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    #41
    Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

    You might try only replacing the OST and GSC capacitors... The KZE and Rubycon are probably still within spec. HZ will work... Which series are the OST and the Rubycon?
    "We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."

    -Leonid Brezhnev (On the Yom Kippur War)

    Comment


      #42
      Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

      OST is RLX and Rubycon is DXY. Are the Nichicon HZ as good as the Premium caps offered on badcaps store though?

      Comment


        #43
        Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

        Nichicon HZ is the lowest ESR cap you can get, so technically you can replace any cap on the motherboard with that (if you can find the right size, voltage, and capacitance, of course). That said, BEWARE of fake caps! The only proven places for genuine Japanese caps is Mouser, Digikey, badcaps.net/store (this website), and maybe a handful of other online stores like RS, and etc. If you do get your caps from the local store, make sure to post pictures of the caps here before putting them in the board. Particularly, take a shot of the top of the cap (the vent stamp) and the bottom (the rubber bung seal where the leads stick out of). Those are the two places that fake manufacturers usually screw up on. It really would be a shame to install counterfeit caps on your motherboard and then have them fail just a few months later.

        Another thing worth noting - you have an ASUS motherboard. That means the marks on the board that indicate the caps polarity are reversed to the standard convention. The standard convention is the shaded cemi-circle is where the negative lead of the cap goes (the lead closes to the stripe on the cap). With ASUS, this is backwards: positive lead on the cap goes to the shaded cemi-circle on the board. So be careful there too. Have a look at the pictures on the first page and you will see what I am talking about (or alternatively, mark the negative side of the caps on your board as you take them out).

        Also, I don't recall Rubycon having any DXY series. They do have YXG, MBZ,and MCZ. But all of these can be replaced by the Nichicon HZ, so nothing to worry. Nichico HN is a tier lower than Nichicon HZ, but they will work too.

        Comment


          #44
          Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

          momaka summed up everything. I would only like to add that RLX must be replaced with an equivalent or better Ultra Low-ESR series, so Nichicon HZ will do fine there.

          Yes, he probably read the "YXG" backwards as "DXY". You can probably get away with leaving the Rubycon YXG and the UCC KZE. YXG isn't exactly the highest durability series from Rubycon, but they should be OK as long as they haven't been getting too hot and if they were used in low stressed areas, ripple-wise. KZE is an excellent series and those caps probably have several thousands of hours of life left on them. Having said that, if you want to improve the VRM, you can replace them with an ultra low-esr series cap like HZ.
          Last edited by mockingbird; 04-25-2014, 03:24 PM.
          "We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."

          -Leonid Brezhnev (On the Yom Kippur War)

          Comment


            #45
            Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

            You're wondering why your temperature is high?! Well, if your setup is so complicated that you can't even take off the side panel to look at caps, when's the last time you dusted the thing? And even quality thermal paste dries out and gets crusty over time. P4's (As much as I love them) run hot enough as is even with low supplied ripple, good VRM, good cooling, and fresh thermal paste. Especially since you run it 24/7, the heatsink is probably caked!

            Comment


              #46
              Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

              Thanks for the answers!

              Does anyone here know if thecapking.com carries genuine caps or not since they seem to also sell the kit online.

              I know ASUS motherboards has the polarity reversed as I see that mentioned here and other places and I also checked my motherboard and it was the same thing, perhaps they are trying to make people void the warranty if they try to modify the capacitors.
              When replacing capacitors, do people usually take one out then put a new one in, one at a time or do they just take all the same kind out and then put the new ones in one by one?

              Glad to hear that Nichicon HZ will work fine. Any recommendations for the 16V 100uF?

              You are right that I might have read the stuff backwards as I was using a dental mirror to read the two smaller capacitors and thankfully no one asked me what series the GSC was or else I would have not been able to figure it out as I tried looking and didn't find anything.

              Usually when there are problems with capacitors, is the voltage reported by the BIOS and things like Motherboard Monitor going to show it?

