1.- Recaped.
2.- Removed all the output wires except the following ones:
Black,Red,Yellow,Orange and Green.
3.- Replaced the Standard fan with a 4 blue LED one, to provide a "LOAD" for the SMPS to work
4.- Wired the ground and green wires together so when the switch is turned on, the PSU "starts".
5.- Wired the 5v,12v,3.3v and GND to a corresponding banana post so voltages can be used.
I use it to power on LCDs, use my "CCFL tester", and other applications. Due to the (somewhat) high amp rate of the output, it is really useful.
Attached Files
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
nice psu i built one using an old ibm AT 200w psu. put 10 ohm 25w res across the 5v rall to act as load used 25w as its in a fined ally case and panel mounter so the case works as heatsink used AT unit as then no need to worry about the power on wires
loads of stuff on the web
***** just remember no current limiting on pc psu's **********
nice psu i built one using an old ibm AT 200w psu. put 10 ohm 25w res across the 5v rall to act as load used 25w as its in a fined ally case and panel mounter so the case works as heatsink used AT unit as then no need to worry about the power on wires
loads of stuff on the web
***** just remember no current limiting on pc psu's **********
I have another one built from an AT PSU.
Attached Files
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
I suspect that this IC is the lamp controller. It probably has a separate current feedback pin for each of the four lamps. Perhaps monitoring the voltages on these pins may identify one which is significantly different to the others.
The photo is very blurry, but it appears to me that there is a current feedback resistor near each of the HV transformers.
Here is the service manual for a Mitsubishi Diamond View DV172 LCD monitor:
Page 45 shows an inverter circuit using the TL1451ACN chip.
Here is its datasheet:
Pins 14 and 13 are the inputs for one error amp, while pins 3 and 4 are the inputs for the second. Pins 3 and 14 sense the lamp current, while pins 4 and 13 set the brightness level and are driven from the controller board.
When the circuit is operating correctly, all four pins should be at the same voltage. AIUI, if one pin differs from the other three, then the corresponding lamp circuit has a problem.
Pin 15 (SCP) provides short circuit protection after a delay determined by the capacitor on that pin.
Your monitor may have a different circuit, but the principle should be the same. If you feel comfortable with it, I'd measure the voltages on the abovementioned pins. Using test lamps may be less risky, though.
My Dell LCD monitor blew up yesterday morning. I had left it on overnight and when I went to check email in the morning it was blank and although the power light button was lit green and I thought it was asleep, I could not get it to come on. So I did a hard reboot and when I did the screen flashed a generic DELL logo blinking that and blank every half second. I rebooted again and unplugged the monitor apparently too soon after shutdown and that finished it off. It would not power on at all. I found a video showing LCD monitor repair on youtube - the guy was replacing only the burnt capacitors. I followed his method to get my monitor apart and found just as he had suggested, several capacitors blown. My board is the same as shown by the original post in this thread. Same Elite poor quality caps. I found the digit-key website and am ordering the caps with extras since they all have a lifespan so that I can replace them again down the road if need be. In my case 4 or the 470 mF caps are blown and 2 of the 1000mF are blown.Some of the others may be blown as well but I'm hoping not since they are not bulged on top like the definitely blown caps. I am not an electronics guy but have soldering iron. Can someone recommend the right type of solder for this job? Thanks very much.
I would recommend leaded solder 40/60 but dont know if you can get it in the US.
0.75mm with flux. You will also need extra flux and soldermop /braid.
I would seriously consider replacing all the caps apart from the BIG one rather than
buying extra caps now. Your bulbs/transformer are not going to last for ever and if they go you will want to upgrade.
... lets try to resurrect this topic for a few quick replies. Yesterday, in my absence E196FPb went blank. To make long story short - when machine boots up I can see diagnostic screen, no problem. As soon as its time for windows it goes blank. Cycling power brings perfect picture back for a few seconds - just enough to press menu button and select reset to factory or something like that. My question here is about success rate if only caps replacement involved. Realistically speaking I am not up to par to monkey around with another piece of DELL junk. Visual indicates previous manual repair work around C828 C829 C837 C838. Just quick responses please, about viability of the limited intervention, if possible.
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