NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

[leotron]

First and foremost, thanks for you time if are reading this, since I'm new and I'm just asking for help. I have this broken Power Supply that a friend gave me, it doesn't turn on at the moment. (He used in Bitcoin mining IRCC)
I know some basic repairs in electronics, but in this case the problem seems more complicated that a simple toasted capacitor/Resistor. Luckily when I open this supply I found a clue where the problem might be, since the cover plastic have this kind of explosion/burn near the main resistor. I'm gonna attach the images so if you have any ideas I will be very gratified.

https://i.imgur.com/omq5uU2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kNqJBOX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MPm3uAJ.jpg

Another angle:
https://i.imgur.com/v4h48W5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ht96pSX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GWsTbOs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WB4VbCf.jpg

Thanks again for your time.

[momaka]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

To me, it looks like something burned on the protective plastic sheet, but can't say for sure. If that is the case, can we see a picture of the burn on the back of the PCB?

If there is none, then start with posting some of the basics checks for us:
- Is the fuse and/or thermistor blown/open-circuit?
-- If not, what happens when you plug in the PSU? 5VSB OK?
--- If no 5VSB, check voltage across main (big) capacitor. Be careful, as that is a high-voltage area and is dangerous (even the primary heatsinks may be energized, so don't touch them.)

Report back with the above info so that hopefully we can start to narrow down the issue.

BTW, for future reference, please also host your pictures here on the forums, using the "Manage Attachments" button. Many members (myself included) sometimes tend to avoid clicking on links with external image hosting sites. IMGUR is probably the only one that I make an exception for. But Photobucket and Imageshack, along with many others, I don't bother with.

[leotron]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

To me, it looks like something burned on the protective plastic sheet, but can't say for sure. If that is the case, can we see a picture of the burn on the back of the PCB?

If there is none, then start with posting some of the basics checks for us:
- Is the fuse and/or thermistor blown/open-circuit?
-- If not, what happens when you plug in the PSU? 5VSB OK?
--- If no 5VSB, check voltage across main (big) capacitor. Be careful, as that is a high-voltage area and is dangerous (even the primary heatsinks may be energized, so don't touch them.)

Report back with the above info so that hopefully we can start to narrow down the issue.

BTW, for future reference, please also host your pictures here on the forums, using the "Manage Attachments" button. Many members (myself included) sometimes tend to avoid clicking on links with external image hosting sites. IMGUR is probably the only one that I make an exception for. But Photobucket and Imageshack, along with many others, I don't bother with.

Thank you so much for you answer, I am attaching the pic of the back of the PCB to see if you can see the problem, I did some resoldering to the ones that looks suspicious. I know it doesn't look good in the "burn" zone but most of the brownish stuff is resin. The quality of the soldering isn't that good for a brand like NZXT.

1) The fuse is OK, at least the AC powers goes trough it.
2) When I "turned" the PSU using the paper clip method and connecting a disk it doesn't show anything in the reading. So NO +5vsb.
3) The big capacitor show some reading about 240v so I guess that's ok.

I had to desolder the main 3.3, 5, and 12v cables since it's impossible to manipulate correcly, checked for short circuits and everything is OK (no voltage neither hehe).

Thanks again for your time.

[sam_sam_sam]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

Thank you so much for you answer, I am attaching the pic of the back of the PCB to see if you can see the problem, I did some resoldering to the ones that looks suspicious. I know it doesn't look good in the "burn" zone but most of the brownish stuff is resin. The quality of the soldering isn't that good for a brand like NZXT.

1) The fuse is OK, at least the AC powers goes trough it.
2) When I "turned" the PSU using the paper clip method and connecting a disk it doesn't show anything in the reading. So NO +5vsb.
3) The big capacitor show some reading about 240v so I guess that's ok.

I had to desolder the main 3.3, 5, and 12v cables since it's impossible to manipulate correcly, checked for short circuits and everything is OK (no voltage neither hehe).

Thanks again for your time.

Can you please tell us what is going on with the soldering joints around R28 and R29 or R30

From the photo it looks like bad soldering joints or is it the way the light is hitting it

[momaka]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

1) The fuse is OK, at least the AC powers goes trough it.

OK. There should also be a thermistor somewhere in that area too. Typically, those are dark green or black disk-shaped components with PCB pre-fix "NTC" or "TH" or "THR". When you find it, check it for open-circuit or high resistance as well. Should read less than 10 Ohms cold.