              As for why the temperature, it is not due to the dusted part because the problem happened with both the old cpu and when I swapped the CPU with a new one in which I did clean everything and used the blow function of the MetroVac DataVac® Pro 3 so all the dust is gone and I replaced the Arctic Silver 5 after cleaning the heatsink fan. Where did I say I can't take out the side panels? I have a SuperMicro SC762 (OEM by Addtronics) case http://www.xpcgear.com/sc762420.html so the side panel takes exactly 3 seconds to get off since I don't have the front cover on and the screws are loose so I can open the side door at any point in time. The problem is the smaller capacitors are hard to read since this is a very big case, otherwise I wouldn't be able to put all those 120mm, 90mm and 80mm fans in there I can even touch all the capacitors by hand but when the motherboard is 8.3" away from the side of the case and remember the case is underneath a desk with no light except using a 15watt florescent tube or 800 lumens flashlight which actually makes it even harder to read as it's too bright, the only way to read the capacitors is really to take the entire motherboard out as it's not like I can use a smartphone's camera and take a picture of the capacitors, the KZE and OST are easy but the Rubycon and GSC are the hard ones since try looking at them from 8.3" away with the motherboard standing up and you will see what I am talking about. The first CPU used to be able to do 232Mhz FSB at the low temperatures but has the high temperatures even when lowered back to 200Mhz FSB. The new CPU I used has only done 200Mhz FSB and still runs at the high temperatures. I took the SoundBlaster Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro soundcard out yesterday and put it back in when trying to make sure I had the current count of capacitors and now the temps are back at 38C full load even though Windows for whatever reason sees the soundcard as a PCI device and required reinstalling the drivers. In any case, the problem I forgot to mention is that randomly even opening just notepad will trigger a BSOD. The system will completely hang after a few days of uptime and for the past 3 weeks, it will hang with 24 hours max uptime.
              Last edited by Almighty1; 04-27-2014, 03:01 AM.

              Comment


                #47
                Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                When replacing capacitors, do people usually take one out then put a new one in, one at a time or do they just take all the same kind out and then put the new ones in one by one?
                I usually take out all from the same kind and then put the new ones in. Or I do them in groups. Each group is determined by what the caps in that group do (i.e. CPU VRM high, CPU Vcore, NB Vcc, RAM Vcc, RAM Vtt, etc.) - but that's more tedious as it requires mapping out power modules on the board (and not really necessary either... I just do it for fun).

                Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                Any recommendations for the 16V 100uF?
                Anything with a temperature rating of 105C will work fine here - just stick to Japanese caps. Panasonic FC, FR, FM, or Nichicon PW, PS, PM, HE, and HD, or Chemicon KY and KZE, or Rubycon ZL and ZLG are all fine choices. Even Nichicon VZ and Chemicon KMG will work (these two are general purpose caps, but rated for 105C).

                Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                Usually when there are problems with capacitors, is the voltage reported by the BIOS and things like Motherboard Monitor going to show it?
                Can't say for sure. I think it depends on how the sensors are implemented. I do recal from a thread on here very long time ago that someone did see slightly lower temps after they recapped their motherboad (most of the caps on that board were clearly failed, though).

                Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                ...and used the blow function of the MetroVac DataVac® Pro 3 so all the dust is gone
                Those vacs are excellent! Just make sure to hold the fan when you do that. Letting it wind-up can burn it out due to back-emf (or worse, make the fan explode if it is a cheapie).

                Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                In any case, the problem I forgot to mention is that randomly even opening just notepad will trigger a BSOD. The system will completely hang after a few days of uptime and for the past 3 weeks, it will hang with 24 hours max uptime.
                My bet is those GSC and OST caps are probably done for. However, do also check and/or replace the thermal compound on the Northbridge. Another thing worth mentioning is that... as much as you may not like to hear this, but you're dealing with an ASUS motherboard. In my experience, they can be finicky like that. My AsRock 939Dual-SATA2 (built by ASUS), for example, often locks up with certain activity on any of the SATA ports. It progressively got worse to the point where I couldn't use the SATA ports. The IDE doesn't like 40-pin cables, period. It has numerous other issues too and not the only ASUS I've had issues with.
                And if nothing else (after the recap, that is)... is the board very warped under the CPU socket? I find that many of the cooler retention implementations from the post-Pentium 3 and AMD s462 era warp the boards. And that can't be good for the BGA in the CPU socket! I wonder how many boards have actually failed due to this.
                Last edited by momaka; 04-29-2014, 02:07 PM.

