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    samsung 214t smd cap questions

    hey, so i have the same problems as the creator of this thread (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31410). it takes like 10-30 minutes for the monitor to work (turn it on, backlight goes on, screen stays black, wait 10-30 minutes, turn it off, wait 10-15 seconds, turn it back on and hope it works), when its actually working i sometimes get like yeah some kinda weird patterns on screen and mostly it will turn black again with a white stripe moving from bottom to top, then i have to do the above mentioned off-and-on-switching procedure again.
    i am sure the problem with my monitor is the board that does the picture and signal stuff (dunno what its called) and not the power board (replaced the caps there except the really big one and it didnt change anything, also with no signal cable connected the samsung logo shows up instantly with no problem).

    i just want to replace all those electrolytic smd caps on the signal board without further checking if its another problem since i dont really have the equipment to check all those things and dont wanna open the monitor (until i actually got new caps) because its the one im using. also it is the only thing i think i am capable of doing if it doesnt work i might just get a whole new board for 30$ and hope that will work.

    now my question(s):
    how do i know which caps i need? ive downloaded the service manual and found the caps i wanna replace in the parts list but im not sure what all of the details mean.
    heres the different kinds of the caps (copied from the service manual)

    C501 2402-001081 C-AL,SMD;100uF,20%,25V,WT,TP,8.3x8.3x10
    C125 2402-001086 C-AL,SMD;100UF,20%,16V,WT,TP,6.6X6.6X5.3
    C305 2402-001128 C-AL,SMD;100UF,20%,16V,WT,TP,6.3X5.7MM
    C209 2409-001049 C-ORGANIC;47UF,20%,6.3V,FX,TP,5X5.9MM,-
    C512 2409-001065 C-ORGANIC;82UF,20%,16V,WT,TP,8X6.9MM,-

    C-AL just means capacitor aluminium i guess but what does C-ORGANIC mean?
    also i dont know what WT, TP and FX stand for
    and i cannot find all of the caps with the exact measurements that are given (i only find 8x...mm instead of 8.3x... does that matter?)
    and the ones where theres only 2 lenghts given (5x5.9MM does that translate to 5x5x5.9)?

    i think that the height of the caps wont really matter but for smd the measures of the base the capacitor have to be right ...right?



    i would greatly appreciate some help since i really love my monitor and dont want to use another one
    Last edited by wannabetechnician; 02-05-2015, 07:04 PM. Reason: added a word

    #2
    Re: samsung 214t smd cap questions

    alright it took me quite some time to get around to do this but eventually i did and now i want to conclude this thread.

    i got all the right caps (all panasonic) from www.reichelt.de except the polymer 6.3V ones, for those i ordered 10V ones instead.
    so then i took apart the monitor and did the recapping, removing the old smd caps was actually way easier than i expected, i just turned them around with pliers till the legs broke and they came right off. no soldering pads harmed with this method. then desoldered the leftover pieces of the legs and did a little cleaning with alcohol.
    i then soldered all the new smd caps in place with no problem, except for the 10V polymer ones that were too big due to the higher voltage rating. so i removed their plastic base-thingy and just soldered them 'standing' onto the pads. (unfortunately didnt take any pictures during the process)
    then i powered the monitor up connected to my pc and it displayed the picture instantly. fuck yeah!

    total cost of all (23) caps i replaced was ~8€ + shipping (maybe a little expensive but idc now lol) and my beloved 214t is working like a fucking charm again.

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      #3
      Re: samsung 214t smd cap questions

      I stumbled across this thread because I have the same caps in a 205BW that need to be replaced. It would have been nice to see what the cross reference part numbers were since finding a 6.3x5.7mm even on digikey seems to be a needle in the haystack. Of course plenty of 5.8mm, and hell that is probably even the right size considering it all. If you ever get a chance and still have the data, it would be nice to have.

      Thx.

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