2) When I "turned" the PSU using the paper clip method and connecting a disk it doesn't show anything in the reading. So NO +5vsb.

You do NOT need to jumper anything to get 5VSB - just plug in the PSU, and 5V should come out from the purple wire / 5VSB pin on the main 20/24-pin ATX plug. If not, that's the first thing we need to troubleshoot - get the 5VSB up and running. Without it, the rest of the PSU won't power either, because the 5VSB circuit also powers the internal PSU ICs.

3) The big capacitor show some reading about 240v so I guess that's ok.

No, 240V is quite an odd-ball value.

Depending on where you live / your country's grid voltage, you should get...
For 110/115/120V AC line: about 160-170V DC across the main capacitor.
For 220/230/240V AC line: about 320-340V DC across the main capacitor.
These values are only applicable to PSUs with 400V/420V/450V input main capacitors. For the older PSUs with two 200V/250V capacitors (with voltage doubler/divider), obviously the DC voltage will be less than the capacitor's rating. Typically, that would be 160-170V DC across each cap.

I had to desolder the main 3.3, 5, and 12v cables since it's impossible to manipulate correcly, checked for short circuits and everything is OK (no voltage neither hehe).

Well, that's fine for now. But don't worry about the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V rails at all right now. First we need to troubleshoot the 5VSB circuit.

That said, it looks like transistor Q11 and associated components around it are responsible for generating 5VSB, so that's where you should start. Pull out Q11 and check it. Also check R1 for open-circuit and all the diodes in that area for short-circuit. Unfortunately, the controller for the 5VSB is that tine SOT-23-6 -packaged IC. See if you can get a part number off of that for us.

By the way, I still can't see what has burned from that bottom-view picture. But now that I look back on the other pictures you uploaded, it looks like it's something from the 5VSB circuit. So that could well explain it why there is no 5VSB.

Of course, first verify the voltages that I asked for on the main capacitor. Again, you should be looking for either 160-170V DC or 320-340V DC, depending on what part of the world you live.

[leotron]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

OK. There should also be a thermistor somewhere in that area too. Typically, those are dark green or black disk-shaped components with PCB pre-fix "NTC" or "TH" or "THR". When you find it, check it for open-circuit or high resistance as well. Should read less than 10 Ohms cold.

That's correct. The measure gave me aroud 4 - 5 ohms. I put it close to a heat source, carefully not to break it, and the resistance dropped to 0hms.

You do NOT need to jumper anything to get 5VSB - just plug in the PSU, and 5V should come out from the purple wire / 5VSB pin on the main 20/24-pin ATX plug. If not, that's the first thing we need to troubleshoot - get the 5VSB up and running. Without it, the rest of the PSU won't power either, because the 5VSB circuit also powers the internal PSU ICs.

Yep. I forgot about it, as you said first I need to check the 5vsb power.

No, 240V is quite an odd-ball value.

Depending on where you live / your country's grid voltage, you should get...
For 110/115/120V AC line: about 160-170V DC across the main capacitor.
For 220/230/240V AC line: about 320-340V DC across the main capacitor.
These values are only applicable to PSUs with 400V/420V/450V input main capacitors. For the older PSUs with two 200V/250V capacitors (with voltage doubler/divider), obviously the DC voltage will be less than the capacitor's rating. Typically, that would be 160-170V DC across each cap.

I double checked with other multimeter I have and it gave me 320v exactly as you said. (220v in my country). So one problem less to worry about.

Well, that's fine for now. But don't worry about the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V rails at all right now. First we need to troubleshoot the 5VSB circuit.

That said, it looks like transistor Q11 and associated components around it are responsible for generating 5VSB, so that's where you should start. Pull out Q11 and check it. Also check R1 for open-circuit and all the diodes in that area for short-circuit. Unfortunately, the controller for the 5VSB is that tine SOT-23-6 -packaged IC. See if you can get a part number off of that for us.

By the way, I still can't see what has burned from that bottom-view picture. But now that I look back on the other pictures you uploaded, it looks like it's something from the 5VSB circuit. So that could well explain it why there is no 5VSB.

Of course, first verify the voltages that I asked for on the main capacitor. Again, you should be looking for either 160-170V DC or 320-340V DC, depending on what part of the world you live.

