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#601 | ||
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
City & State: Thessaloniki, Greece
My Country: Greece
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,137
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The linear transformer is also missing but I can use a laptop adapter without issues here. Same goes to the Altec Lansing system that has a bad transformer. Tried laptop adapter and perfectly worked. But the quality of the sound is quite bad. Quote:
that's something we have in common ![]() if you remember the pic I posted from my bedroom, a cheap Philips mini hifi speaker is the base of the front right Dali Spektor 2 speaker.... ...and my grandma's Winson speakers got repurposed as speaker stands for my Dali Zensor 3 big speakers I have on my living room. But I need to fix the Sony AVR to make those Dalis sing. Right now they are not connected to anything |
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#602 |
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: The Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 122.5VAC 59.9Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 681
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![]() This is more of a repair than a mod, but i assume it can still go here.
Story: So a few years ago, I got a 150w/10A electronic load off eBay, and when it arrived, it turned out the LCD was damaged in shipping, so after a bit of back and forth with the seller (and eBay stepping in) i got a full refund for the unit, and used the money to buy a replacement, while the broken one was put aside for parts. Anyway, a few weeks ago, i doing a bit of cleaning when a brilliant idea popped into my head on a way to "fix" the broken unit. But first, i needed to find a new cooler, as i had stolen the old one off it for something else, so a bit of digging later, and I found an old Intel cooler, that appears to be slightly beefier than the Cooler Master one that came with the item originally. So all i had to do was attach it and... IMG_20220312_175426702.jpg Fits like a glove ![]() i don't know what that connector is for, and i don't care. So now i just needed a power meter, and i had just the part. IMG_20220312_175532161.jpg I got this voltage/current display off eBay back in 2017 or so, for a DIY bench PSU, which I did build, but proceeded to end up killing by mistake, however, the display survived and ended up in storage, waiting to be put to use again. So now it was time to put these things together, but first, i needed to find power for the display, only issue was it required 12v, and most of the unit runs off of 5v or 3.3v, but i did manage to find one trace with 12v on it, so i scraped away some solder resist and tacked a wire direct to it. IMG_20220312_184127966.jpg It's not pretty, but it works, and that's all i care about. Next up was to try and figure out how to attach the current sense wires, and that was the tricky bit for me, as there wasn't an easy way to do it, but in the end, i did find a way, and that way was to move the input onto a daughter board. IMG_20220312_190759793.jpg So now was the moment of truth, i gave the unit power, and the display came to life, next i connected a power supply to the load and... Nothing happened. As it turned out, the display i used had the current sense line common to ground, and the mistake i made was, i connected the current sense wires to positive, effectively shorting out anything i connected to it, which is exactly what happened to the power supply i connected. So a bit of resoldering later, and... IMG_20220312_192811668.jpg It works. ![]() Now, some may ask why i didn't get a new LCD, and the reason is that almost no one (except some shady back channel sites) had the right part. And even though some functionality is missing from this due to the repair, I honestly don't care much.
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I'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best. |
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#603 | ||||||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,860
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In my case, I use this Eminence Kappa Pro-15A speaker driver that I repaired for testing more heavy-duty amps. When turned upside down on my carpet, it can take quite a bit of power. Free-air, though, it doesn't take much before the VC reaches the same spot that made it go bad the first time. So I can't use that large driver open-air with too powerful amps. Quote:
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![]() Ah yes! I used these crappy speakers - one as a make-shift night-stand in college (for putting my phone next to my bed), and the other as a make-shift computer stand. LOL! They are pure garbage otherwise. ![]() Quote:
That stock Intel cooler actually looks better than the Cooler Master one on the working unit Quote:
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#604 |
SNES-powered
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Bacau
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,504
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![]() Since I was cheap and this is probably the only slotket I could ever find, I took a gamble and went ahead and modded it to work with Coppermines.
Not sure if it's really ghetto but the fact that I wouldn't want to spend money to get a proper slotket that supports CuMines out of the box is pretty ghetto for me. Not sure about voltages though I think the BE6-II I have bought must've adjusted itself accordingly (also have installed latest BIOS as security measure) to the Coppermine voltage since the Slot 1 versions don't run at a too big voltage to matter for this slotket (1.65v for Slot 1 vs 1.75v for 370 - if anything I might've undervolted the chips slightly ![]() The only chip I couldn't get to POST was a SL5QW, though not sure if the chip itself is defective or the BIOS simply didn't like it. I remember running it a few years ago (2 or 3, not much) on a EPOX EP-3VCM and it worked fine... something's quite amiss, but as long as I have a 133FSB SL4C8 Coppermine P3, I don't really mind.
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Main rig: Gigabyte B75M-D3H Core i5-3470 3.60GHz Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5 16GB DDR3-1600 Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped) 120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB Delux MG760 case Last edited by Dan81; 04-20-2022 at 12:47 AM.. |
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