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    Suggestions for desoldering braid.

    Hello,

    Anyone have any good suggestions for desoldering braid? I was using radio shack stuff, which wasn't bad, but if you didn't use it for a while, it didn't work so well. And it was horrible with smaller sized stuff (SMD components, for example).

    Now that RadioShack in our area is gone, I'd like some suggestions. Can anyone recommend some desoldering braid for SMD type components that they feel is the bees knees and desoldering braid for the old school through hole stuff?

    Some of the companies I've been looking at....Easy Braid, MG Chemicals, and Chemtronics. I see Easy Braid and MG Chemicals have sizes down to 0.025" (0.63mm) and Chemtronics has sizes down to 0.030" (0.76mm)...

    Some say Unfluxed, Rosin, Mildly Activated (RMA), Rosin, Non-Activated. Why would someone buy one that has no flux? Isn't it the flux that allows the stuff to move from the board to the wick? Not sure what they mean by activated. I'm going to have to read up on that a bit, some with the Rosin. I think the Rosin might be the flux. I'm guessing with the non-flux stuff, I'd probably just add flux myself....

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Spork Schivago; 02-21-2017, 07:57 PM.
    -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

    #2
    Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

    For Chemtronics, this is what their site says about one of their types:
    Code:
     Soder-Wick® Desoldering Braid
    Soder-Wick, the world's leading brand of desoldering braid, is the fastest, 
    cleanest and safest braid in the industry. It significantly reduces 
    rework/repair time and minimizes the risk of heat damage to the board. 
    Its geometrically precise weave design allows for maximum capillary 
    action and solder capacity. Soder-Wick Desoldering Braid optimizes heat 
    transfer through the braid and into the solder joint, resulting in faster 
    wicking action than any other competitive brand. Minimal flux residue on 
    the board speeds up the cleaning process, or eliminates it entirely.
    Is it true though? If so, that sounds like the type I'd want. The world's leading brand, the fastest, cleanest and safest braid in the industry...

    But I also see another brand they make:
    Code:
    Chem-Wik® Desoldering Braid 
    As the standard desoldering braid for service and repair, Chem-Wik® 
    Desoldering Braid ensures fast and safe desoldering. The ultra-pure, 
    oxygen free copper braid quickly and completely removes solder from 
    circuit boards and components. Its fast wicking action protects 
    components from harmful heat damage. PermaPak™ Barrier Packaging 
    ensures ultimate braid freshness and speed by sealing out harmful 
    effects of the environment and protecting against oxidation.
    That PermaPak Barrier Packaging could be real useful. Sometimes, I don't have to desolder stuff for a long time. The Radio Shack stuff works good when it's fresh, but if I don't touch it for 6 months or so and then need it, it usually isn't any good anymore. If that PermaPak Barrier Packaging can keep the stuff fresh for a very long time, that might be a good reason to go for that stuff....
    Last edited by Spork Schivago; 02-21-2017, 08:03 PM.
    -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

      I remove smd stuff with hot air. Then use the closest braid i have to hand to clean the pads.
      I have some very nice wide Chemtonics braid I use for BGA cleaning. It has plenty of flux in and keeps on sucking up solder even when it looks saturated.
      I have other brands too, goot wick and servisol.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

        What's servisol? Is that just contact cleaner? What do you use the servisol for? After removing the solder?

        For the Chemtronics braid, are you using the Chem-Wik or the Soder-Wick, or is there another model of it that you use? I'm really leaning towards the Chemtronics stuff myself.....

        Can you recommend some sizes for the different stuff? I was thinking of getting the .025" thick stuff for SMD components. That's 1/40th of an inch I believe. For through hole, I wonder what would be a good width, maybe .25" (1/4") thick or an 1/8th inch?