                Comment


                  #48
                  Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                  Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                  Thanks for the answers!

                  Does anyone here know if thecapking.com carries genuine caps or not since they seem to also sell the kit online.
                  From the impression I get of the thecapking from the owner of this site, yes, he probably does carry genuine caps... You should try to support the owner of this site though, because he runs the forum.
                  "We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."

                  -Leonid Brezhnev (On the Yom Kippur War)

                  Comment


                    #49
                    Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                    Thanks for the input everyone!

                    I just want to be certain so I don't put the wrong replacement cap in the wrong place by accident as there is always a chance of anything happening.

                    This is what I picked up in which I've attached a picture of just for reference with the different views:

                    nichicon 1500uF 16v HZ(M) 105C H1217
                    nichicon 1500uF 10v HZ(M) 105C H1101
                    nichicon 1000uF 6.3v HN(M) 105C B1237
                    Rubycon 100uF 16v ZLH 105C A1024

                    Hopefully the last 2 are good since they only had HN for the third one and not HZ. Is Rubycon ZLH any good as I noticed only ZL and ZLG was mentioned. Nichicon doesn't seem to have anything in the 5mm size. Is the last set of numbers basically the manufacturing date code since while I don't know what the letters mean, am I correct that it's basically H1217 = 2012 17th week, H1101 = 2011 1st week, B1237 = 2012 37th week, and A1024 = 2010 24th week?

                    Just a question out of curiousity as it seems there is Japanese caps and Taiwanese and probably even Chinese caps, are there such things as European caps or US caps as far as branding is concerned? or do they just have poor quality?

                    On the ASUS P4C800-E, it seems like ASUS regulates the voltage so it's always a bit below the required voltage. I didn't mean the temps but even when my motherboard was new, I and others experienced it undervolts as this is what my results are:

                    Core 0: 1.57v-1.65v currently, unknown for 08/2003
                    Core 1: 3.10v-3.12v both currently in 08/2003
                    +3.3: 3.25v-3.28v currently, 3.28v-3.33v in 08/2003
                    +5.00: 4.97v-5.03v currently, 4.97v-5.00v in 08/2003
                    +12.00: 12.03v-12.16v currently, 11.84v-11.90v in 08/2003

                    Seems like some of the voltages are now higher than even needed while the +3.3 is lower than it used to be.

                    What are usually the symptoms of a bad CMOS battery since I can't remember when I last changed it to a Energizer as I know the original was KTS but when I used a Fluke Multimeter to test it, it was 3.10v while a new Panasonic is 2.9v.

                    The MetroVac's are pretty powerful but the problem is it seems to really blast everything, all the case fans I have are either Zalman or ADDA's high CFM fans which makes the system sound like a 747 all the time. I never had much luck with canned air as it's basically that cold stuff so sometimes the dust actually gets wet because of it.

                    I always replace the thermal interface material whenever I remove and replace the one in the heatsink fan. The only Thermal interface material that has dried out is the Nanotherm PCM+ which is a liquid phase changing material as it basically liquids when the machine is on and solids when the machine is off but it did dry out so that was after using Arctic Silver 1 and before switching to Arctic Silver 2, 3 and later 5. Nanotherm got bought out by Arctic Silver later on.

