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    PC Power Draw?

    How much power does your system pull at the wall?

    My main computer pulls ~1.2/1.3A (average line voltage 124V) at the wall. Roughly 160W idle. 1.8-2A when rendering, and 2.5-3A when the CPU and GPU are both heavily loaded.
    Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.

    My computer doubles as a space heater.

    Permanently Retired Systems:
    RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
    Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.


    Kooky and Kool Systems
    - 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
    - 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
    - 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
    - Main Workstation - Fully operational!

    sigpic

    #2
    Re: PC Power Draw?

    With AC, you can have 10A @ 120V which is 1200VA, but could only be 100 watts. This is an extreme example, as is 10A worth of oil caps across the line; in this latter case, you'd only be drawing a few watts or so.


    You need to consider not only power factor, but also note that a non-TRMS can (will?) read higher or lower, especially with loads that draw huge currents for a small portion of the sinewave- doubler or rectifier input SMPSes.

    If your computer power supply has APFC, then input current times input voltage will be very close (.95-.99) to input watts. This, of course, is total input power; the computer's load plus losses in the power supply.
    "pokemon go... to hell!"

    EOL it...
    Originally posted by shango066
    All style and no substance.
    Originally posted by smashstuff30
    guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
    guilty of being cheap-made!

    Comment


      #3
      Re: PC Power Draw?

      Originally posted by kaboom View Post
      With AC, you can have 10A @ 120V which is 1200VA, but could only be 100 watts. This is an extreme example, as is 10A worth of oil caps across the line; in this latter case, you'd only be drawing a few watts or so.


      You need to consider not only power factor, but also note that a non-TRMS can (will?) read higher or lower, especially with loads that draw huge currents for a small portion of the sinewave- doubler or rectifier input SMPSes.

      If your computer power supply has APFC, then input current times input voltage will be very close (.95-.99) to input watts. This, of course, is total input power; the computer's load plus losses in the power supply.



      APFC here. And I think that this actually *is* a true-RMS current meter, but that doesn't matter a lot when your PF is .98 or similar.
      Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.

      My computer doubles as a space heater.

      Permanently Retired Systems:
      RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
      Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.


      Kooky and Kool Systems
      - 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
      - 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
      - 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
      - Main Workstation - Fully operational!

      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        Re: PC Power Draw?

        Was this supposed to be a "chat" question or "why is this" question?

        I find my pc's with GPUs to be the worst power consumers in general... GPUs are hungry....

        Comment


          #5
          Re: PC Power Draw?

          Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
          Was this supposed to be a "chat" question or "why is this" question?

          I find my pc's with GPUs to be the worst power consumers in general... GPUs are hungry....

          Supposed to be a chat question.
          Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.

          My computer doubles as a space heater.

          Permanently Retired Systems:
          RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
          Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.


          Kooky and Kool Systems
          - 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
          - 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
          - 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
          - Main Workstation - Fully operational!

          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            Re: PC Power Draw?

            Ah ok, perhaps this should be placed into the "Lounge" subforum then... was a bit confusing why such a topic as it seemed fairly well known that higher performance PCs use more power in general...

            I have too many PCs, one of which is my PVR that I run 24/7 and it's probably like 80W or so idle, and I am suspecting near 130W or so if I'm submitting batch jobs to it. No GPU, just needs to pull recordings off the air and be able to play them back on the TV it's attached to. It's a really old PC and its onboard chipset graphics (not even CPU graphics) is sufficient for that.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: PC Power Draw?

              Test system:
              Supermicro H8DA3-2
              2x AMD Opteron 8393 Quadcores @ 3.1
              64gb RAM
              2x Quadro FX5800's in SLI
              4x 2.5" 15,000RPM SAS HDD's in a RAID5

              The test bed is the above system being monitored from line with a Sencore PM157 Power Monitor on the 3A scale.



              Fully booted, sitting idle. Consistent between 1.8~2.0 amps.



              Same for web browsing, with minor up spikes during scrolling or graphical actions, didn't vary much from idle. A 4k youtube video playing kicked it up to ~2.2A during playback.