        Thanks diif!
        -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

          The servisol is just the name on the braid.
          I've never used braid for desoldering. I've always just used it to clean up the old solder after removing parts. I don't use it for removing through hole components either.
          The common size I use is 2mm and the Chemtronics is 5mm.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

            If your using flux solder or better yet 60/40 solder with flux in it you would not need flux in the braid. You would fist wet the joint with the solder flux, let it cool then put the braid on the part and heat with iron or if you have flux in a bottle dripper you would apply flux to the joints then put braid on and heat up.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

              Originally posted by keeney123 View Post
              If your using flux solder or better yet 60/40 solder with flux in it you would not need flux in the braid. You would fist wet the joint with the solder flux, let it cool then put the braid on the part and heat with iron or if you have flux in a bottle dripper you would apply flux to the joints then put braid on and heat up.
              Until my Chemtronics braids come, I was thinking of just dipping the old radio shack stuff in some flux, letting it dry and see how it works. For soldering, I personally use silver bearing lead-free solder (62/36/2). A lot of the older boards I work with have the lead-based stuff. I like the silver bearing solder, it's really nice to work with.
              -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                Originally posted by Spork Schivago View Post
                Until my Chemtronics braids come, I was thinking of just dipping the old radio shack stuff in some flux, letting it dry and see how it works. For soldering, I personally use silver bearing lead-free solder (62/36/2). A lot of the older boards I work with have the lead-based stuff. I like the silver bearing solder, it's really nice to work with.

                If you have liquid flux in a bottle with a flat needle attach you can just put a little flux down and then put the braid on top of it and heat.


                If I was going to do a lot of soldering I would use lead free. Just repairing you can not beat the old solder. I would set a personal fan and blow it across were I was soldering so I do not breath in all those fumes. The only other way is to use hood vent sucking air to the outside.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                  I have a Flux pen, which has very liquidy flux. I guess it's good for removing BGA type components because the flux can easily get under the chips. I also have really expensive albeit really good Amtech 4300 / LF-4300-TF tacky flux, which is really good for BGA components (adding them, not removing them).

                  I think I have a jar of radioshack flux somewheres, but no idea where. It's a bit like the Amtech tacky flux, very gooey. Not sure where that stuff is though.

                  So you're saying instead of putting the flux on the radio shack braid, put the flux on the solder, then put the braid over it and add some heat?

                  Normally, I just back out the components and don't use the braid (mostly). But I have a 12-pin or so riser / daughter board that I'm having trouble backing out. I think it's best to remove the solder and then try.
                  -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                    Originally posted by Spork Schivago View Post
                    I have a Flux pen, which has very liquidy flux. I guess it's good for removing BGA type components because the flux can easily get under the chips. I also have really expensive albeit really good Amtech 4300 / LF-4300-TF tacky flux, which is really good for BGA components (adding them, not removing them).

                    I think I have a jar of radioshack flux somewheres, but no idea where. It's a bit like the Amtech tacky flux, very gooey. Not sure where that stuff is though.

                    So you're saying instead of putting the flux on the radio shack braid, put the flux on the solder, then put the braid over it and add some heat?

                    Normally, I just back out the components and don't use the braid (mostly). But I have a 12-pin or so riser / daughter board that I'm having trouble backing out. I think it's best to remove the solder and then try.

                    Yea, if you put the liquidy flux on the solder your trying to remove and put the braid on top of the flux and heat with iron that will work. Just need to tin iron first. The heat from the tinned iron will readily heat the copper braid that will transfer to the flux and the flux will heat up the flux-less solder that is lead free. Instead of absorbing all the flux into the braid You will be putting the flux where it needs to be .

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                      Originally posted by keeney123 View Post
                      Yea, if you put the liquidy flux on the solder your trying to remove and put the braid on top of the flux and heat with iron that will work. Just need to tin iron first. The heat from the tinned iron will readily heat the copper braid that will transfer to the flux and the flux will heat up the flux-less solder that is lead free. Instead of absorbing all the flux into the braid You will be putting the flux where it needs to be .
                      Gotcha, but this solder I'm trying to suck up, this isn't fluxless solder. This isn't the silver bearing solder. This is the 11-year old solder (I think maybe before silver-bearing solder existed). The radioshack braid is old, it's been sitting out for a long time, so I think even with new solder, it'd have trouble. I've noticed that new braid works, braid that's been setting out for a long time doesn't.

