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Old 09-05-2019, 03:27 PM   #1
Bishop
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Default Identify solder joints Looks bad to me

I just took apart the window control switchpack from my 98 SUV.

Two days ago the windows worked fine yesterday none will go down or up. Several solder joints or spots have an orange or gold corrosion on the solder.

Is there anything I can do? Resolder?

This unit cost $385 to replace. I'm 71 and retired and can't spend that much to roll the windows down.

What would do?

Thanks
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Old 09-05-2019, 04:22 PM   #2
petehall347
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Default Re: Identify solder joints Looks bad to me

just flux .you could clean it off .
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Old 09-05-2019, 04:25 PM   #3
petehall347
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Default Re: Identify solder joints Looks bad to me

is the module getting power ?
any chance of pics of both sides of the board ?
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Old 09-05-2019, 07:36 PM   #4
Bishop
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Default Re: Identify solder joints Looks bad to me

Board is clean on both sides. I tested all the switches back to the module and got a good short.

I cleaned the circuit board this afternoon and reinstalled it, no change.

None of the windows will roll and down the window lock is off.
The only thing that shows sign of life on the switch pack is the power light comes on when the headlight are on, so there is power to the pack.

I unplugged the C626 plug under the passenger seat several tims to get a good connection and pulled the carpet up on bothsides looking for a faulty Purple/blue wire but all is clean and dry. The 98 RR has been a good vehicle up to now, and for the last three years.
When I put the RR in reverse the side mirrors drop as they use too. I did not try to adjust the mirror switch on the switch pack. They work and that's oK.

The sunroof is dead also.

Help
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:17 AM   #5
stj
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Default Re: Identify solder joints Looks bad to me

if the sunroof has a seperate controller then i would say the problem is actually the main system not enabling them.
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:44 PM   #6
sofTest
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Default Re: Identify solder joints Looks bad to me

Just because the light comes on on the switch, doesn't mean that you got good power or ground. If you're lucky, you could have a (partially) blown fuse. It's an easy fix if you're lucky. You can have a bad connection, i.e. corrosion (the green crusty) on the hot side or the ground side. Not always easy to diagnose; the connection could be good enough for showing voltage on a multimeter or test light, but not carrying enough current to drive the motors. Any 55W halogen headlight test bulb might be helpful here.

My advice would be to find the wiring diagrams for the car. BBB Industries might be a free site to start with:
http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-and-wiring-diagrams-login/

When you got a wiring diagram, you can find what the problematic circuits have in common, making it easier to narrow down the diagnostic. For instance, if they don't share ground, hot is probably the problem. Try to split up your diagnostics; ie. from connector to connector if possible.

If you haven't diagnosed electrical problems in cars before, look up the following channels on Youtube:
- Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
- New Level Auto
- South Main Auto Repair

I've seen more than one video involving diagnosing window regulator problems in those channels.

I'm not much around here any more, so I may not be doing any follow up if questions.

RR=Range Rover?
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