The heat can be due to those bad filter caps which allowing high frequency AC ripple to get to the circuits and caused the invereter to be running at the wrong frequency due to beat frequency of the switching power supply and the frequency of the inverter circuits. I would check the ESR of those blue caps or replace them.
Ok, I now have some time to place an order for the parts I need to try fixing this TV. I found the 4 caps but don't know exactly what to be looking for to get the smd resistors. If someone could check my caps and tell me what part# from Newark for the SMDs it would be great.
The Resistors say 301 & 195. I did find a calculator and it said they are:
301 = 300 Ohm
195 = 1.9m Ohm
They are both 3.2mm X 2mm
Ok I started to diagnose the problem with this tv a while back and all but gave up when the inverter board was burned up. I have replaced the inverter board now and still no change.
I am now going to start over, and hope that Bud is still on the forums to help me out.
DC Voltage across the Big Blue Cap:
TV Off: holds @ 170 vdc
TV On: holds @ 395 vdc
Inverter board connectors with TV On (and all boards connected):
CNS1
pin 1: 24 vdc
pin 2: 24 vdc
pin 3: 24 vdc
pin 4: 24 vdc
pin 5: 24 vdc
Now would be the step where bud told me to take pictures of the inverter boards, which I did. One was burnt so I replaced it completely with a known good board (per ebay seller). I replaced it with exactly the same board rev and all. should I have replaced both inverter boards??
OK, it has been awhile so I do not remember all the questions and answers. So there are TWO inverter board, one has some burnt on it, is that the master one or the slave one?
Can I see the whole backside of the TV?
SJ shows only one inverter board: http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsear...ewsonic+n4060w
Those cannot be the connectors on the inverter board, it only has one connector to connect the inverter board and the power supply board.
CNS1, 2, 3 also has more than 11 pins.
Yes, the signals are correct, pin 12 on the inverter board is the BL_ON (ON/OFF, or INVR ON). But since the TV has MASTER/SLAVE INVERTER boards which work together so one of the two may be bad, or both have failed. You only replaced one, right?
Yes, that is correct only one has been replaced. It was the one on the left in the above picture. Its connected to the PS as CNS2.
Also I just attempted to get audio out of this TV but was unsuccessful.. either I did it wrong or I have none..
Test method:
start a youtube video that is hours long (babbling brook I could hear it without headphones plugged in)..
connect headphone out to AV1 R & L
turn on TV
Flip threw sources (and turn up volume each time)
either way I got zip nada in the way of sound..
Pulled off cover to logic board to test connecter that goes to PS.
I got the following (I'm unsure of pin numbering, there isn't any on the board):
1: 4.6
2: 1.9
3: 4.8
4: 4.8
5: 4.8
6: 0
7: 0
8: 0
9: 0
10: 11.8
11: 11.8
12: 11.8
13: 2.7
i have just repaired one of these done a full recap using panasonics and all fine with mine yes red on stand by green when powered on when your sets powered on can you see any white light through the holes in the back casing and on this set i connected a scart lead and a dvd player and it automaticaly switched to scart input ive just ordered a remote control its a pity though these sets dont have built in freeview the picture is not bad quality at all it only owes me £34.00 all in so not a bad buy and was a cheap fix about £4.50 in capacitors.
HI, I have this set and am attempting to repair. I have the same problem with the set not coming on. I have no bulging caps on primary or secondary board. I have read the thread and measured the voltage accross the large blue capacitor on primary board
when set light is
green 395V
red 337V
power removed: voltage descends to 60V after one minute and 30V after 10 minutes
This seems to be different to what should be expected according to this thread. Should I therefore replace the large blue capacitor, it does not look faulty though?
The 395 is ok not sure why the red is 337.
Perhaps your doing it the wrong way round.
Test the big cap when the set is plugged in but not switched on
Then switch on and do the test again.
If the last is 395vDC then do the connector test on CNS1 2 and 3 as earlier in this thread
im sure when i was fault finding mine i had roughly the same voltages as yours try getting a hair dryer and heating the whole power supply for about 4 mins get it nice and warm moving all over the psu board then try powering on the tv as normal and see if it comes on a capacitor can look normal but can still be failed.
Thanks for the help guys. I got so fed up I bought a new one, but I will come back to this in a few weeks when I have time, no doubt with more questions, I am determined to fix it, cheers
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