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LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

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    #41
    Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

    @godnr - you need a capacitance meter or a DMM with a cap range.

    >>And it's doubtful that I can test them without desoldering them.<<

    You didn't read the last line of my post.

    There is a large thread in here somewhere on soldering irons and stations. I think it's "recommend me a soldering station" or like that.

    Aoyue is rebranded same as BlackJack from HKFA Co., LLC ®.

    I have the BlackJack.

    Hot air station is overkill for removing or replacing these caps. Some solder-wick and a large enough tip (size-wise not heat) will do fine. Or, you can get some Chip-Quik and go that way.

    The trick is not to move them until the solder is liquid and you've popped the glue bond. Typical problem is movement of one end while the other is still bonded resulting in peeling the plating off and making it unusable. Get it flowing on both ends, then a gentle twisting action will break the glue.

    Toast
    veritas odium parit

    Comment


      #42
      Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

      I was looking at the Blackjack BK-5000. It's pretty cheap. I was going to buy one for other projects.

      How do you like the Blackjack? I could have used the hot air gun to remove a card slot from a Nintendo DS board a while back.

      I'll try to find that thread. Thanks for all the info.

      Comment


        #43
        Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

        Appreciate the info, Toasty. All the stuff I've been doing is with "old school" Wellers and great care. As far as meters... a fluke w/o cap range (I'm from the analog deflection days) and a Huntron tracker. Nothing that gives actual values. Sorry vsp900!

        Comment


          #44
          Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

          I've got the same PSU from a friend here, but it's not fried yet.
          Only R302 was the cause for the "dying-electronics"-smell which came from his PowermacG5 (was immediately shut down when my friend located that the smell was coming from the PSU of his PowermacG5).

          R302 looks a little burned. After removing R302 it measures 100.8OHM.
          Q302, Q301, Q2, D2 and Q1 aren't shorted (yet). Everything looks fine - except R302.

          What do you think is the cause of the failing R302? Does it start to go bad from age or may be some failing caps the cause?

          I have no clue where to start - except replacing all the caps that are around the big heatsinks and replacing R302 of course.

          I appreciate any help

          Comment


            #45
            Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

            Don't forget to check the snubber and the xformer for shorted turns if you have the equipment.
            Thats not a Fuhjyyu I used in your antec PSU its a HITACHI!! rofl lol lmao funni gui!

            Comment


              #46
              Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

              Originally posted by Fallen Wolf View Post
              I've got the same PSU from a friend here, but it's not fried yet.
              Only R302 was the cause for the "dying-electronics"-smell which came from his PowermacG5 (was immediately shut down when my friend located that the smell was coming from the PSU of his PowermacG5).

              R302 looks a little burned. After removing R302 it measures 100.8OHM.
              Q302, Q301, Q2, D2 and Q1 aren't shorted (yet). Everything looks fine - except R302.

              What do you think is the cause of the failing R302? Does it start to go bad from age or may be some failing caps the cause?

              I have no clue where to start - except replacing all the caps that are around the big heatsinks and replacing R302 of course.

              I appreciate any help
              A well lit photo from side of area East and West of R302 please. Dust it out first please.
              Check Q1 for a discolored area right up the middle of the device. May need jeweler's loupe to see. Macro photo of that area is good too.

              Check C301/302 for discoloration or shade difference from end to end. Examine with bright light and mirror for cracks or discharge. Especially the heatsink side as it can hide problems. Or desolder them and physically examine. White goop on board will likely make them difficult to remove.

              Replacement of output caps should be secondary.

              Must repair the R302 problem first. Be sure to use the in-series 100w lamp to test to avoid destroying components.
              https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=23

              Please report back.

              Toast
              veritas odium parit

              Comment


                #47
                Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                Originally posted by Fallen Wolf
                <snip>R302 looks a little burned. After removing R302 it measures 100.8OHM.<snip>
                That is the correct value. A 100Ω, 3w, fusible resistor.
                veritas odium parit

                Comment


                  #48
                  Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                  Thanks for your answers

                  Originally posted by riotpack View Post
                  Don't forget to check the snubber and the xformer for shorted turns if you have the equipment.
                  I don't think that I can check that with my multimeter (a PeakTech 3340 DDM) - or at least I don't know how to do so ^^


                  Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                  A well lit photo from side of area East and West of R302 please. Dust it out first please.
                  Hope that the pictures show everything
                  My desoldering-skills aren't that great, but I got the xformer out which was blocking the view on Q1.