              Q3A (only game on the system at this time) loaded/playing is pretty consistent @ 2.3~2.5 amps.



              Now I'm running Novabench. This is the HDD write test; steady 2.5A, both reads & writes.



              This is the GPU test. I'm not sure if Novabench takes advantage of SLI or not, but it bounced the needle off the scale throughout most of the test. I retested it on the 10A scale, and it never broke a 3.8A draw.



              Boot time, it danced around a little, but never pegged it out on the 3A scale.

              That concludes today's test.
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                #8
                Re: PC Power Draw?

                Can that Sencore PM157 even tell the difference between real watts versus apparent amps? I guess it doesn't matter if you have APFC but seems like a piece of equipment that has passed its prime...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: PC Power Draw?

                  Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                  Can that Sencore PM157 even tell the difference between real watts versus apparent amps? I guess it doesn't matter if you have APFC but seems like a piece of equipment that has passed its prime...
                  Is this like the 'new math'? Raw amperage pulled from line, when did this change? Old meter? Indeed. Extremely accurate? Probably not. Good roundabout? I'd say yea. Unless someone has something better than a clamp meter or inline from harbor freight, feel free to share it.
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                    #10
                    Re: PC Power Draw?

                    Nah math is really old, it can't tell the difference between the real and imaginary components, i.e. phase angle of current draw.

                    Thus I'd can't even give it an accuracy assessment unless you're testing with a device with a PF very close to 1. It'd be completely wrong otherwise.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: PC Power Draw?

                      Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                      Nah math is really old, it can't tell the difference between the real and imaginary components, i.e. phase angle of current draw.

                      Thus I'd can't even give it an accuracy assessment unless you're testing with a device with a PF very close to 1. It'd be completely wrong otherwise.
                      That would probably be beyond my knowledge.... While the numbers yielded seem to be in realistic ranges, the rest of that I can not intelligently answer....I just did the test and read the meter.
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                        #12
                        Re: PC Power Draw?

                        Ok, just warning you based on the photographs, there doesn't seem to be a way for it to discern the difference between a PF=1 and PF << 1 target device, and you'll get misleading numbers from the latter. Just mentioning it may be "obsolete" because there are devices out there that can tell the difference.

                        I suspect you probably use a APFC PSU so the numbers shouldn't be that far off from real power consumption. Just that a non PFC PSU will give "wattage" numbers larger than real power consumption - if you have an APFC and a non PFC PSU giving the same numbers, the APFC unit is drawing more money from your wallet at the power company.

                        (And as an addendum, this is not a "bad" thing. It's just that you'd actually be using that power, versus wasting it or unable to utilize it in the case of the non-PFC PSU!)
                        Last edited by eccerr0r; 06-24-2021, 06:41 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: PC Power Draw?

                          only real way of knowing what matters is watching the meter that clocks up the units you have to pay for .

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: PC Power Draw?

                            Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                            Ok, just warning you based on the photographs, there doesn't seem to be a way for it to discern the difference between a PF=1 and PF << 1 target device, and you'll get misleading numbers from the latter. Just mentioning it may be "obsolete" because there are devices out there that can tell the difference.

                            I suspect you probably use a APFC PSU so the numbers shouldn't be that far off from real power consumption. Just that a non PFC PSU will give "wattage" numbers larger than real power consumption - if you have an APFC and a non PFC PSU giving the same numbers, the APFC unit is drawing more money from your wallet at the power company.

                            (And as an addendum, this is not a "bad" thing. It's just that you'd actually be using that power, versus wasting it or unable to utilize it in the case of the non-PFC PSU!)
                            It's always nice learning something on my own forum. Thanks for the information. FWIW, this PSU is a Supermicro PWS-865-PQ 865w unit. I should have put that in my original post; it seems pertinent information.

                            Originally posted by petehall347 View Post
                            only real way of knowing what matters is watching the meter that clocks up the units you have to pay for .
                            That is indeed true...
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                              #15
                              Re: PC Power Draw?

