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#1601 | |||
Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Den Helder
My Country: Netherlands
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 56
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The pcb traces are fairily short because of the small pcb, filling the main power traces on the secondary side with solder tin also helped a bit i think. This helps the voltage regulation too. Last edited by Per Hansson; 05-21-2020 at 05:09 AM.. Reason: Fixed quote |
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#1602 |
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: The Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 122.5VAC 59.9Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 680
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![]() This looks like an Athena Power unit, definitely better than the one i pulled about 2 years ago as yours seems to have more room for modifications.
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#1603 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
City & State: Den Helder
My Country: Netherlands
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 56
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And talking about room for modifications... The second cap for the 12V rail is added at the place where you normally put the outgoing wires. The PFC connector is not mounted directly to the PCB as they never even bothered to add PFC support on it. The bigger output inductor did not really fit and i had to use some additional solid core wiring and modify the secondary heatsink to make it fit, the ERL35 transformer had the same footprint as the ERL33 transformer and even that one i had to squeeze in and change the primary heatsink for. The TO247 12V rectifier also did not fit since the board only allows TO220 parts there, so i had to bend the legs of the rectifier and make a new mounting hole on the heatsink to mount it higher in order to make it all fit. The fan control circuit is also added via an additional PCB, at least the bridge rectifier popped right in..... ![]() Last edited by bauto601; 05-18-2020 at 03:51 PM.. |
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#1604 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
City & State: Thessaloniki, Greece
My Country: Greece
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,137
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![]() Powertech ATX-450W year 2014
I have also the 2012, 2013 and 2015 versions of this thing. No one is even close to half decent. Something bad happened here as you can see from the toasty group of resistors. 2x 13007 npn transistors EST7502C supervisor IC MBR2545CT 3.3V MBR2060CT 5V F12C20C 12V why? I mean, this is not an early 00s unit. It's a 2014 psu. Why put 20A and 30A on 3.3V and 5V rails and 12A ultrafast rectifier on 12V? ![]() |
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#1605 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
City & State: ----
My Country: Sweden
Line Voltage: 230v 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 5,221
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![]() Well the label on the powewr (sic) supply is what informed people base their purchasing decisions on.
And that assures of a hefty 29A on 12v, and then just 10A on 5v and 14A on 3.3v. Sounds like a quite modern unit don't you think? ![]() I mean we have come a long way comparing it to the label on this don't you think? ![]() It is almost like they have listened to your initial feedback there and then made some serious iterations. In this latest one is the PFC connector spot maybe even upgraded so it sits between live a neutral and not just off to the side not connected to anything? ![]() I don't think the manufacturer cares much considering this unit would require PFC to be sold in the EU though, yet there is none. And since it is rated for 230VAC input only I guess they had no plans to sell it anywhere else... How is the 5VSB on these units, is it "two transistors" design or something decent?
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"The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it." |
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#1606 | |||||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,860
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With other gutless PSU's I've seen (particularly ones that were based on a "high end model" PCB and then made cheaper), they would have TO-247 holes, but only TO-220 parts installed, with the TO-220 parts' pins stretched to fit the holes, lol. ![]() Quote:
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But yeah... not like the manufacturer seems to care anyways. Quote:
![]() Like I said... old Chinese traditions must be observed. ![]() |
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#1607 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
City & State: Thessaloniki, Greece
My Country: Greece
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,137
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![]() Beware! The most powerful Powertech power supply ever posted here!