                  Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                  Check Q1 for a discolored area right up the middle of the device. May need jeweler's loupe to see. Macro photo of that area is good too.
                  There is something like a scratch or a crack on the left side and on the right side of Q1.

                  Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                  Check C301/302 for discoloration or shade difference from end to end. Examine with bright light and mirror for cracks or discharge. Especially the heatsink side as it can hide problems. Or desolder them and physically examine. White goop on board will likely make them difficult to remove.
                  There are clearly visible shade differences from end to end of C301+C302. How do I determine the values of these and which should I take for replacement?

                  Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                  Must repair the R302 problem first. Be sure to use the in-series 100w lamp to test to avoid destroying components.
                  https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=23
                  Unfortunately the 100W lightbulbs aren't sold here anymore (because of stupid EU-laws )....
                  Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                  That is the correct value. A 100Ω, 3w, fusible resistor.
                  I thought it was a 2W resistor:
                  Originally posted by godonr View Post
                  [...]R302 (2w/100ohm) resistor[...]
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #49
                    Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                    If 100W lightbulbs aren't being sold anymore (here neither but i stocked up ), use two 60W in parallel. One might not be enough to start the supply.
                    Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                    Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                    A working TV? How boring!

                    Comment


                      #50
                      Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                      WOW!! Excellent photos!

                      My apologies. I made a mistake in designation when I said Q1. I've been on the iMac G5 PSU's so much, I screwed up. The failure on them is Q1, which is similar to this unit. Sorry you had to pull the transformer.

                      The transistor I wanted you to look at is on the solder side, right by Q301's drain (center leg). It's designation is Q352. It's very tiny so that was why I wanted the well lit macro shot.

                      The "real" Q1 is likely fine. The crack you may be seeing is probably a molding line when it was manufactured. But, if in fact there is a crack, then something else is wrong, and we'll need to pursue that.

                      C302 looks bad. No crack in casing? Regardless, replace both C301 & C302.

                      0.1uF - 400v - Metallized Polypropylene Film (there's a mouthful)

                      104K = 100nF = 100,000pF (10 + 4 zeroes) + K = 10% tolerance

                      I'm using 80-PHE426KB6100JR06 from Mouser:
                      http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...E426KB6100JR06

                      These are the only ones I could find in stock that match dimension. They are listed as pulse film capacitors and are intended for SMPS. You need 15mm lead spacing.

                      >>I thought it was a 2W resistor:<<

                      So did I, but the new one I received looks more like a 1 watt.

                      Toast
                      Last edited by Toasty; 02-06-2011, 06:47 PM.
                      veritas odium parit

                      Comment


                        #51
                        Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                        Thanks for your replies
                        Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                        The transistor I wanted you to look at is on the solder side, right by Q301's drain (center leg). It's designation is Q352. It's very tiny so that was why I wanted the well lit macro shot.

                        The "real" Q1 is likely fine. The crack you may be seeing is probably a molding line when it was manufactured. But, if in fact there is a crack, then something else is wrong, and we'll need to pursue that.
                        It doesn't feel like a crack when I move over it with my fingernail - but I'm not 100% sure.
                        The shots of Q352 are attached to this post (the autofocus of my old Canon-EOS20D is a little buggy and I don't have a macro for it, hope the pictures are okay). Q352 isn't shorted and IMO doesn't look faulty.
                        Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                        C302 looks bad. No crack in casing? Regardless, replace both C301 & C302.

                        0.1uF - 400v - Metallized Polypropylene Film (there's a mouthful)

                        104K = 100nF = 100,000pF (10 + 4 zeroes) + K = 10% tolerance

                        I'm using 80-PHE426KB6100JR06 from Mouser:
                        http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...E426KB6100JR06

                        These are the only ones I could find in stock that match dimension. They are listed as pulse film capacitors and are intended for SMPS. You need 15mm lead spacing.
                        Shipping costs to Germany from Mouser are a little overkill so I searched at reichelt.de but could only find the following WIMA-ones:
                        a) http://www.reichelt.de/?;ARTICLE=32018 [WIMA MP 3-X2 275 V 0,1 UF | 100nF, 275VAC, LowESR, 110°C]
                        b) http://www.reichelt.de/?;ARTICLE=8060 [WIMA MKP-X2 275 V 0,1 UF | 100nF, 250VAC, 85°C]
                        c) http://www.reichelt.de/?;ARTICLE=12423 [WIMA MKS 4 10% 400 V 0,1 UF RM 15 | 100nF, 200VAC]
                        Which ones would be okay to use?

