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#21 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
City & State: richmond
My Country: canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() Hi djatila666,
I just bought a refurbished unit of this monitor and have the same problem. I'm glad I found your post and this forum. Is your monitor still stable now more than 2 months after your last post? If so, I'm tempted to try the same fix (versus returning my unit to the dealer and dealing with shipping etc). What was the process involved in applying new thermal paste to K15A60U? Is there a recommended method to remove the heatsink (is there any best practice I should be aware of)? And is adding the radiator to LD7904jgp7 as straightforward as it sounds? I can look up how to do this, I assume also with some application of thermal paste etc. Thanks in advance for any help and for your contribution to this thread! |
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#22 |
New Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
City & State: malaga
My Country: Spain
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 3
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![]() Hi misteeka
My monitor is working good. Look the image. That is my repair. |
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#23 |
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
City & State: hanoi
My Country: vietnam
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() I got the same problem.
- Standby power (5V) still on - PS1 (24V): 0V Already replaced some following components: 03 schottky diodes (SRF 30-10) + 1 opto coupler at Main Switched PS; IC LD7904JGPN; MOSFET K15A60D at FPC area; 02 MOSFETs K10A60D closely to the main transformer. Nothing changes. When used a laptop CPU cooling fan and directed the air flow to the main switched PS area, the screen turned on in 3 seconds. I used a meter to check the value of components around the PFC and main switched PS areas. All components seem to be still in good condition. Thanks for any help |
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#24 |
New Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
City & State: manila
My Country: philippines
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 7
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![]() check the capacitor if theres a leakage
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#25 | |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
City & State: California
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4
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![]() Quote:
Last edited by gaijin4life; 10-28-2019 at 01:40 AM.. |
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#26 |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
City & State: California
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4
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#27 |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
City & State: California
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4
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![]() So replacing the two thyristors are the answer for this problem. Q971 and Q972. Unforunately the original MCR part had a non-standard arrangement of Gate, Anode, Cathode (K) leads, and there are none I could find with the correct order, so you MUST bend the pins to have the right one go to the correct hole on the board, changing the Littlefuse Thyristor from KGA pin order to GAK order to match the original part - you CANNOT use the default arrangement.
The replacement part you want is Littelfuse S4X8ES2, and mouser.com has them for a 45 cents each - the $7.99 shipping will be the most expensive part of this. I ordered 4 since they were so cheap so I had spares in case I accidentally broke a pin in the bending. The data sheet for the part is here: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/2...pdf-319336.pdf To open the case on your Dell U2413, I highly recommend the ifixit kit with the guitar pick things (or actual guitar picks). They get the case open without marring it. I’ve attached a few pictures showing where the parts are on the power supply board in the monitor and also how to bend the pins of the replacement thyristor so it has them in the correct order when you solder it onto the board. This will stick up a lot higher than the original due to the bending (so you don’t have any of the legs touch - DO NOT HAVE THEM TOUCHING EACH OTHER AT ANY POINT), but that’s no problem. Thank you Dell for cheaping out on parts, cutting another corner that your customers have to figure out to avoid throwing a perfectly good monitor away. |
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#28 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
City & State: Beijing
My Country: China
Line Voltage: 220VAc 50HZ
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() I have similar problem, black screen, backlight off, power led off, 3 USB ports have 5V, the one with lightning sign dosen't, and I can't turn it on, after 3mins, it will turn on automaticaly, looks like an overheat problem.
The monitor will turn off quicker when it's 100% brightness compared to 30%, when the monitor shuts down, I measured standby voltage, it's 5.0-5.2V and not steady, the ps-on signal is below 3.3V and jumping around, the wierd thing is the 24V is present and steady. I don't know if replacing Q971 and Q972 will work, need help, Thanks! |
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#29 |
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
City & State: Toronto
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1
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![]() I had pretty much the same issue. The screen would work for a bit, then power off (with the power led blinking) but not responsive. I'd have to wait between 2 and 10 minutes before I could power it on again and this would just repeat after a while.
Replacing Q971 and Q972 fixed it for me. Just remember when disassembling start with taking the bezel off. Using a multi-meter to check for shorted pins before putting everything back together. |
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#30 |
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
City & State: Here
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() I'm having the same issue (along with a slight pink tint, but that's another story). I assume the aforementioned Thyristor is the answer, but I can't find a UK supplier for it, and I'd rather not pay £12 to import a single Thyristor.
In looking for a substitute from a local supplier, is there anything I need to look for/avoid, or will anything work (as long as the specs are identical, and the brand is reputable)? |
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#31 | |
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
City & State: Here
My Country: UK
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() For what it's worth I'll reply to myself to state I eventually used a BT169D, due to its availability, price, and slightly higher junction temperature. Bending its pins from K-G-A to G-A-K required routing the K pin across the other 2, and heat shrink was used to ensure it didn't make contact.
So far it appears to have worked, although due to the nature of the circuit I'll only know if the gate isn't opened in the (unlikely) event of overvoltage. Fingers crossed. Quote:
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#32 | ||
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
City & State: Texas
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2
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![]() Hi all,
I have two Dell U2413f (rev A01) working fine. Picked up a 3rd from eBay b/c overkill, why not. Well it powers off after about 5 minutes. Cycle power, shuts down after 90 seconds. Cycle power, shuts down after 15 seconds. So I'm thinking it's the same issue documented here. Something is getting too hot. The eBay seller offered a full refund. I'm tempted to ask if I can keep it if they refund me perhaps all but shipping. If I can keep it for super cheap I'll give the repair/mod a try. If they will only refund with a return, then obviously I won't tinker. If I am reading this correctly, I see two possible solutions documented here? @djatila666 had one solution Quote:
Quote:
I'm entirely unfamiliar with soldering so to me the heatsink approach is appealing if it is a fix. |
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