                              BTW might be worth to archive this with PM157 data if you don't have the owners manual around:

                              https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...22b67bf8a9.pdf

                              Seems the BAMA doesn't have the manual, which is unfortunate, this pdf might be the only manufacturer data available...

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: PC Power Draw?

                                Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                I have too many PCs.
                                Same here.
                                Currently sitting in front of a HP Pavilion DV6000 laptop (the C2D ones with Intel chipset, luckily, and not nVidia shitset) that averages about 20-25W at the wall (real power, that is), measured with a Kill-A-Watt meter. I don't remember what its Power Factor (PF) was or if the adapter had APFC (it probably does, as many original OEM adapters from that era and onwards do), but the Kill-A-Watt can differentiate between real power (Watts) and reactive power (Volt-Amps.) So it's rare that I get to fool it.

                                Otherwise, my daily-use desktop at home is that old Pentium 4 Optiplex 170L dinosaur. IIRC, it draws somewhere around 70 or 80 Watts idle (I can't even recall when was the last time I measured it) and peaks at about 120-130 Watts under full CPU and (onboard) GPU load. As for the CRT monitor (21" Sony) attached to that desktop - it varies based on what I'm viewing on the screen. Dark images/backgrounds make it use a lot less power (about 60-ish Watts, IIRC), and light/bright images/background make it use closer to 100-ish Watts. So total for that whole setup is about 120-ish Watts idle and could go as high as 200 Watts peak.

                                Originally posted by eccerr0r View Post
                                one of which is my PVR that I run 24/7 and it's probably like 80W or so idle, and I am suspecting near 130W or so if I'm submitting batch jobs to it.
                                Ugh. I can understand running that 24/7 when it's cold in the winter and you need heating. But in the summer when it's hot, I keep nothing turned On when I'm not using it.

                                Also, recently I fixed up a mini SFF desktop with a Pentium G3260 and onboard everything. This thing sits at 18 Watts in idle. Watching Youtube in 1080p doesn't make it go past 25 Watts. I can make it peak up to 70 Watts with synthetic benchmarks, or about 50-60W with games that push both the CPU and the IGP to the max... but that's about it. Despite being an SFF desktop, it actually has a normal mATX-sized mobo in it with normal desktop RAM. According to HP, the mobo can take up to a mid-range i5-3xxx CPU (I think rated around 70W TDP.)

                                Originally posted by Topcat View Post
                                Is this like the 'new math'? Raw amperage pulled from line, when did this change?
                                Nope, no new math. Real power vs. apparent power theory is probably about as old as AC power lines. Kaboom pretty much called it all out in Post #2 above.

                                Essentially, real power is how much power the device really is using (and what we measure in Watts)... or more precisely, the power draw of the circuit associated with any resistive parts.
                                But when inductors and capacitors get involved, their impedance becomes a function of the frequency. So any inductive and capacitative components in the circuit will make the current draw from the line to be a bit "funky" and not exactly following the shape of the voltage wave. This "funky" component, in math terms, has an imaginary number value. And when it comes to power, there is also a corresponding imaginary component, called reactive power. It is measured in Volt-Amps (so it's like Watts, but not quite ) In simpler terms, the reactive power is the amount of power the circuit "borrows" from the line temporarily but doesn't end up using it, and then returns it back.
                                Finally, there is apparent power (also measured in VA.) Perhaps now would be a good time to brush up on your Trigonometry here. Apparent power is essentially the combined component of real and reactive power. Using vectors, the real component is for a horizontal vector and the reactive component is for a vertical vector. If these two vectors are put together as the two sides of a right-angle triangle, then the apparent power is the hypotenuse (the combined vector of these two vectors.) And this is why the apparent power can appear as a much higher value that the real power. The power factor, PF, is the ratio of real power to apparent power. Knowing any of these two values (PF, real power, apparent power, or reactive power) will allow you to determine the other two.

