junky Jetway P4MDPT board

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

what the...?! sanyo cap with a plus vent?! totally screams fake to me...

Yikes! QFT!

[zunasthegreat]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

The other two caps (5V+3.3V) show super high capacity and it seems their about to meet their doom.

Replaced all SC caps with the following ->

3.3V -> 2X KY 2200uf 10V (capacity downgrade from 6.3V 3300uf)
5V -> 2X KY 2200uf 10V
12V -> 2X Nichicon HD 2200uf 16V
5VSB -> 2X Nichicon PW 1000uf 10V

in any case getting 10mm diameter caps is really hard ...

[RJARRRPCGP]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

That cap looks like an e-tailer-scammer special.

[momaka]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

I think 3.3V line uses MBR2045CT, hard to say for sure cause its well hidden. To improve this psu's nudity I've installed some X Y Caps. All filter caps are 1500uf LOWESR from YHC? with space for one cap for each as usual. I'll put Lelon RGA 2200/3300uf there and will let it be. The 3.3V line on DMM went up to ~3.15V on the Jetway P4 board and shows around ~3.4V on a C2Q P31 board.

Ah, I think I know exactly what's going on now - you have one of those "super-group regulation" PSUs, like this POS Cyberlink PSU here:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39222

^ In essence, that PSU doesn't have a mag-amp or linear regulator circuit for the 3.3V rail. Instead, it just derives the 3.3V rail from its own separate transformer tap just like the 5V and 12V rails... and so the 3.3V will vary quite wild-ly with any load. Cheap PSUs like this are some of the worst garbage you can get. I wouldn't put one of these in *ANY* PC.

The picture of yours here confirms you have the same design in that PSU. IMO, you shouldn't waste any time on PSUs like that, unless you really have nothing else around and need to put a system together... but even then, I'd say that's a questionable endeavor. (And if you've read my posts long enough on BCN, you will find out that I am the type of person to try to reuse/rebuild just about any PSU... but some of the cheapo PSUs like this, even I don't bother with, lol. )

Another nasty discovery upon cleaning a chieftec aps-500 (10y old PSU). One Teapo SC is bloated and others are starting to raise in capacity (pics bellow).

That's a Teapo-cal failure mode for the SC series.
10 years is about the right age too, if not a pretty good run, I must say. Would like to see Cheng/Chang/Chong/X garbage make it that long, but I'm pretty sure they won't.

The very crammed area around 3.3V forced me to swap that cap for a 2200uf KY 10V as my other GP caps are Nichicon VZ 3300uf 6.3 and lelon GP.

That's good anyways, since KY series tends to be a good replacement for Teapo SC. The lower capacity will just mean you won't be able to pull as much power as the label says... but that's rarely a concern if you just want a basic system build anyways.

PSU is Group Regulated with proper equipment, nothing fancy.

Nothing fancy, sure... but at least 100000 times better than that crappy Powertech supergroup-regulated POS.

Replaced all SC caps with the following ->

3.3V -> 2X KY 2200uf 10V (capacity downgrade from 6.3V 3300uf)
5V -> 2X KY 2200uf 10V
12V -> 2X Nichicon HD 2200uf 16V
5VSB -> 2X Nichicon PW 1000uf 10V

Looks good to me.

in any case getting 10mm diameter caps is really hard ...

Wait until you run into PSU with custom-order 8 mm caps... or even 6.3 mm skinny tall caps. I haven't, but I've heard terrible stories.

For 10 mm, and depending on what e-tailers you have/use/deliver to you, look for these"
United Chemicon KYB series for 16V, 2200 uF in 10 mm dia.
Rubycon ZLQ series for 6.3V, 3900 uF in 10 mm dia. (these can be used on 3.3V or 5V rails.)