                    I always thought ASUS was supposed to be the most stable motherboard as originally I started with ASUS but it had jumpers and then went with ABIT with the BE6II because it was jumperless then back to ASUS because of the jumperless and the reviews. Isn't AsRock supposed to be a low-end brand though, I never knew it was built by ASUS as one of my friends said AsRock was basically a lower end ASUS but there was no way to like find if they are really connected or not, this was atleast 5+ years ago. I guess if all else fails, is there any motherboard that still has the PCI slots in addition to the AGP slots that runs on atleast a dual core processor as I am trying to save the I/O cards and the other reason is ever since moving here in 2009, I haven't unpacked the 100+ 25kg boxes because I'm going to do a complete house renovation with both vertical and horizontal additions so I didn't want to go buy a new system as I won't be able to use it during the 1+ year in construction so might as well start buying after the construction. I'm still actually on IDE hard drives even though the board supports SATA.

                    About the board being warped under the CPU socket, that I'll find out when I take disassemble the motherboard from the system either this or next weekend. As for heat, the P4 may be hot but it's nothing compared to the AMD Athlon's available in that same time period as those were hot and if you forgot the heatsink, it would crack the CPU as soon as you hit the power switch.

                    As for the owner of this site, I was thinking of getting poly caps from him instead but does doing a polymod have any performance or stability advantages over just using premium capacitors or is it just longer life?
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #50
                      Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                      Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                      Just a question out of curiousity as it seems there is Japanese caps and Taiwanese and probably even Chinese caps, are there such things as European caps or US caps as far as branding is concerned? or do they just have poor quality?
                      There are no US-based cap manufacturers AFAIK

                      Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                      What are usually the symptoms of a bad CMOS battery since I can't remember when I last changed it to a Energizer as I know the original was KTS but when I used a Fluke Multimeter to test it, it was 3.10v while a new Panasonic is 2.9v.
                      2.9V should be fine. If the battery was flat, the motherboard would lose the date, time and other BIOS settings every time you pulled the plug

                      Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                      I always thought ASUS was supposed to be the most stable motherboard as originally I started with ASUS but it had jumpers and then went with ABIT with the BE6II because it was jumperless then back to ASUS because of the jumperless and the reviews.
                      ASUS used to be the best years ago, in the days of Pentium 3s and early p4s. These days, though, they are one of the worst.

                      Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                      Isn't AsRock supposed to be a low-end brand though, I never knew it was built by ASUS as one of my friends said AsRock was basically a lower end ASUS but there was no way to like find if they are really connected or not, this was atleast 5+ years ago.
                      ASRock used to be owned by ASUS (and thus were about the only brand I hated even more than ASUS), but they broke away a few years ago. I really don't know what to think of them now that ASUS no longer owns them.

                      Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                      I guess if all else fails, is there any motherboard that still has the PCI slots in addition to the AGP slots that runs on at least a dual core processor
                      No. AGP died out long before dual core CPUs came into existence. You might be getting it confused with HyperThreaing.

                      Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                      As for the owner of this site, I was thinking of getting poly caps from him instead but does doing a polymod have any performance or stability advantages over just using premium capacitors or is it just longer life?
                      Polies have longer life than electrolytics, but that's about it. on an old board, it really doesn't matter - Japanese electrolytics will easily see it through to retirement.
                      I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

                      No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

                      Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

                      Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

                      Comment


                        #51
                        Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                        Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                        Hopefully the last 2 are good since they only had HN for the third one and not HZ. Is Rubycon ZLH any good as I noticed only ZL and ZLG was mentioned. Nichicon doesn't seem to have anything in the 5mm size. Is the last set of numbers basically the manufacturing date code since while I don't know what the letters mean, am I correct that it's basically H1217 = 2012 17th week, H1101 = 2011 1st week, B1237 = 2012 37th week, and A1024 = 2010 24th week?
                        Within the ZLx series, the only thing better than ZLH is ZLJ and ZLK AFAIK. Nichicon's equivalent would probably be something like HV series. Don't nitpick for the 16V 100uF cap, ZLG has a 6000 hour rating for the 5mm caps. Yes, you got the date code deciphering right.
                        Just a question out of curiousity as it seems there is Japanese caps and Taiwanese and probably even Chinese caps, are there such things as European caps or US caps as far as branding is concerned? or do they just have poor quality?
                        I think Phillips caps would count as European... As for American caps, Illinois Capacitor comes to mind. KXM series is excellent, but stay away from their big primary caps, they have quality control issues. They're manufactured in Asia though.
                        I never had much luck with canned air as it's basically that cold stuff so sometimes the dust actually gets wet because of it.
                        Get a shop vac and reverse the output... Take a gascan funnel and put it over the end of the vacuum hose... Go outside and blast the thing. Works everytime. The only thing that's better than that and really gets every spec is my brush attachment for my house vacuum.

