![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Quite sure its the power board at fault.
The treadmill does not power up, the LCD display flashes on and off, almost as though the power supply is cycling on and off. Getting around 290v steady on the main filter cap though takes a few seconds to creep up to that reading. Voltage reads about 8v on the rail to the display/control panel but keeps dropping (fluctuating around 6-8v), pretty sure this is not enough to drive the lcd /control panel but could be the power supply shutting down before the volts can get high enough. The power supply board and components look ok on inspection. There is an LED on the PS bd but it does not light up or flash - this I believe is used for troubleshooting. Would greatly appreciate any guidance. Last edited by notallbad; 05-04-2017 at 12:46 PM.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 39,206
|
![]() "Getting around 290v steady on the main filter cap though takes a few seconds to creep up to that reading"?
Your incoming AC is 230VAC so the DCV between the two legs of the main filter cap should be around 325VDC. So verify that your meter is OK, the incoming AC is OK, and the main filter cap is OK.
__________________
Never stop learning Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 Last edited by budm; 05-04-2017 at 01:22 PM.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Found a shorted schokty diode SS310 (DD3), located under the cap immediately next to the transformer.
What alternative can I use temporarily just to see if it gets it working? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() 20170503_212718.jpg
20170503_212657.jpgThanks Budm Shall check main filter cap and get back to you, it does read around 450uF in-circuit using a cap meter. 240v def coming into board across AC1 and AC2 via IEC kettle lead, 8A fuse, rocker switch, EMI filter, transformer. Last edited by notallbad; 05-04-2017 at 04:49 PM.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Powered back up with one leg of the faulty DD3 diode legs 'lifted' and it powers up fine. Lcd lit but beeping an error, understandable as ancillaries disconnected i.e incline motor and incline sensor, treadmill drive motor.
Really need to find an alternative diode! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: California
Posts: 2,169
|
![]() ss310 is a 100v 3A schottky diode made by several companies under different part numbers.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Would a 1N5401 suffice?
Somewhat larger in physical size but there is adequate space to fit it in. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2005
City & State: Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 1,997
|
![]() Quote:
What are the brands on the electrolytic capacitors on this board?
__________________
My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 26,678
|
![]() here you go,
3 different sizes to choose. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rectif...iodes/9179219/ http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rectif...iodes/9179209/ http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rectif...iodes/9179164/ so what is the EXACT length & width of the original? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Quote:
Fitted a 1N5401 and it seems to all be working. Shall replace with a Schottky over the next few days before it gets used too much! |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Quote:
Thanks shall take a look at those equivalents above. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Just to confirm, all caps are Nicon branded with the exception of the filter cap which is UUcap branded.
Whilst it has been working with the temporary diode I have now replaced it with a Schottky SK310A. Still prefer the 9 pence fix but paid £2.64 for 5 rather than £1.64 just for one so do have spares if ever needed in the future. Will update on the performance but it is working still! Last edited by notallbad; 05-14-2017 at 08:28 AM.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() My partner informs me that there is a high pitched 'buzzing' coming from the power supply. Not something I heard but being somewhat older than her that probably makes sense.
I can confirm that there is an oscillating 'buzz' coming from the diode/ transformer/cap area, can't quite narrow it down exactly. So, I put the 1N5401 back and although it is 'buzzing/humming' it is only just very audible with my ear very very close to the unit which is probably a tolerable/allowable/acceptable amount. Now, what could be the cause? The diodes have specs near enough identical from what I can see with the exception that the 1N5401 is not a Schottky fast acting. Could it be the capacitance (Cj)? 1N5401 30pF SK310A 250pF SS310 190pF Photo shows a comparison between the three for reference. Last edited by notallbad; 05-15-2017 at 12:53 PM.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Or possibly the Ifsm (Peak forward surge current) rating?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Might also be worth mentioning that manufacturer specs seem to differ.
Multicomp Ifsm 100A MIC Ifsm 80A What the hell??? Surely if the part is an SS310 the specs should be the same regardless of manufacturer. Or is it the way in which the specs are presented, peak forward surge current different to forward surge current perhaps? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: SWANSEA
My Country: United Kingdom
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 15
|
![]() Hi. I have the exact same treadmill with the exact same fault ! (Well, the symptoms are the same - instead of powering up, it pulses about twice a second, as if the PSU is cycling).
Have you got any further with yours ? I'm going to take a look at the diode you mentioned on mine. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
City & State: UK
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 963
|
![]() Doubt it will be the same diode causing your fault, with the diode completely removed it still powers on albeit with the error code.
Remove the power/control board and inspect for obvious signs of damage etc... If nothing visibly wrong begin on-board testing of the diodes, resistors etc I can confirm results if anything looks untoward by comparing results before you start removing/replacing components.( Obviously some components give slightly differing results on-board than off, they may also differ from my results but at least be of some help). I have put the 'temp' diode back for now as its working and partner can continue using it. Keep us/me informed of any developments. Also confirm that your board is the same as mine and whether the led on the power/control board is lit or not or flashing. Last edited by notallbad; 05-20-2017 at 02:48 PM.. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
City & State: SWANSEA
My Country: United Kingdom
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 15
|
![]() I haven't had a chance to look at it again yet, but you mention on-board testing of diodes & resistors... How does that work ? How can I test a diode, for example, without lifting one leg ? Likewise, resistors aren't going to read their actual values if they are in a circuit are they ?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|