^ At least those have been my go-to caps in 10 mm dia and higher capacity (particularly when needing to replace 3300 uF ones.) I still haven't found a good source of 3300 uF 16V caps in 10 mm. Badcaps.net used to have Samxon RS, but not sure if available anymore. I think only member behemot on this forum has some skinny custom-ordered caps that can fit newer PSUs.

[zunasthegreat]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

13007 transistors : Check
One Cap per output wonder : Check
Full nudity : Check
1.5mm metal for heatsink : Check
No 3.3V toroid : Check
No PI Coils : Check
Awe-sum quality cap only : Check
AWG20 quality cabling : Check
Classy Coolbox Fan : Check
... we have another winner

Its the perfect psu for LoLs and having fun with bad-caps or maybe the perfect April's fool gift.

[zunasthegreat]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

That's good anyways, since KY series tends to be a good replacement for Teapo SC. The lower capacity will just mean you won't be able to pull as much power as the label says... but that's rarely a concern if you just want a basic system build anyways.

Do you think Panasonic FJ 3300uf 6.3V will make things better for the 3.3V line ?
Had nothing to do due to weather and was about to even check some GP Nichicon VZ there for lols. I also think that it uses 6 SBR's (2 for each rail maybe?) and 12V Rail had 2X 30A SBR's, Its so crowded area and pretty tough to read the type. Those SBR's are TO-247 and I think It was U30D60 something, not 100% sure.

[momaka]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

Do you think Panasonic FJ 3300uf 6.3V will make things better for the 3.3V line ?

Don't know.
FJ is motherboard grade low-ESR, so quite a bit lower than KY. Most likely the PSU will work fine with it, given that this is an FSP design, so I don't expect it to oscillate or do anything crazy. But the ripple may still end up the same due to increased noise from output filter ringing. The only way to know for sure is to load the PSU and measure the output with an o-scope.

I also think that it uses 6 SBR's (2 for each rail maybe?)

I wouldn't be surprised. Actually, that's pretty normal for better-built PSUs that tout higher efficiency (especially anything 80+ that isn't synchronous rectification.)

Those SBR's are TO-247 and I think It was U30D60 something, not 100% sure.

MBR-, SBL-, SBR-, STPR-.... there are a number of different parts out there... but yeah, first number is typically the maximum average current, and the second is the breakdown voltage... and 30 Amp, 60V would be pretty standard there. On the half-bridge PSUs, though, 60V rectifiers on the 12V rail may not be enough sometimes, since with half-bridge, the reverse voltage spikes will be 2x higher than with forward topologies. So for H-bridge PSUs, aim for 100V parts to be on the safe side, unless the PSU came with 60V parts to begin with.

13007 transistors : Check
One Cap per output wonder : Check
Full nudity : Check
1.5mm metal for heatsink : Check
No 3.3V toroid : Check
No PI Coils : Check
Awe-sum quality cap only : Check
AWG20 quality cabling : Check
Classy Coolbox Fan : Check
... we have another winner

All perfect, except for one missing item: a POWMAX label.

[goodpsusearch]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

Please NEVER connect Powertech/Hantol/Approx/Aqprox power supplies to any valuable equipment.

If you search this forum you will find some of those that I have posted pics of he internals. They even use fake Passive PFC. I have seen myself many of those burn up and take with them motherboards and hdds. They are cheap, cost 11-20 euros here and they claim 450-600W but the ripple they deliver is out of spec even at 50W. And they explode at 150-200W

[zunasthegreat]

Re: junky Jetway P4MDPT board

Read an old article from goodpsusearch talking about a DR-8600BTX that I just have around with different sticker (FORCE). Internals look good nice heatsink/filters/bridge diode even PPFC it seems. All filter caps (Y? smthing brand) are either busted or have super high capacity. Did a quick recap with Lelon RGA's and some KY 2200uf 10V / Nichicon HD/HV and some nichicon 1000uf PW for 5VSB. It's among the best gutless wonders Deer/LC/Premier I've seen so far and it even uses 18 AWG Cables