                        I always thought ASUS was supposed to be the most stable motherboard as originally I started with ASUS but it had jumpers and then went with ABIT with the BE6II because it was jumperless then back to ASUS because of the jumperless and the reviews.
                        Asus used to be reputable... They probably have the best BIOS support in terms of longevity, but their boards have a habit of dying for no reason. Their old boards always used all high quality Rubycon caps. Those were the days. Abit boards were great, I had a BX6 2.0 and a BF6, the problem with them was when you started pushing them after a few years with high TDP CPUs like Tualatin. Didn't help that the selection of quality PSUs back then left a lot to be desired.
                        About the board being warped under the CPU socket, that I'll find out when I take disassemble the motherboard from the system either this or next weekend. As for heat, the P4 may be hot but it's nothing compared to the AMD Athlon's available in that same time period as those were hot and if you forgot the heatsink, it would crack the CPU as soon as you hit the power switch.
                        I wouldn't worry about any convex warping under the CPU. That's to be expected.
                        As for the owner of this site, I was thinking of getting poly caps from him instead but does doing a polymod have any performance or stability advantages over just using premium capacitors or is it just longer life?
                        No, don't do polymer... Stick with what you ordered. Do you have more than the three of each you show in the picture for all the caps on the board?
                        "We have offered them (the Arabs) a sensible way for so many years. But no, they wanted to fight. Fine! We gave them technology, the latest, the kind even Vietnam didn't have. They had double superiority in tanks and aircraft, triple in artillery, and in air defense and anti-tank weapons they had absolute supremacy. And what? Once again they were beaten. Once again they scrammed [sic]. Once again they screamed for us to come save them. Sadat woke me up in the middle of the night twice over the phone, 'Save me!' He demanded to send Soviet troops, and immediately! No! We are not going to fight for them."

                        -Leonid Brezhnev (On the Yom Kippur War)

                        Comment


                          #52
                          Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                          What's the actual difference between the Rubycon ZLH, ZLJ, and ZLK anyways? There aren't many choices for a 16v 100uF cap so I'm just going to stick with what I have but for the nichicon 1000uF 6.3v cap, is the Nichicon HM I have any good or what advantages are there as the local vendor appears to have stock of the HZ now.

                          As for caps, I meant where the company was based but isn't Vishay actually European though? How does one even know where the caps are manufactured even if it's a Japanese brand, they can always outsource it as there is no indication on the caps the country it was made in.

                          Thanks for the answer on the CMOS battery since I was wondering how people know when it was time to replace the battery, I read doing a google search that batteries actually last longer if the system was kept powered on.

                          What I meant was before I had the MetroVAC Blower/Vacuum, I used canned air and the thing is that it was nothing compared to the MetroVAC when it came to blowing... I do have the ebay kit to use on my Dyson Canister vacuum though.

                          As for ASUS, perhaps it's because they are getting into making other products too. They were still good up to 2003 or so up to the Socket 478 I think since I haven't paid much attention to it after that although I'm not much of a fan of the AMI BIOS they use as I prefer Phoenix myself. Who actually makes the best motherboards these days anyways?

                          You're right AGP died before Dual core CPUs were in existence as I remember people were running PCIe since Hyperthreading is basically something that started with the P4C I think in which each core will act like 2 processors or whatever the correct term is called. What I was trying to ask was are there any decent motherboards that can still handle the AGP video card and PCI cards that I have that will actually run flash without lag unlike the P4C-3.2Ghz so basically I would still need a motherboard + CPU and memory.