                                In the case of a non-PFC (or PPFC) PSU, the input bulk caps make the input circuit appear quite capacitative to the AC line. Thus, the apparent power will read a higher value than the real power due to non-zero reactive power component. So if you try to use a simple current meter on the AC line to measure current on a device that is not purely resistive, you will see higher power draw than what is actually being drawn.

                                But really, the main reason why all of this matters is that reactive power, in big amounts, can be bad news for the power lines, as it still puts a toll on the power lines when the circuit is "borrowing" extra power (that it is then not using and returning back.)

                                Originally posted by Topcat View Post
                                Unless someone has something better than a clamp meter or inline from harbor freight, feel free to share it.
                                Kill-A-Watt meter.
                                And, uhm, I got mine from Harbor Freight. The company that makes the Kill-A-Watt meter (P3 International) isn't specific to Harbor Freight, though, so you can get these from any other place. Only reason I got mine from HF is because they used to send me 25% off coupons a while back (so the meter cost me a little under $20 with taxes instead of $25.
                                Last edited by momaka; 06-26-2021, 03:37 PM.

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                                  #17
                                  Re: PC Power Draw?

                                  Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                  Nope, no new math. Real power vs. apparent power theory is probably about as old as AC power lines. Kaboom pretty much called it all out in Post #2 above.
                                  Yes, I understand the concept. I think perhaps my question was rather how would a 'modern' say "Kill-A-Watt" read this versus the trusty old Sencore? I also have a 90's era Sencore PR570 Variac/isolation transformer; which also measures this kind of thing (Amps/Watts), but its limited to 4A, so I don't usually use it for heavy loads (like testing a SLI system shown above)...I never even questioned it when using it to read current & wattage pulls for whatever it is I was working on....

                                  Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                  Perhaps now would be a good time to brush up on your Trigonometry here.
                                  Uhggg....I could have gone the rest of the day without you mentioning that. I barely even remember the class....let alone the subject matter. It's been way too long.

                                  Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                  Kill-A-Watt meter.
                                  And, uhm, I got mine from Harbor Freight. The company that makes the Kill-A-Watt meter (P3 International) isn't specific to Harbor Freight, though, so you can get these from any other place. Only reason I got mine from HF is because they used to send me 25% off coupons a while back (so the meter cost me a little under $20 with taxes instead of $25.
                                  I bought one for $22. We'll find out how off it is versus the old Sencore PM57. Probably a handy thing to have around anyway....but it would be interesting to see, just for giggles.
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                                    #18
                                    Re: PC Power Draw?

                                    Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                    Same here.
                                    Currently sitting in front of a HP Pavilion DV6000 laptop (the C2D ones with Intel chipset, luckily, and not nVidia shitset)
                                    Which is kind of a rare bird, as most opted for the nvidia "performance" model vs the "boring" intel one. The irony, as you already know, is that the supposedly low-performance intel ones are still going. The former NV "high performance," or "gamer" models are now no performance, lol...


                                    Essentially, real power is how much power the device really is using (and what we measure in Watts)... or more precisely, the power draw of the circuit associated with any resistive parts.
                                    But when inductors and capacitors get involved, their impedance becomes a function of the frequency. So any inductive and capacitative components in the circuit will make the current draw from the line to be a bit "funky" and not exactly following the shape of the voltage wave. This "funky" component, in math terms, has an imaginary number value. And when it comes to power, there is also a corresponding imaginary component, called reactive power. It is measured in Volt-Amps (so it's like Watts, but not quite ) In simpler terms, the reactive power is the amount of power the circuit "borrows" from the line temporarily but doesn't end up using it, and then returns it back.
                                    Finally, there is apparent power (also measured in VA.) Perhaps now would be a good time to brush up on your Trigonometry here. Apparent power is essentially the combined component of real and reactive power. Using vectors, the real component is for a horizontal vector and the reactive component is for a vertical vector. If these two vectors are put together as the two sides of a right-angle triangle, then the apparent power is the hypotenuse (the combined vector of these two vectors.) And this is why the apparent power can appear as a much higher value that the real power. The power factor, PF, is the ratio of real power to apparent power. Knowing any of these two values (PF, real power, apparent power, or reactive power) will allow you to determine the other two.
                                    My friend "j" said the same thing!


                                    Also:

                                    In the case of a non-PFC (or PPFC) PSU, the input bulk caps make the input circuit appear quite capacitative to the AC line. Thus, the apparent power will read a higher value than the real power due to non-zero reactive power component. So if you try to use a simple current meter on the AC line to measure current on a device that is not purely resistive, you will see higher power draw than what is actually being drawn.
                                    There's literally another layer to consider. Those caps are behind a rectifier; you've now got a nonlinear load. Simply put, those caps cannot recharge on each half-cycle until the instantaneous line voltage (less rectifier drop) exceeds the voltage across the caps. As this occurs over a few degrees, the currents are large, with the caps "topping off" over a brief period. You can see this if you scope the line with the appropriate divider probe. The "flat topping" (more of a slope) of each half cycle is thousands of cap-input rectifiers.

                                    PPFC is only somewhat useful, since it attempts to "stretch" the recharge over more degrees of each half cycle vs its contemporary. But APFC is best in that it makes the current draw co-incide with the voltage waveform. IOW, input current just about follows input voltage; the very definition of an easy load.

                                    So while there are inductive & capacitive loads, a non APFC SMPS is neither. It's a non linear load. The former two simply shift or displace the sinewave of their current draw; the latter distorts it.


                                    Yes, TC. If you connect a typical 35uF motor run cap directly across 240VAC, you'll have 3.2A or 768VA flowing (or "bouncing" to/from the POCO transformer), but the only power consumed will be the I2R losses in the wiring and a minimal loss in the cap. More to the point: the same I2R losses occur in the POCO transformers, which, of course, is on their side of the meter. Now consider what APFC does, vs a few degrees of huge currents for non PFC SMPS topping off. Also reduces losses for the POCO. And keeps triplens from adding on the neutral in 3ph Y secondary dist systems.

                                    DO NOT take this to mean "makes the SMPS more efficient."
                                    It does not! As previously "discussed" on bcn, the APFC front end reduces overall SMPS efficiency- a power supply feeding a power supply. It's thru control schemes & better MOSFETs & sync rectification where efficiency is gained.

                                    It makes distribution more efficient because of lower transformer/conductor/gen losses, and makes distribution more effective since there's less overhead of the (k/M)VARS; more conductor ampacity is available for delivering billable power.

                                    Because resistive losses are I squared R.

                                    If the Sencore simply has an ammeter whose scale also read "watts," you're likely missing the mark with modern equipment. Actually, (amps@120V)=watts persisted for quite some time. I have an early 90's fan whose nameplate claims .8A @ 120V, supposedly 96 "watts." No, 96VA, maybe 60W on the KAW.

                                    Because with AC, V * A =/= watts.
                                    Again, see motor runcap example above- hardly "new math," which was kind of a stupid comment.
                                    Try an oil cap with the Sencore. Bet you get a "watt" reading even though it's just VA...
                                    If it's an actual dual coil wattmeter (like a mechanical kWH meter), it should read zero with just a runcap.
                                    Last edited by kaboom; 06-26-2021, 04:31 PM.
                                    "pokemon go... to hell!"

                                    EOL it...
                                    Originally posted by shango066
                                    All style and no substance.
                                    Originally posted by smashstuff30
                                    guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
                                    guilty of being cheap-made!

                                    Comment


                                      #19
                                      Re: PC Power Draw?

                                      Originally posted by Topcat View Post
                                      Yes, I understand the concept. I think perhaps my question was rather how would a 'modern' say "Kill-A-Watt" read this versus the trusty old Sencore?
                                      Not quite sure... but I think that Sencore (or just any AC ammeter) likely just measure the voltage drop over a current shut and then amplifies the magnitude of that to give a reading on the scale.

                                      Whereas with the Kill-A-Watt, it measures not only that but also the AC voltages before and after the current shunt, and probably some other parameters about the voltage waveform. From these, it's likely what enables it to calculate the real power.