Powertech ATX-550W ![]() label states dual 12V rail and 17A on each one with no max combined output limit! The fan brand is "Cooling fan". Cool ![]() There is also a full input filter, except the MOVs because they are expensive! Quote:
em311Z I searched but couldn't find a datasheet. ![]() half bridge psu with 2x 13007 again the rectifiers for 3.3V and 5V are MBR2545CT and the rectifier for 12V is mur2020ct, rated for 20A. So, it is indeed really powerful compared to the other Powertech units. And there is a fan controller with thermistor ghetto glued on secondary heatsink |
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#1608 | |||||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,860
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![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() Well, compared to the other Powertech PSUs, it indeed has really good build quality. ![]() ![]() Quote:
If only they gave it an honest 250W rating with maybe a limit of 200W on the 12V rail, that PSU wouldn't actually been half bad. What a creative fan name ![]() Quote:
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https://static.chipdip.ru/lib/270/DOC000270679.pdf Check if the pinout matches. Probably does. I don't see what else it would be. Not bad. Everell here did a mod like that to convert many Bestec ATX-250-12E power supplies, and it works pretty well. Will handle up to 2-2.5 Amps Wow. An actual Schottky rectifier for the 12V rail. Shocking! ![]() Quote:
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#1609 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
City & State: Thessaloniki, Greece
My Country: Greece
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,137
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![]() Lamtech ATX-S450
Personally, I find this psu boring. While most of the components are there, they are just too small. The input filter is here, missing a common mode choke and MOV. The conductive glue is here too. Good! The 4 diodes are tiny but probably good for 230V AC. The primary caps are 330uF, too small to take this unit seriously and who knows if this is their real capacitance. half bridge design with switching transistors 2x D13007 very small transformers 33 and 16 nicon caps everywhere pi coil for every output voltage and 2 caps for all voltage rails except -12V tl494 and SDC339 ICs very small toroid coils S16C45C @ 3.3V S20C45C @ 5V F16C20C @ 12V This unit was made in 2011 and looking at the label: 15A @ 12V there is no excuse for that The label also states that there is -5V rail and the white cable is there, but the place for -5V output cap is not populated on PCB. |
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#1610 |
Computer Geek
Join Date: Jan 2015
City & State: Hell's Front Porch
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120/2/[email protected]
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 2,010
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![]() More like LAMEtech
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Don't buy those $10 PSU "specials". They fail, and they have taken whole computers with them. ![]() My computer doubles as a space heater. Windows 10? Only if you like forced, buggy updates and 24/7 telemetry. Samsung = Seagate = Seatrash = Trashgate Don't buy Seagate drives. Don't use Seagate drives. If you have any in service right now, make plans to replace them ASAP. SMR = Slow Magnetic Recording Avoid SMR, buy CMR drives instead. SMR is easily a 15+ year step BACKWARDS in HDD speed. Permanently Retired Systems: RIP Advantech UNO-3072LA (2008-2021) - Decommissioned and taken out of service permanently due to lack of software support for it. Not very likely to ever be recommissioned again. |
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#1611 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,860
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Looks like a decent *try*, but just a tad bit short of being overall decent PSU. 15A on the 12V rail will do for a basic system, if it can provide that much in spec. With 2 output caps and a PI coil, it probably will - just barely, if the caps on the 12V rail are 1000 uF each (and they look like they are.) Still, it ticks me off to see a 450 Watt rating on the label. If they advertised this as a basic 200-250W PSU and sold it for the right price, this would be much better alternative than, say... Powertech or L&C. ![]() Quote:
LOL Still better than L&C (Lame and Crappy ![]() |
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#1612 |
SNES-powered
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Bacau
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,503
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![]() Yeah, that's the same platform used in MOST Delux units. Pretty moddable if you ask me. I've actually improved one of these for a quite low power i3 unit w/ GTX1050 (w/o PCI-E plug, MSI branded) and it's been holding up great.
Ironically HKC PSUs did a better attempt at this, and if it weren't for the quite skinny heatsinks in mine, it might actually do 430W.
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#1613 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: San Jose, CA
My Country: USA, Unsure of Planet
Line Voltage: 120VAC, 60Hz & 115VAC, 400Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 3,398
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![]() Yeah, that Lametech looks like it could be a usable 200W P/S - limited by the 330uF F-yus, where's-the-beef heatsinks, under-sized main transformer, wimpy output rectifiers, almost-tiny toroids and AWG #20 output wires. It looks like its Y-caps are safety rated types, though.
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PeteS in CA Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells. **************************** To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it. **************************** Anti-Covid-Vaxxer pig crap claim/prediction, Doctor: Heart Failure from mRNA Jabs "Will Kill Most People" | Principia Scientific Intl. ; Dr. Geert Vanden Bossche Warns COVID-19 Jab Injuries and Deaths Will Soon "Collapse Our Health System" (VIDEO) ; Fully Vaxxed May 2021; Since that time I've done 7 5Ks, 1 8K, 8 10Ks, and 4 half marathons |
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#1614 |
SNES-powered
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Bacau
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,503
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#1615 |
CertifiedAxhole
Join Date: Aug 2016
City & State: Constanta
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,277
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![]() Severely failed mains caps on a trash-picked RPC ATX supply. I dug this out of our junk pile the other day with intent of scavenging for parts, when I saw THIS
![]() ![]() Also, have a look at that top "shelf" of the heatsink. Yes, that's right: the force of the can being "ejected" upwards was so great that it bent the corner of the heatsink. I myself wouldn't be able to do that bare-handed ![]() The fan was not seized when I found it (so I kept it ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Wattevah... Last edited by Dannyx; 06-13-2020 at 07:09 AM.. |
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#1616 | |||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,860
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![]() Oh man, that ^... is soo gutless!