                          I have a total of 37 caps in total so the picture was only to show the front and back view of each type of cap and also the date code.

                          Comment


                            #53
                            Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                            Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                            What I was trying to ask was are there any decent motherboards that can still handle the AGP video card and PCI cards that I have that will actually run flash without lag unlike the P4C-3.2Ghz so basically I would still need a motherboard + CPU and memory.
                            You could go either AMD or Intel, I selected two boards with the latest sockets from them both.
                            The AMD setup wins in the graphics while the Intel has stronger CPU performance.
                            They should offer good longlivity and good integrated graphics performance.
                            I tried to find boards that offer many legacy ports, they do however lack IDE which you say that you currently use.
                            (Such boards do exists aswell but they had fewer amount of legacy PCI ports, and I don't know how many you need)

                            Intel LGA-1150
                            Gigabyte GA-P85-D3
                            Intel Core i3 4330 3,5GHz Socket 1150 (Intel HD Graphics 4600)

                            AMD Socket FM2+
                            MSI A78-G41-PCMATE
                            AMD A-Series A10-7700k 3,5GHz Socket FM2+ (AMD Radeon R7)

                            You would also need some DDR3 memory, atleast 1600Mhz in speed.
                            And if you are not sure about your current PSU I'd recommend the Seasonic G-360 360W.
                            You never mentioned what type of graphics card you have now, nor if you do any gaming at all.
                            But these should offer better performance through their integrated graphics than whatever you could have on AGP in your current system...
                            The fact that it's all integrated in the CPU is of course nice for many reasons.
                            If you couple this with a SSD for the Windows installation and then some regular harddrives either via SATA or your current ones via a PATA PCI card.
                            Or some other mobo that already has it built in you should have a very fast and nice system!
                            "The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it."

                            Comment


                              #54
                              Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                              Above where products I found via a Swedish search website, below is direct link to other similar products on Newegg instead:

                              $72.99 MSI A88X-G41 PC Mate FM2+
                              http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130758

                              $159.99 AMD A10-7700K
                              http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819113360

                              -------------------------
                              $87.99 GIGABYTE GA-P85-D3
                              http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128606

                              $139.99 Intel Core i3-4330 Haswell (Intel HD Graphics 4600)
                              http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819116945
                              "The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it."

                              Comment


                                #55
                                Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                                i did a few of these in all polys.
                                having trouble finding the thread.
                                they were better than new and are still going 5 years later.so yes these are fine to poly.
                                most were 820@2.5

                                Comment


                                  #56
                                  Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                                  Here is something even more interesting, released just now.
                                  The new Z97 chipset, has also support for M.2 (NGFF) SSD's
                                  So you could pop one of those right onto the MiniPCIe port on the mobo...

                                  $149.99 GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD3H Intel Z97
                                  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128710

                                  $99.99 Crucial M550 CT128M550SSD4 M.2 Type 2280 128GB SSD
                                  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148797

                                  EDIT: Sorry but the Newegg search trolled me, this was what I was searching for: http://geizhals.at/eu/gigabyte-ga-z97-d3h-a1107958.html
                                  Last edited by Per Hansson; 05-02-2014, 01:47 PM.
                                  "The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it."

                                  Comment


                                    #57
                                    Re: Asus P4C800-E Deluxe rejuvenation

                                    Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                                    On the ASUS P4C800-E, it seems like ASUS regulates the voltage so it's always a bit below the required voltage.
                                    Never trust the onboad sensors - they are rarely correct. If you want to check voltage on something, always do it with a multimeter.

                                    Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                                    Thanks for the answer on the CMOS battery since I was wondering how people know when it was time to replace the battery, I read doing a google search that batteries actually last longer if the system was kept powered on.
                                    Yes, if the system was never or unpluged only for brief periods of time, the battery can last many many years. That said, some motherboard have very good design, and their CMOS battery will last for many years even when they are unplugged for a very long time. On the other hand, some motherboards like the one in my Dell OptiPlex 170L are pigs - leave the system unplugged for 2 months (which I do when I leave my dorm for the summer), and it gets completely drained. The ASUS P4SD from HP DC5000 and D530 SFF boxes seems to be in a similar board.

