I read through this thread, and just want to confirm what i should do.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...hlight=24N60C3.
This person's fault was exactly the same as mine, even down to the power strip and with the muffled popping sound.
I suspect that my problem started with an old power strip, of which a computer and a 2000W heater were plugged into...
I noticed melting and heat where the heater was plugged in, so i plugged the heater directly into a double wall socket, but still noticed the muffled pop sound when i turned on the computer, and it got to the point that it wouldn't start at all unless i plugged it into the wall and it stared up, then plugged it back into the power strip and all was running fine.
If course, i got a new power strip, and disposed of the old one.
Then one day when i left the computer alone in inside (and that was all that was running on that circuit), and i went outside, i came back in, it wouldn't come back out of what i assumed was a state of hibernation or standby.
Checked the switchboard, and noticed that the circuit's 20A fuse had tripped.
Which was a bit of surprise because when i opened the PSU i noticed that it had a 10A fuse (but i guess that could be due to the relative tripping curves)
This doesn't look like a budget PSU, but it seems that it's only effective over-current protection is a 10A fuse.
So i guess that the arcing that was happing with the heater, in some way was causing spikes, or ripple that upset the APFC, and weakened the PSU and it eventually let too much current through, and blew the fuse, NTC thermistor, and the (APFC?) power transistor
I noticed that there was another transistor next to the other one and was exactly the same, and can see that from the above post that it is most likely for the APFC, and there is also a (APFC boost?) diode mounted on the heatsink as well.
And similarly, since our line voltage is 230V, the APFC circuit is not essential.
So disconnecting the two power transistors, and removing the diode that's next to them on the heatsink (and replacing with a jumper), will bypass the APFC?
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...hlight=24N60C3.
This person's fault was exactly the same as mine, even down to the power strip and with the muffled popping sound.
I suspect that my problem started with an old power strip, of which a computer and a 2000W heater were plugged into...
I noticed melting and heat where the heater was plugged in, so i plugged the heater directly into a double wall socket, but still noticed the muffled pop sound when i turned on the computer, and it got to the point that it wouldn't start at all unless i plugged it into the wall and it stared up, then plugged it back into the power strip and all was running fine.
If course, i got a new power strip, and disposed of the old one.
Then one day when i left the computer alone in inside (and that was all that was running on that circuit), and i went outside, i came back in, it wouldn't come back out of what i assumed was a state of hibernation or standby.
Checked the switchboard, and noticed that the circuit's 20A fuse had tripped.
Which was a bit of surprise because when i opened the PSU i noticed that it had a 10A fuse (but i guess that could be due to the relative tripping curves)
This doesn't look like a budget PSU, but it seems that it's only effective over-current protection is a 10A fuse.
So i guess that the arcing that was happing with the heater, in some way was causing spikes, or ripple that upset the APFC, and weakened the PSU and it eventually let too much current through, and blew the fuse, NTC thermistor, and the (APFC?) power transistor
I noticed that there was another transistor next to the other one and was exactly the same, and can see that from the above post that it is most likely for the APFC, and there is also a (APFC boost?) diode mounted on the heatsink as well.
And similarly, since our line voltage is 230V, the APFC circuit is not essential.
So disconnecting the two power transistors, and removing the diode that's next to them on the heatsink (and replacing with a jumper), will bypass the APFC?
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