                      But the board is dirty as well. Someone said the white coating I was seeing on the underside (I uploaded pictures) was old flux never removed. Could this cause the solder not to get sucked up I wonder Keeney? I know removing the caps was weird. I used my 120 watt iron and I'd touch it to the pad, and granted, they were big pads, but usually, I'd walk the cap out and it wouldn't even look like the solder melted. It'd loose up, but not actually melt. I was thinking this could have been do to the "dirty" board. Maybe the solder had oxidized and the oxidation was absorbing most of the heat?
                      -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                        My local electronics store deals in NTE parts and that's the braid I use simply because I like to support them. Works very well and I never felt the need to go elsewhere.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                          Thanks Nojgib. I ended up by the Chemtronics Soder-Wick® SW 60 0.030" (0.76mm), 0.060" (1.52mm), 0.080" (2.03mm), 0.110" (2.79mm), 0.145" (3.68mm), and 0.210" (5.33mm) width no-clean braids. I believe that's every width they have.

                          That should keep me good for a while. I watched their tutorial on how to use it and it says I should pick a width that is the same size as the pad I'm trying to remove solder from. Then it says I should pick a tip slightly bigger than the braid. That might be a problem. I don't have a ton of tips for my iron, so eventually, I'll buy more tips, but they're expensive. I'm sure I can make the wick work with the tips I do have though.

                          Now I'd like to find the best way to store the braid. I plan on using ziplock bags, but I wonder if there's a better way to prevent air from getting to them. Maybe some sort of container that's air-tight where I can remove the air with some sort of manual vacuum pump or something that's built into the lid, I dunno.

                          Also, I'd love to find a good deal on used hot-air tips for my WHA900 hot air rework station. Those things are pricey, but it'd be really nice to get a good selection. They make a stand for them, but that's pricey too. They also make a changing tool for changing the tips while they're hot, but again, pricey. It seems all Weller stuff is pricey, albeit high quality. Worse case, I buy one every month or every other month and slowly build up a nice collection.
                          -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                            Originally posted by Spork Schivago View Post
                            Gotcha, but this solder I'm trying to suck up, this isn't fluxless solder. This isn't the silver bearing solder. This is the 11-year old solder (I think maybe before silver-bearing solder existed). The radioshack braid is old, it's been sitting out for a long time, so I think even with new solder, it'd have trouble. I've noticed that new braid works, braid that's been setting out for a long time doesn't.

                            But the board is dirty as well. Someone said the white coating I was seeing on the underside (I uploaded pictures) was old flux never removed. Could this cause the solder not to get sucked up I wonder Keeney? I know removing the caps was weird. I used my 120 watt iron and I'd touch it to the pad, and granted, they were big pads, but usually, I'd walk the cap out and it wouldn't even look like the solder melted. It'd loose up, but not actually melt. I was thinking this could have been do to the "dirty" board. Maybe the solder had oxidized and the oxidation was absorbing most of the heat?


                            So if it is leaded solder and it is old. I would recommend leaded solder with flux to remove it. What you do is first add solder until the old solder starts melting. Then take the copper braid put it on the joint and iron on top of braid and remove solder. You could do this with lead free solder and flux, but why do that if you already have leaded solder on the board.


                            Flux has a yellow color to it. The white coating could be residue from a cleaning agent like alcohol. Flux will have a sticky feel to it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                              Thanks Keeney123. I didn't think this was flux, but someone else said it was. There is some dried flux on the board, but there's also this white powder stuff (looks a bit like Anthrax). Maybe it's part of the cleaning agent? To me, some of it looks like it had been growing.

                              The customer actually pulled this from the dump, but didn't tell me until after I discovered the power supply was dead. Originally, he said all parts were original. That would have been real nice to know right from the beginning. I wasted days trying to diagnose this PC. He said the PSU did run originally though, so maybe when he shorted out the board, he shorted out the PSU as well? I dunno.