I tested most of the components near the Q11 as you specified (Diodes, Resistances, taking out of the circuit and put it back) and everything seems to working fine, looks like we are approaching the the issue. In this webpage we can see the most important components that manage the 5vsb, it came very useful (https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/...-700-V2/4.html)

"We spotted a CM6803 IC, the combo PFC/Standby controller, on the solder side of the PCB. It is supported by a CM03X Green PFC controller."

I guess the CM6803 it's the one that I must test. I have an oscilloscope so I can measure correctly with the values of the datasheet.


Again, thanks for you time.

[momaka]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

I guess the CM6803 it's the one that I must test. I have an oscilloscope so I can measure correctly with the values of the datasheet.

No. The CM6803 is more than likely your PWM + APFC controller for the main PS.

Like I said, see if you can get any part number for that 6-pin SMD IC on the upper left corner of the PCB in this picture (just a little NW of SMD resistors R13 and R4):
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...3&d=1555194594
I think that should be your 5VSB IC.

[leotron]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

No. The CM6803 is more than likely your PWM + APFC controller for the main PS.

Like I said, see if you can get any part number for that 6-pin SMD IC on the upper left corner of the PCB in this picture (just a little NW of SMD resistors R13 and R4):
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...3&d=1555194594
I think that should be your 5VSB IC.

Thanks for the lesson. This is a hard one to get a photo. I improvised some lens with my cellphone camera. It seems like l DP F02 ?

[leotron]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

Sorry for the double post, but it looks like IDP F02 it's not exactly the part number, but the fabrication date or something. More info here:

http://lcd-television-repair.com/new..._Power_IC.html
http://tel-spb.ru/repair/pwm-sot26

Following the descriptions in the links above it might be this one, but i'm not so sure: R7731A https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...723a3baac5.pdf

[R_J]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

That looks correct, I think there is a resistor R1, between the standby transformer and one end of R13 (B+), see if is open

[momaka]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

Confirmed, that looks correct to me as well.

Try to see if there is any voltage between pin Vdd and Gnd on that R7731A chip. If yes, let us know what value you get. If no, there should be at least one (but most likely two) series resistors going between the Vdd pin and the +320V DC bus on the primary. See if either of these are open or high value. Because such resistors tend to have very high resistance, it's advisable you check them out of circuit. R_J mentioned resistor R13 (which is also in series with R4)... but I'm not sure if either of those would be the "startup" resistors for the R7731A IC. Unfortunately, with small SMD parts in circuits like these, it gets a bit difficult to see how things are connected, so that's all the info I can give you right now. That said, could also post another picture or two of the area surround the R7731A IC?

[R_J]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

I only mentioned R13 (the end opposite R4) as a reference for the B+ , It is connected to the main capacitor, The start resistors for the R7731a are R54 & R55, Check R59 & R58, they are 2R4Ω in parallel, so 1.2Ω accross them, if they are open the us1 is bad

[leotron]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

Hi there, thanks for you answers! I'm gonna check those things that you stated.

I found a schematic online (Don't ask how but I have luck I guess) from a PSU Chieftec, looks like it's the same manufacturer as NZXT. Checking components by component the two PSU looks similar, I know that probably isn't the same PSU but I least I Have a a clue or reference how things connect each other.

The webpage of PSU Diagrams: http://publikz.com/projects/atx/
The PDF containing the diagram (I attached below): https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...e8e1b352f6.pdf

With that information:

I measure the R7731: PIN1 (GND) and PIN5 (Vcc) give me 0 ohms or short circuit, but like one of you said maybe I should check the resistors around for clues.

I tested the R1 for a open resitor and it's OK. (A 2.2 ohm one).

Another information that may ask is some guidance to how to test the different voltages across the board (primarly near the IC 5vsb). I know they are called TEST POINTS so with those I will have some guidance.

Thanks again. See ya later.

[R_J]

Re: NZXT 700w Hale82 v2 (Repair Help)

When checking any voltages on the primary, or HOT side, use the [-] of C1, main cap. see the single triangle as ground, To measure any voltages on the secondary use COLD ground, like [-] of C14 (see different symbol)

I would start by removing ZD1 as it might be shorted, If there is still a short between pin 1 and 5 , remove C45 and then C3,(if they are used) That line is for the ic's VCC voltage, no voltage, no operation. The fact the resistor R1 is good suggests the ic itself could be ok. A spike from the line or a bad (open) C3 or C47 may have caused it also