Even if the PSU didn't have any damage, I would NOT use it for anything - not even powering small DC fans. Quote:
I don't see an input voltage selector switch, so it's not possible for someone to have set the PSU for 115V AC operation and then plug it into 230V AC (which is one way to cause this kind of damage to the primary caps.) Instead, it looks like either one or more of the diodes in the full "bridge rectifier" on the input overheated and shorted, sending AC current to the input caps... -OR- There was a power surge from nearby lightning strike hitting a power line and causing massive over-voltage. I imagine this PSU came from the city, where majority of AC power distribution to residential buildings is underground. So that means caps likely blew because the diodes in the bridge rectifier failed. Quote:
![]() Also, for half-bridge PSUs, you must have two series caps on the input. That way, the input voltage is divided equally. The "center tap" or "middle connection" of these series caps goes to one side of the main PS transformer on the primary (through a metal film cap). The other leg on the primary side of the main PS transformer is switched between +340V and primary GRND by the two BJTs. So this creates a series of square wave pulses with 170V amplitude across the main PS primary side. On the secondary side, you have center-tapped windings for a 5V rail and 12V rail, from which the 3.3V, 5V, 12V, -5V, and -12V rails can be derived. Quote:
I have an old L&C/Deer PSU, whose unfiltered high-side 5VSB cap exploded and also bent a fin on the secondary-side heatsink, just like on your unit. Give me a few minutes, and I'll edit this post with a link to that PSU (I posted it on BCN many many years ago.) **EDIT** Here is the PSU/picture in question: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...2&d=1331835289 Notice the two "ears" sticking out on a component? (Just a little left from the center of the image.) Those are the leads and rubber bung left from that exploded cap. The cap can probably hit the heatsink fin right above it and bent it. I couldn't find the cap can body anywhere, though. It must have fallen out when I found that PSU (it was a trash can find many years before I was even into fixing electronics.) There was simply paper and aluminum shrapnel/shards/pieces everywhere inside the PSU. This is why I always wear safety glasses when testing PSUs with covers removed or when testing a circuit on my breadboard that involves small caps and the possibility of them getting either over-volted or reverse-voltage (though I usually design to try to avoid that, of course.) Here is the post I made about it, from 8 years ago, mind you (wow I feel old now! ![]() https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=489 Last edited by momaka; 06-13-2020 at 10:58 AM.. |
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#1617 | |
CertifiedAxhole
Join Date: Aug 2016
City & State: Constanta
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,277
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#1618 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: San Jose, CA
My Country: USA, Unsure of Planet
Line Voltage: 120VAC, 60Hz & 115VAC, 400Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 3,398
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![]() I'm going to concur with momaka, the big lytics probably failed when one of the rectifiers in the bridge shorted and the caps saw reverse voltage. While the label value of 470uF in that configuration would probably be OK for 250W, that inverter heatsink puts the useful power (if operating) at around 200W. And if the rest of the PSU is as skimpy as the non-existent power line filtering, that might be pushing it. It might not even have many parts worth salvaging.
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#1619 |
CertifiedAxhole
Join Date: Aug 2016
City & State: Constanta
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hardcore Geek
Posts: 3,277
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#1620 |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,860
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![]() ^ I did that with a JNC PSU many years ago. It was as gutless as a PSU could get from the early 2000's, but still had a ton of useful components. As such, I'm still using parts from that thing, even to this day. It's mostly the resistors, but other more specific components too, occasionally. One would think those small resistors aren't that useful or special. But when repairing something and you need a specific value, they actually come in very handy. This is the PCB after I finished stripping it:
And here is the entire post: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=165 Fun fact: I still keep that PCB around - I'm re-using the big solder blobs from it. ![]() ![]() Well, that, and in case I need to figure out the transformer output windings configuration (in case I may need to re-use it.) Actually, just a few days ago I re-used the crappy output toroid inductor from that PSU to test-fix an old BFG "550 Watt" PSU. Using the PCB as a reference, I was able to determine the windings on the output toroid from the JNC PSU and use it on the BFG, because the BFG was all burned up. Here is the post about it: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...36&postcount=2 |
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