                              I've done what you're talking about before. Taking old solder, adding new solder, and then sucking it up with the braid. I've had varying degrees of success, but I think most of it is from the crappy braid I'm using. It'd suck up the majority but never the stuff in the hole. It'd leave just enough on the pads to make it so I'd have to take an iron to get it out.

                              I can't wait until this new braid comes, I'm excited. Normally, when I replace components, I hardly ever have a need to remove the solder. Normally, I'll just heat up the pad and work the component out. With SMD, I'll use hot air and a pair of tweezers. Then when I go to replace the component, I'll just heat up the old solder and add a dab of new solder.
                              -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                                Originally posted by Spork Schivago View Post
                                Thanks Keeney123. I didn't think this was flux, but someone else said it was. There is some dried flux on the board, but there's also this white powder stuff (looks a bit like Anthrax). Maybe it's part of the cleaning agent? To me, some of it looks like it had been growing.

                                The customer actually pulled this from the dump, but didn't tell me until after I discovered the power supply was dead. Originally, he said all parts were original. That would have been real nice to know right from the beginning. I wasted days trying to diagnose this PC. He said the PSU did run originally though, so maybe when he shorted out the board, he shorted out the PSU as well? I dunno.

                                I've done what you're talking about before. Taking old solder, adding new solder, and then sucking it up with the braid. I've had varying degrees of success, but I think most of it is from the crappy braid I'm using. It'd suck up the majority but never the stuff in the hole. It'd leave just enough on the pads to make it so I'd have to take an iron to get it out.

                                I can't wait until this new braid comes, I'm excited. Normally, when I replace components, I hardly ever have a need to remove the solder. Normally, I'll just heat up the pad and work the component out. With SMD, I'll use hot air and a pair of tweezers. Then when I go to replace the component, I'll just heat up the old solder and add a dab of new solder.

                                Well if it has been in the dump it has been soaked with water and who knows what else. If you have solder stuck in a hole the best way is to use a hand solder sucker and add solder to the hole from both directions and apply heat. You could first put some liquid flux in the hole. Do not use the real big solder sucker, but the one you can set with your thumb while holding it. The small sucker will not do the damage to the pad like the larger one

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                                  I don't have any solder suckers. I was thinking of trying to make one using an electronic vacuum pump. Maybe somehow attaching it to the soldering iron and being able to turn it on and off, but I'd need some sort of filter or something to catch the solder. I dunno, it could be fun I guess.
                                  -- Law of Expanding Memory: Applications Will Also Expand Until RAM Is Full

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                                    I wouldn't bother. Get a clone 474A+ desoldering station. They're cheap and will work much better than a homemade one for the same price.

                                    If you can afford it, get a genuine Hakko one.
                                    "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                                    -David VanHorn

                                    Comment


                                      #19
                                      Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                                      Originally posted by Spork Schivago View Post
                                      I don't have any solder suckers. I was thinking of trying to make one using an electronic vacuum pump. Maybe somehow attaching it to the soldering iron and being able to turn it on and off, but I'd need some sort of filter or something to catch the solder. I dunno, it could be fun I guess.
                                      Doesn't have to be fancy. This is the one I use:
                                      http://www.parts-express.com/sterlin...ucker--370-255
                                      It was available at my local store also. It works well for those stubborn through holes that wont come clean and if memory serves it was only ~$15

                                      Comment


                                        #20
                                        Re: Suggestions for desoldering braid.

                                        Originally posted by nojgib View Post
                                        Doesn't have to be fancy. This is the one I use:
                                        http://www.parts-express.com/sterlin...ucker--370-255
                                        It was available at my local store also. It works well for those stubborn through holes that wont come clean and if memory serves it was only ~$15


                                        Yes this one will work fine. If you were desoldering over 35 holes a week and you were pressed for time then a pneumatic desolderer would be worth it. What pace use to use to collect solder was cotton like in cotton balls.

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