                                    If in doubt, just check the voltage on the battery with a multimeter. If more than 2.7V, you won't get problems. Below that, some motherboards can get picky.

                                    Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                                    I always thought ASUS was supposed to be the most stable motherboard
                                    Not anymore. As others noted, they often seem to die for no reason or they become finicky. Also, on OEM systems, they often skip many caps and jumper through sections where you are supposed to have filter components.

                                    Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                                    Isn't AsRock supposed to be a low-end brand though, I never knew it was built by ASUS as one of my friends said AsRock was basically a lower end ASUS but there was no way to like find if they are really connected or not, this was atleast 5+ years ago.
                                    AsRock used to be ASUS's "experimental" brand for a while. They'd try funky designs that other boards didn't have. For example, my AsRock 939Dual-SATA2 has both AGP 8x and PCI-E 16x. Then there's the funky "future CPU support" socket, which looks exactly like an AGP socket, but in a different location. With a special riser card from AsRock, I can fit an AM2/S940 CPU in that board instead of S939 CPU. And lastly, that board has both SATA 1 and SATA 2 support, along with legacy IDE. So it's a very interesting design to say the least!

                                    But that aside, the power regulating modules on the board have terrible design. For example, the MOSFETs for regulating the SB and RAM voltage get so hot that they made the board darker around them. This is a sight often seen on ASUS boards of the same era. And like ASUS, the AsRock of that era have the cap polarity marking "backwards". So I am pretty confident ASUS did design them at one point or another. Such a shame.

                                    Of course, this was all a few years back, as you noted.

                                    Nowadays, all of the new boards have that black or dark brown color and it really is hard to tell who made which board. Also hard to tell if ASUS fixed their "hot-MOSFET" design from the Socket T / Socket 939/AM2 era.

                                    Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                                    I'm still actually on IDE hard drives even though the board supports SATA.
                                    Unless you are using a fairly new fairly high capacity HDD, SATA vs IDE doesn't make too much of a difference.

                                    Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                                    What I was trying to ask was are there any decent motherboards that can still handle the AGP video card and PCI cards that I have that will actually run flash without lag unlike the P4C-3.2Ghz
                                    3.2 GHz P4 with HT? That should still be able to handle Flash okay-ish. I don't know if YouTube will run in 720p for you, but 480p should be okay. As I mentioned, I'm on a 2.8 GHz P4 with HT and just a year ago, I still had no problem with 720p Flash. Just ditch Internet Explorer! IE6 can't render today's web pages properly anymore and the newer IEs are too bloated and very sluggish. Chrome is a resource hog too.

                                    If nothing else, get an ATI Radeon HD2xxx series or newer or nVidia GeForce 8x00 or newer video card. Those usually have hardware H.264 decoding, so Flash videos will run very smooth even on a very slow CPU. You'd also be able to watch full 1080p (both MVK and HD-DVD/Blu-Ray media) without problems - something that P4 CPU just won't handle all by itself.

                                    Of course, the only problem to that suggestion above is finding an AGP version of those video cards. They do tend to be expensive. But if you get lucky somewhere somehow, it should give that old PC a run for its money for at least a few more years.

                                    Originally posted by Almighty1 View Post
                                    There aren't many choices for a 16v 100uF cap so I'm just going to stick with what I have but for the nichicon 1000uF 6.3v cap, is the Nichicon HM I have any good or what advantages are there as the local vendor appears to have stock of the HZ now.
                                    Pretty much anything other than the caps around the CPU does not need to be as low-ESR as Nichicon HZ or HN, so HM should be more than fine. There aren't really any advatnages or disadvantages. Most regulation on the rest of the board is probably linear, so very low-ESR caps aren't exactly required. The Northbridge is the only one that usually has buck-type regulation besides the CPU, but it draws much less power - so again, very low-ESR caps are not required.
                                    Last edited by momaka; 05-02-2014, 05:13 PM.

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