First circuit design needs to be checked please?
Collapse
X
-
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
No need for that added Rb.
R1 is the main one that supply the Base current for that transistor.
As REDWIRE explained, R1 resistance needs to go down to provide bias to put the transistor in saturation mode, the Value of R1 based on what the beta of the transistor is, R2 should have about 10% of the base current, so the current through R1 will be Ir2 + Ibe.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
@5A of Ic and Base current of 0.5A the Vsat (Voltage between Emitter and Collector) of the transistor is 1.3V. so if you have 5A flowing through the transistor, the power dissipation will be 1.3V x 5A = 6.5W!
So the more Voltage drops between E and C the more power dissipation onn the transistor will occur = more power dissipation. You want to have the lowest possible Vce when transistor is turned on. Just check the DCV between E and C to see what you have when the solenoid is operating.
What is the resistance of the solenoid?Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
See the clip I attached from the datasheet ... hfe is beta, right? But is it 20? Or is it 5? ...
sigpicComment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
I measured 7 ohms with my Fluke from the solenoid. Is that the right way to do it or should I find the datasheet on it? From what I remember, coil resistance isn't linear ONLY when AC is involved...???sigpicComment
-
Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
That means the Transistor has to be bias on enough the let 1.7A of current flow.
Beta 20 @ Ic of 5A and Vce of 4V. Max beta is 150.
I see that Vbe is 1.3 or 3.5 based on those parameter on the left column.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
That means the solenoid is only getting 12V - 7.3V = 4.7V.
Since DCR of the solenoid is 7 Ohms, that means the current through the Transistor/solenoid is 0.671 A.
Transistor dissipation = 0.671A x 7.3V = 4.89W! It is wasting lots of power.
Is the solenoid actually working?Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
YES, its working fine, but the transistor does heat up pretty quickly if I leave the solenoid engaged for more than a few seconds.sigpicComment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
By the way, the solenoid is rated at 12 volts and 1 amp (thats what the sticker says anyways)sigpicComment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
That is happening because the transistor is not fully turned on as explained. R1 needs to be lower value to provide bias to put that transistor in saturation mode, or you can use Darlington Transistor which has a lot more hfe.Last edited by budm; 05-17-2017, 09:09 AM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
You can easily verify that by using DCA to measure the current draw of the solenoid when 12VDC is applied to the solenoid through the DC AMP meter.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
You're running as a saturated switch, more base current is needed to saturate! Reduce R1 to around 150R to 220R and no need for R2 (remove it) or Rb (short it out). Don't worry about the base voltage limit, the base voltage won't go past 5V just like an LED won't go past its characteristic voltage as long as the current is limited. You should connect the resistor directly to the base though, just for safety.
Ideally you want to completely saturate the switch and thus the voltage across Vce will be as low as possible, decreasing the dissipation. For your transistor it's a max of 1.3V at 5A - but I suspect it will be typically lower, and even lower for 1-2 amps - so at an amp of collector current it'll still dissipate up to 1W or so, which can get warm but it's fine for an unheatsinked TO220.
Increasing Ib is can be a problem too beyond the transistor's base current limit: what's the maximum current of the reed switch? I suspect it will take 100mA just fine so perhaps this isn't a problem after all.Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
You're running as a saturated switch, more base current is needed to saturate! Reduce R1 to around 150R to 220R and no need for R2 (remove it) or Rb (short it out). Don't worry about the base voltage limit, the base voltage won't go past 5V just like an LED won't go past its characteristic voltage as long as the current is limited. You should connect the resistor directly to the base though, just for safety.
Ideally you want to completely saturate the switch and thus the voltage across Vce will be as low as possible, decreasing the dissipation. For your transistor it's a max of 1.3V at 5A - but I suspect it will be typically lower, and even lower for 1-2 amps - so at an amp of collector current it'll still dissipate up to 1W or so, which can get warm but it's fine for an unheatsinked TO220.
Increasing Ib is can be a problem too beyond the transistor's base current limit: what's the maximum current of the reed switch? I suspect it will take 100mA just fine so perhaps this isn't a problem after all.
So is this what you're saying I should be using as the design?sigpicComment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
That will give about 50mA of Bias current, try it and see what Voltage you will get between E and C of the transistor to see if it is in saturation mode or not. I would put a 2.2K resistor between GND and Base so the Base circuit will not be floating when the switch is not closedNever stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
That will give about 50mA of Bias current, try it and see what Voltage you will get between E and C of the transistor to see if it is in saturation mode or not. I would put a 2.2K resistor between GND and Base so the Base circuit will not be floating when the switch is not closedsigpicComment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
What you show is Emitter and GND (negative).Last edited by budm; 05-18-2017, 12:53 PM.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809Comment
-
Re: First circuit design needs to be checked please?
Bipolar transistors don't care about floating base, all the charge on the base will bleed off very quickly. People must be thinking about FETs which should have them, but the input impedance of BJTs are fairly low in common emitter configurations.Comment
-
Comment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
Hi Everyone. First official post so fingers crossed I conform and also manage to get photos to work.
So I am requesting some help from anyone who happens to have one of these motherboards to hand and perhaps a multimeter.
My board has a single row of header pins for all the front panel stuff (have seen others where they are grouped together differently so thats no help) and the two pins for the power on switch had been previously repaired and I am trying to make a better repair. There looks to be pad and trace damage and im happy to relocate the header pin/pins to...13 Photos06-24-2024, 01:24 PM -
This specification for the Acer Switch Switch V 10 SW5-017P Hybrid (2-in-1) can be useful for upgrading or repairing a laptop that is not working. As a community we are working through our specifications to add valuable data like the Switch V 10 SW5-017P boardview and Switch V 10 SW5-017P schematic. Our users have donated over 1 million documents which are being added to the site. This page will be updated soon with additional information. Alternatively you can request additional help from our users directly on the relevant badcaps forum. Please note that we offer no warranties that any specification,...09-06-2024, 05:30 AM
-
by fab13Hello everyone
Small technical problem on a Nintendo Switch lite
Here's what I noticed: the USB port has been damaged internally, with a short circuit on the power supply line to the small fuse.
After replacing the USB connector, the short circuit went away and I can't see any other short circuit in the whole motherboard.
When I charge the console, it seems to be charging: I get 15 volts and an amperage of 0.450 A.
Then, after a while, the amperage increases to 1.1 A and the BQ24193 charging chip starts to heat up, as evidenced... -
by Natob82Great to be here! I'm a newbie here trying to find a "micro", momentary push switch to repair a Sony "clamshell" video walkman. This micro switch has long since discontinued by Sony, however I hope there are third-party switches of the same size and functionality that I might be able to source to play the same role. The purpose of this switch is to tell the video walkman that the user has activated the mechanical tape eject button, turning that physical action into an electronic signal that tells the tape transport mechanism to open so one can load or eject a video tape. I...
-
by grimacelordHello,
I've been working on a NEC TurboExpress and I accidentally got the plastic inside the power ON/OFF switch too hot while doing other repairs and melted it. At first, it would still power on when sliding the switch, but you had to really press inward while sliding to get it to work.
I removed the switch component and tried to gently melt the plastic back so it would work more reliably and all I managed to do was make it worse.
I need to find a replacement On/OFF switch for this, but having some trouble figuring out which kind of switch I need.... - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment