The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
It's a Teapo series that Cornell Dubilier sells under the Mallory brand. I've never had a problem with the standard CDE series, but those Mallory caps and Illinois Capacitor seem a little unreliable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erg2vyJ2UOk
(I'm tired)Last edited by lti; 09-16-2022, 08:12 PM.Comment
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
I was repairing this Sony balalaika and found three faulty ones (short circuit!!!) capacitor , I do not know this manufacturer. Perhaps their breakdown was influenced by the fact that their operating voltage is 10 volts, and according to the service manual, capacitors with an operating voltage of 25 volts should have been used.Comment
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Old Elite PW 450v 120uf serving as a primary cap in my old Dell 2407. There is some leakage and corrosion on the positive terminal, seemingly a rather common failure on this model of monitor. As is well-documented on this forum, the terminal will eventually get eaten through and cause a bunch of components to blow up. Fortunately, my monitor was still functional when I found the bad cap. Otherwise, I would have had to replace a LOT more components!
All of the other caps (Elite ES, Elite EJ, TAICON HD, Lelon RGA, FOAI CD112A) seemed fine.Last edited by TH1813254617; 10-02-2022, 08:22 PM.Comment
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Last Sunday 2 Nichicon (I don't know the series, it has a strange numbering) passed away after 58,000 hours of service, I turned off the monitor of my server to make some changes, and it never turned on again, I replaced it with 2 nichicon of a old broken MSI board, and it's back to life.
I hope I can finish my CCFL tube lifespan experiment, it's still bright enough for the hours it's been working.Gaming pc:
nVidia RTX 3080 TI, Corsair RM750I.
Workshop PC:
Intel core i5 8400, Intel SSD 256GB, nvidia gt1030, asus b365-a.
Server:
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
The blown Nichicon caps are HD series.PeteS in CA
Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
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To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
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Gaming pc:
nVidia RTX 3080 TI, Corsair RM750I.
Workshop PC:
Intel core i5 8400, Intel SSD 256GB, nvidia gt1030, asus b365-a.
Server:
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Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them.
My computer doubles as a space heater.
Permanently Retired Systems:
RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again.
Asus Q550LF (Old main laptop, 2014-2022) - Decommissioned and stripped due to a myriad of problems, the main battery bloating being the final nail in the coffin.
Kooky and Kool Systems
- 1996 Power Macintosh 7200/120 + PC Compatibility Card - Under Restoration
- 1993 Gateway 2000 80486DX/50 - Fully Operational/WIP
- 2004 Athlon 64 Retro Gaming System - Indefinitely Parked
- Main Workstation - Fully operational!
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Main rig:
Gigabyte B75M-D3H
Core i5-3470 3.60GHz
Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5
16GB DDR3-1600
Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW
FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped)
120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB
Delux MG760 case
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
too lazy to take pics, but it never ceases to amaze me what could get screwed by using bad caps…I'm in the process of refurbishing ceiling lights with radar-based sensor, all together with E27 socket put into single (removable, held via 4 screws) plastic module in those lights
in pretty much all of them (25 units), some of two 100/16 and single 22/25 caps are bad, quite often all three of them, often having ESR as high as 150 ohms; all three are GP parts, sometimes rated just 85 °C, but even 105 °C, they all get bad after like 4-5 years of use
in about half of those lights, also the main film cap (0,56 uF, ordinary non safety cap), lowering the voltage from mains via its impedance, is totaly bad, or out of spec at least (yet still working), replacing that is kinda more complicated as many of the X-rated caps are too big to get there (and even those which are not too big, are still a pain to squeeze there)
symptom? besides those totaly dead lights, absolute majority is either on 24/7, or at least during the whole night, they simly never stop holding the relay, which not only burns thousands on electricity a year, but also all those magnificient LED replacements die one after another, working all the time, with either their circuits, or the LEDs themselves, burning like crazy (when they get SO hot), so where's all that environment-friendliness we all hear about? I'll tell ya, that's all BULLSHIT; ordinary incadescent bulbs do about the same life running all the time and I am not really sure, if 40W bulb could even burn as much in electricity over 8W LED which on the other hand costs at least five times as much in storesLast edited by Behemot; 03-12-2023, 07:56 AM.Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry!Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Exclusive caps, meters and more!Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!Comment
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Brand new 48v 1800w BLDC motor driver killed by undersized/poorly made capacitors.
Brand: SLF
Series: BT
Sizes: 470uf 63v, 47uf 63v.
Total number of failed capacitors: 4
All four capacitors are located across the supply lines, and thus shouldn't experience a lot of stress, meaning either the heat killed them ( as the driver did get hot as hell after 10 minutes of use), though this doesn't explain why every other capacitor on the board was left untouched, which leads me to believe that the capacitors overstated their voltage rating, which doesn't seem unlikely, as other companies have done that before. But As a result of the failure, at least four or more MOSFETS have been blown, not sure if it's damaged the motor, but doing a continuity test on it shows really low resistance on all three windings.
Some additional details:
The electrolyte from the capacitors managed to pool up in one corner of the board, causing corrosion in that corner, the electrolyte was also still wet upon taking apart the controller housing, Even managed to spill a bit on my shirt while taking it apart. Before I do much else with it, I'm going to contact the seller of the kit to see if I can get a replacement or refund for the blown controller. And then I may try to repair this one assuming I'm not required to send it back for replacement.I'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best.Comment
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Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
Forgot to mention, The controller only saw about 30 minutes of service before it died. I also just noticed there's a layer of Kapton tape between the MOSFETs and their heatsink, the MOSFETs themselves are all Skysilicon SKD502T parts, rated at 85v, 120A max current. I also noticed that the 5v auxiliary supply appears to be based around a standard two transistor design, even going as far as to use a MJE13003 as the main switching transistor. And the main controller chip seems to be a programmable microcontroller, which basically means if it's fried then there's probably no chance of repairing this thing.
I've also attached some more photos, this time focusing more on the corrosion caused by the capacitor electrolyte.
Edit: just spotted some signs of overheating around a couple MOSFETs, including melted solder both on the board and in the case.Last edited by RukyCon; 05-03-2023, 07:21 PM.I'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best.Comment
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For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).
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by Per HanssonWhile our PSU hall of shame thread is fun I thought It'd be fun to have a ripple hall of shame thread too
I'll go first out, it's an industrial PSU that offers +15v -15v -5v +5v rails.
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The caps for this have gone a bit high ESR
The measured ripple is around 1700mV, or 1.7v!
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