                                      Originally posted by Topcat View Post
                                      Uhggg....I could have gone the rest of the day without you mentioning that. I barely even remember the class....let alone the subject matter. It's been way too long.
                                      Oh, don't worry, I'm rusty AF too when it comes to those.
                                      For one of my uni classes, though - industrial motors and machinery - we did have to do a ton of W, VA, and VARS calculations... so just the very basics of trig knowledge I still retain from that (and it was probably one of the most fun labs/classes I took.)

                                      Originally posted by kaboom View Post
                                      Which is kind of a rare bird, as most opted for the nvidia "performance" model vs the "boring" intel one. The irony, as you already know, is that the supposedly low-performance intel ones are still going. The former NV "high performance," or "gamer" models are now no performance, lol...
                                      Yep, lol.
                                      In fact, I also have a Compaq V6000, which is nearly the same thing as this laptop, but with AMD CPU and nVidia chipset... and in the case of that one, it was a no performance machine, indeed. But with a reflow, I was able to get it working just to mess around with it. (The thread is here somewhere on BCN.) Eventually, it lost the WiFi, which I suspect is due to the nVidia NB loosing it again. Oh well At least I'll have a spare keyboard and display for the DV6000. I'm already using the adapter and HDD caddy from it.

                                      Originally posted by kaboom View Post
                                      There's literally another layer to consider. Those caps are behind a rectifier; you've now got a nonlinear load. Simply put, those caps cannot recharge on each half-cycle until the instantaneous line voltage (less rectifier drop) exceeds the voltage across the caps. As this occurs over a few degrees, the currents are large, with the caps "topping off" over a brief period.
                                      ...
                                      So while there are inductive & capacitive loads, a non APFC SMPS is neither. It's a non linear load. The former two simply shift or displace the sinewave of their current draw; the latter distorts it.
                                      Yeah, that too.
                                      For this reason, even the Kill-A-Watt is not super-accurate when it comes to non-APFC SMPS... but it's better than a simple ammeter, though.

                                      Originally posted by kaboom View Post
                                      My friend "j" said the same thing!
                                      You funny!

                                      Anyways, good to see you back here! Been wondering where/how you've been.

                                      Comment


                                        #20
                                        Re: PC Power Draw?

                                        Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                        (snip)Eventually, it lost the WiFi, which I suspect is due to the nVidia NB loosing it again. Oh well (snip)
                                        This made me LOL... It's practically meme-worthy considering NV's "reputation," both past and current.


                                        Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                        For this reason, even the Kill-A-Watt is not super-accurate when it comes to non-APFC SMPS... but it's better than a simple ammeter, though.
                                        As the KAW needs to remain accurate for low current levels too, and given there's a fixed number of bits for its ADC, does it run out of bits and "clip" or truncate above a given current level? If they use the ATMega's (or whatever uC) ADC, then maybe so, especially considering they'd make the ADC's "granularity" finer for more accuracy at lower current levels & given the fixed (low?) number of bits available. Favoring low-moderate current loads that operate over long periods of time vs short-time, high current loads.

                                        So the KAW's ammeter may (does?) lose resolution as current goes much over 20A. KAW flashes the display and beeps over ~1800W@120V. Remember, to be accurate for non-APFC cap charging current, it should be accurate to something like 30A. But it probably truncates far below this, almost like trying to drive beyond 0dB in a WAV/MP3 file; anything over the ADC limit is truncated to the limit, just like anything over 0dB limits, "digitally clips," to 0dB- and sounds horrible.

                                        Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                        You funny!
                                        But am I reactive?

                                        Originally posted by momaka View Post
                                        Anyways, good to see you back here! Been wondering where/how you've been.
                                        Just killing some spare time...
                                        Been "reading the mail" sporadically, but finally dropped in to post.

                                        With any luck, more to come...
                                        "pokemon go... to hell!"

                                        EOL it...
                                        Originally posted by shango066
                                        All style and no substance.
                                        Originally posted by smashstuff30
                                        guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
                                        guilty of being cheap-made!

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