KSGER STM32 T12 soldering stations

[sam_sam_sam]

Originally Posted by redwire

When I pried, the pins slid right out of the GX12. They do not have collars (like in pic) to grab the epoxy, it's a cheap connector from KSGER.

Did you get this soldering controller to work again or is it history

[redwire]

Yes, I just bought a new GX12 connector and used flying leads to connect to it. No more direct soldering the connector to the controller PCB because the board could never take getting desoldered again without traces lifting.
Only the heater pins need to do 3A, thicker wire there but the rest are small for the shake sensor etc.

I see people taking the heater cartridges apart and soldering the collar/crimp connections to get rid of the bad open heater drama.

[sam_sam_sam]

Originally Posted by redwire

I see people taking the heater cartridges apart and soldering the collar/crimp connections to get rid of the bad open heater drama.

Could you post a link where I could find this information

[redwire]

I look for the Aliexpress/Banggood item on mysku.ru because the threads are very good, the Russians are crazy with their teardowns and mods. Search box on far right. You can run the webpage through google translate. If google chokes translating the entire webpage, I cut'n'paste text to get that translated. There are many soldering station reviews. Try "T12 STM32 KSGER" for example.

This thread has pics of opening a T12 tip and pop off the end cap, solder the wire crimps to the two collars. I also saw the collars pried apart and soldered but I can't find those pics. This fixes possible bad connections in T12 cartridges, although the socket and the tip's internals can still be bad as well.
If you have a bad T12 cart, no harm in taking the collars apart or melting the insulators a little bit soldering the connections.

also try looking for BMS or digital panel meters, spot welders etc, I find the site good for reviews.

[Justdigit]

First post here.... Just came to the conclusion I ordered the wrong version pcb....

I bought a diy kit... Because it was bit cheaper and it came with four tips.

Are the some modifications I have to do? Besides grounding?

[redwire]

There's many different versions, maybe post pics of what you have got. The enclosure grounding needs to be done, if mains powered. If a laptop adapter is powering it, other stuff needs to be done.

[kkolding]

I suspect that my PSU has a faulty SG6842 I haven't been able to find it anywhere else than on ebay, I would much rather buy one from a trusted seller, does anyone know if there is other IC's that would work instead of this one?

[redwire]

SG6842 included in the lawsuit between Fairchild, System General Taiwan and Power Integrations.

Fairchild Products Found to Infringe {injunction effective June 30, 2014}
"The following Fairchild products are no longer offered for sale or sold in the United States. The following products are also subject to the attached court-ordered injunction. Sales of the following products outside the United States are made with the understanding, and subject to the condition, that buyers of the products will not import any of the following products into the United States, either as individual products or within their finished goods or products, or the
finished goods or products of others. Customers who wish to import finished goods or products into the U.S. must not purchase or use the following products in any goods or products imported into the U.S."

Alternates... I didn't seen anything with exact same pinout.
SG6845 different pinout and DIP-8 not SOIC-8.
FAN6604 very close pin 3-4 needs jumper, and delete any R on old pin 4.

What is wrong with your power supply that makes you think it's the IC?
Some of these T12 24VDC PSU's are junk - unstable and run hot. Capacitors way too small.

[kkolding]

Thanks!

The PSU can't hold a steady 24V it switches between 19-30V on the output side. The red LED on the output side keeps blinking. And when I plug in the digital control board to the PSU it turns on but keeps giving me an error. As soon as I plug in a tip it can't deliver enough power and turns the display on and off.
I have tested the tips to check if they are shorted but they seem fine.

at first, I suspected that it was the power MOSFET so I replaced that with a Vishay model instead "http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2687488.pdf".

Also swapped out the 400v capacitor with and Samsung brand instead.

With those replaced, I still have the same problem.

I'm a noob, so I'm just trying to mess about with the knowledge I have.

[clearchris]

Thanks for the heads up, I was considering getting a KSGER, will definitely not get one with the internal power supply now.

[redwire]

Originally Posted by clearchris

Thanks for the heads up, I was considering getting a KSGER, will definitely not get one with the internal power supply now.

WAIT, there are different 24VDC power supplies used in these T12 soldering stations. Realistically, they only need to put out 75W (3A) for short periods, not all the time so there are some super el-cheapo's out there, as well as good ones.
KSGER store has decent ones that run cool and last, but the safety ground and clearances/isolation needs to be checked as it's always done poorly in china.
The recent T12 PSU is this, it has undersized mains capacitors 22uF x2 and small rectifier diodes, for a "24V 4.5A 108W" rating. I haven't used one but it has a scary ground trace!

