Thank you to the guys at HEGE supporting Badcaps [ HEGE ] [ HEGE DEX Chart ]

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Help on replacing USB port

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Help on replacing USB port

    I just went to plug in a USB cable to the soltek board I successfully recapped, to find that the plug didn't stay in.

    Now I notice that the middle plastic bit is missing and the pins are bent.

    I can easily scavenge a new port off a scrap motherboard, but the question is how to desolder a new one without damaging it, and how to remove the broken one without ruining the board?

    Obviously there's more pins than a capacitor, not going to get away with the same removal method...
    "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
    -David VanHorn

    #2
    Re: Help on replacing USB port

    almost impossible.
    if it's a USB+LAN port, it's even more difficult.
    the data pins are doable (using wick or solder sucker) but i've found the biggest problem to be the shielding metal which is REALLY undesolderable. you usually don't have good access to it from above so you can't cut it off.

    you'd need a 100W iron but I doubt the board stands that much heat.

    if it's your own board, you can solder a USB bracket (for the rear slots) to the data/power lines. a bit ugly, but it works.
    "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." - H.L. Mencken

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Help on replacing USB port

      Try a workaround: a PCI USB 2 card (better those with Nec chipset) or an external hub.

      Zandrax
      Have an happy life.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Help on replacing USB port

        Well, I gave it a go anyway..... here's the story:

        Having several completely trashed boards was helpful, first candidate was a socket 7 something which I had already removed a lot of spare things from and decided to test an idea I had

        Took the solder wick to the data pins, they came undone easily, but there was still the shield to contend with... I figured I would do that one like a capacitor, being enough room between each side I heated up 2 of the legs from one side, and pulled to tilt it half out (note: this is where 2 soldering irons and another person come in handy).

        That side came free pretty easily, but when I did the same thing to the other side, I ran into problems. One of the data pins must have still had a bit of solder in the via when I pulled, and it got rather bent before letting go. Upon trying to straighten it, it broke off. Still, I knew the idea worked.

        So I got myself another board (CPU socket was broken) and proceeded to do the same method, this time making sure all pins were clear first! It came out with minimal hassle. (note: having some sort of heat insulation between your finger and the metal shield is a good idea here...)

        So now I had a new USB socket to put in the motherboard. Question was, could I get the old one out of the good board without causing damage?

        Well this is where I decided to get creative - instead of trying to keep the socket intact (as it was already broken anyway) I decided to dismantle it. Using pliers I broke the plastic inside part out and was left with a metal shield and the data pins. I then cut the shield in half along the top and pulled each half and each pin out by heating and removing the usual way. Only one iron was used.



        The leftovers of the broken USB socket. It's still broken




        The holes cleaned out ready for the new socket



        Soldering in the new one was as easy as pie, of course. Then to test if it worked.

        Before thinking you've destroyed your board, please plug this in first. it helps a lot:






        End result: 2 new working USB ports on the board
        Attached Files
        "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
        -David VanHorn

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Help on replacing USB port

          Wow!! Nice work there.

          Oh and by the way. Congratulations!

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Help on replacing USB port

            good work indeed
            capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Help on replacing USB port

              Great job!

              My buddy (electrical enginner) did one of those repairs once with the exact same problem of broken USB ports, but I was surprised as he did it like a standard routine repair with no difficulty.
              My gaming PC:
              AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition 3.3GHz Six-Core CPU (Socket AM3)
              ASUS M4A77TD AMD 770 AM3 Motherboard
              PowerColor AMD Radeon RX 480 8GB GDDR5 PCI-Express x16 3.0 Graphics Card
              G.SKILL Value Series 16GB DDR3-1333 RAM (4x4GB dual channel)
              TOSHIBA DT01ACA200 2TB 3.5" SATA HDD (x2)
              WD Caviar Green WD20EARX 2TB 3.5" SATA HDD
              ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channel PCI sound card
              Antec HCG-750M 750W ATX12V v2.32 80 PLUS BRONZE Power Supply
              Antec Three Hundred Mid-Tower Case
              Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
              Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Help on replacing USB port

                Nice work: reading Kikkoman words, I doubted it could be feasible.

                Zandrax
                Have an happy life.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Help on replacing USB port

                  I've done this once, but it took me forever. Eventually got it out and replaced but there was some cosmetic damage from burning the PCB with the solder sucker.
                  I like that idea of cutting up the shielding from above.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Help on replacing USB port

                    Well for that kind of task i still have my 80w cheapo iron.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X