the only radial left. There's the bigger TAICON as well, I was reffering to the small radial just above C8 in the photo.
                      "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." ~ Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790) ~

                      Comment


                        #31
                        Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                        So glad I found this thread. I have a Hanns-G HN198D monitor just out of warranty and it has started doing the same clicking problem, does power up after about 15 minutes though. Taking the monitor apart I see that I have the same TDK PSU/inverter board so I have ordered the new caps and will be replacing them early next week. Will report back if I am successful or not.

                        Comment


                          #32
                          Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                          Originally posted by eMuNiX
                          So glad I found this thread. I have a Hanns-G HN198D monitor just out of warranty and it has started doing the same clicking problem, does power up after about 15 minutes though. Taking the monitor apart I see that I have the same TDK PSU/inverter board so I have ordered the new caps and will be replacing them early next week. Will report back if I am successful or not.
                          Replacement caps delivered, fitted and screen is working perfectly again. Thanks to this thread

                          Comment


                            #33
                            Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                            Originally posted by eMuNiX
                            Replacement caps delivered, fitted and screen is working perfectly again. Thanks to this thread
                            Congratulations man.
                            There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
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                              #34
                              Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                              Yet another success for TDK XAD819AR Hanns G Model HN199D. Symptoms where Green Light Flash and then very small flash. Would display after awhile (10 mins, etc).

                              Replacing the caps with standard 85 Degree worked and sub 4.7uf 50V with 10uf 50V seemed to work fine. Will report back if it fails for any reason. Display was about 3 years old.

                              Comment


                                #35
                                Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                                And another success for this TDK XAD819AR Hanns G Modell HC194DP.

                                When we want the screen switch on - there was a picture for 2 seconds, then the screen switch off. I thaught there is a failure with the transformers, then I found this forum.

                                Thank you !

                                I have changed C51 and C52 - I have some found in my waste-box :-)

                                We have still 4 of this screens running here - since 2006 - and I hope with some new caps - they will work for another 4 years !!! (or longer..)


                                Best regards, Heiko - Germany

                                Comment


                                  #36
                                  Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                                  Hi everyone - I have a soldering Iron and I think I know which end is the hot bit.. does that sum up my soldering ability.. joke - I actually did 6 months in a factory - 2 weeks of which I spent tinning either ends of 1inch wires..

                                  Been experiencing the flickering on and off on my HANNSG monitor for about 3 weeks now - this morning took 30 mins to get 'warmed up' so I was so glad to spot this thread on a routine search.

                                  Maplins locally sell these caps for 18p - 42p each so I'm dropping in there after work

                                  Many thanks to all who posted and contributed to this.
                                  Last edited by guildwebmaster; 10-18-2010, 02:40 AM.
                                  Born from the earth - burnt at the fingers

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                                    #37
                                    Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                                    Another Hanns-G HN198D saved by replacing nine caps, all except the biggest, six of which were obviously bloated.
                                    Upon turning on: clicking noise, solid led, no reaction on the display and no possibility to turn off (except cutting power).
                                    Thanks badcaps community.

                                    Comment


                                      #38
                                      Re: Confused cap values during removal- best fix?

                                      Originally posted by DannyBoodmannTDLemon1900 View Post
                                      Just thought I'd add some details and tie it to a monitor model so perhaps others can find this page via a forum search, Google, etc.
                                      10 years on, let me also thank Danny for this. Just repaired 2 Hanns-G HC194DP's with this help. Also swapped out all the CapXon caps and they work perfectly again.

                                      These monitors have manufacturing dates of 2006, so 13 years old. They were doing to repeat clicking fail-to-power-on thing for the last year or so, at first a nuisance then slowly getting worse, until one died outright.

                                      I measured all the cap values as I pulled them out. The majority were down to approx 1/2 the spec value, a few were down to 1/3rd.

                                      Thanks again for the save!

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