[redwire]

Originally Posted by kkolding

The PSU can't hold a steady 24V it switches between 19-30V on the output side. The red LED on the output side keeps blinking. And when I plug in the digital control board to the PSU it turns on but keeps giving me an error. As soon as I plug in a tip it can't deliver enough power and turns the display on and off.
I have tested the tips to check if they are shorted but they seem fine.

at first, I suspected that it was the power MOSFET so I replaced that with a Vishay model instead "http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2687488.pdf".

Also swapped out the 400v capacitor with and Samsung brand instead.

With those replaced, I still have the same problem.

I'm a noob, so I'm just trying to mess about with the knowledge I have.

It sounds like the power supply is hiccupping and going into overvoltage shutdown if you are seeing 30V output blips. It might not be the SMPS IC, but caps or opto or TL431.
I would not connect it to anything- they have 1k dummy load resistors and you should get about 25V output, stable.
Need a pic of the board to see what design it is. I would check the smaller electrolytic capacitors like 10uF or 47uF 50V and the output capacitors to see if they are low value.

[clearchris]

Originally Posted by redwire

WAIT, there are different 24VDC power supplies used in these T12 soldering stations. Realistically, they only need to put out 75W (3A) for short periods, not all the time so there are some super el-cheapo's out there, as well as good ones.
KSGER store has decent ones that run cool and last, but the safety ground and clearances/isolation needs to be checked as it's always done poorly in china.
The recent T12 PSU is this, it has undersized mains capacitors 22uF x2 and small rectifier diodes, for a "24V 4.5A 108W" rating. I haven't used one but it has a scary ground trace!

They sell smaller units that don't have an internal power supply. I have a bunch of 19.5v 4.5a (supposedly) laptop power supplies that have worked fine for years, but have broken cords. I can easily repurpose one for a power supply. No big deal. If I really wanted to go overboard, I could probably print an extension for the case to house the laptop power supply and give the unit some weight.

I don't think KSGER units are being faked, yet.

[kkolding]

I have the first revision of the board the one that you made a schematic of.
I stole a TL431 from a faulty PS4 PSU, replaced it now works fine. Thanks! =)

[Sefirosu789]

Hi would anyone happen to know the value of SMD cap C20 on the power board? Mine has blew and would like to replace but can't find the value anywhere
Board version is V2.01
Thanks!

[Maui Popss]

I have 2 new ksger t12 soldering stations version 2.1, both are DOA. I have replaced all fuses, electrolytic capacitors, bridge rectifiers, inductor, and checked other capacitors and resistors. Checked FQPF20N60 Mosfet transistor and MBR20200CT Schottky Diode all are good still no dc output. These power supplies are like the good ones in the left illustrations. Bangood has refunded the fees I paid less the expedited shipping and told me to keep the soldering stations. Where to go next? I don't know if this is the way to post on this forum so please help me with the proper way to post.

[Maui Popss]

I have 2 new ksger t12 soldering stations version 2.1, both are DOA. I have replaced all fuses, electrolytic capacitors, bridge rectifiers, inductors, and checked other capacitors and resistors. Checked FQPF20N60 Mosfet transistor and MBR20200CT Schottky Diode all are good still no dc output. These power supplies are like the good ones in the right illustrations. Bangood has refunded the fees I paid less the expedited shipping and told me to keep the soldering stations. Where to go next?

[sam_sam_sam]

Look for a switching power supply regulator ic chip it could be a surface mount ic chip or a 5 pin or more device if you can find the part replace it or make sure you have power to this chip

You can power them from a 24 volt power supply will the soldering controller power on
Because you can power the soldering station from a 24 volt 3 amp power supply

Make sure that the soldering controller board works because I got one that the controller board was DOA and I was not able to get it to work ( I end up parting it out )


Or

a 24 volt battery pack

[Mestapholes]

Hi,
I have an KSGER T12, which kept detecting movement of the handle even so the handle was resting in the cradle. Looking at the schematics of the control board that must mean that the 3.3V on the input at the STM32 must be missing.
Measuring with a normal multimeter everything looked fine. Stable 24V of supply and 3.3V at the chip.
After poking around with an oscilloscope I found that I have really short drops in the supply voltage, which I guess lead to the 3.3V missing.
After attaching the control board to a laboratory psu the board works fine.

So the question is, what could be wrong with the psu?

Attached are some pictures of the psu.






Maybe I could also provide an picture of the oscilloscope (its an old analog one, so I would need to try to capture the correct moment with my camera).

Any ideas at what to look at? The caps look ok, soldering seems to be ok too...

Thanks and Greetings
Christian

[stj]

is the 24v dropping out, or the 3.3v?