                        Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                        >>I thought it was a 2W resistor:<<

                        So did I, but the new one I received looks more like a 1 watt.
                        http://www.reichelt.de/?;ARTICLE=2312 [VITROHM PO593-0 5T 100 R]
                        Would this one be okay?


                        BTW: I found a 100W lightbulb still for sale at reichelt.de - hope it's still available when I order the parts there
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                          #52
                          Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                          [WIMA MKS 4 10% 400 V 0,1 UF RM 15 | 100nF, 200VAC] is close, but its metallized polyester film, not metallized polypropylene film

                          This is the right -type-, *BUT* its a 630v device and the leg spacing is too wide. It's 22.5mm where you need 15mm.

                          http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ART...78;PROVID=2402

                          The resistor is a -fusible- resistor. Circuit protection and resistor in one. I tried their search, but I'm sure I did not get the German words correct for fusible resistor.

                          What other suppliers do you have access to?

                          Toast
                          veritas odium parit

                          Comment


                            #53
                            Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                            Thanks for your reply
                            Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                            [WIMA MKS 4 10% 400 V 0,1 UF RM 15 | 100nF, 200VAC] is close, but its metallized polyester film, not metallized polypropylene film
                            hmm...so I assume that it's not suitable as a replacement.
                            Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                            This is the right -type-, *BUT* its a 630v device and the leg spacing is too wide. It's 22.5mm where you need 15mm.

                            http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ART...78;PROVID=2402
                            I found one at conrad.de: KONDENS. MKP4 0,100uF 400VDC 20% (Conrad Electronic) [German Datasheet]
                            Is this one suitable as replacement?

                            Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                            The resistor is a -fusible- resistor. Circuit protection and resistor in one. I tried their search, but I'm sure I did not get the German words correct for fusible resistor.
                            That's the datasheet of the Vitrohm-resistor from reichelt.de.

                            The other 100OHM 2W resistor I found at reichelt.de is this one: http://www.reichelt.de/?;ARTICLE=2277 [VITROHM BW235-0 10T 100 R]

                            It doesn't say that it's fusible. Does "fusible" mean that it goes open-circuit when it fails or what is the difference to a "normal" non-fusible resistor?
                            Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                            What other suppliers do you have access to?
                            The ones I know of are www.conrad.de www.pollin.de www.reichelt.de and of course Ebay.

                            Comment


                              #54
                              Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                              All of the listings for those caps from Conrad have reversed voltage ratings.

                              V/DC/220 400 V / AC =is really= V/DC/400 220 V/AC

                              That cap looks fine.

                              >>Does "fusible" mean that it goes open-circuit when it fails...<<

                              Yes. Exactly.

                              Toast
                              veritas odium parit

                              Comment


                                #55
                                Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                                Sorry about the confusion about the wattage on R302. The one I looked at was burned and had 2W above the 100 ohm. Pulled a good one and there's a "J" (2WJ). No value ID bands to go by either. So, I guess the value is still unknown. I've got a 3W I'm thinking of trying if I can figure out what took the original out. Anyone had any success with these supplies yet?

                                Comment


                                  #56
                                  Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                                  In the 7 years or so since these were made, the technology has gotten better. I did not care for the size of the 2W I received. I chose a 3W which turned out to be a better match in size.

                                  >>...if I can figure out what took the original out. <<

                                  See Post 50 and the pics from 48 above.

                                  Also examine C303 for damage or discoloration. It probably got charred from R302 smoking, but that is not what you're looking for. Pull it and look at it carefully. Same as C301/C302 exam where any darkening of the base color (see pic in #48 of C302 by itself) indicates a problem. Mine had a tiny black spot on the R302 side. I could not determine whether it was damage from the resistor or an arc event, so I'm replacing it also. Same replacement series as the other 2.

                                  Mouser: 80-PHE426KB6470JR06
                                  http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...E426KB6470JR06

                                  Toast
                                  Last edited by Toasty; 02-21-2011, 08:21 PM.
                                  veritas odium parit

                                  Comment


                                    #57
                                    Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                                    Did you loose F1 along with C303, C302, C301, R302? I have one where the obvious damage was F1 blown and R302 burned. I was looking at Q301 and Q302 failures.

                                    Comment


                                      #58
                                      Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                                      Yes. Also 'upgraded' the fuse to a snap in cartridge rather than soldered in. Bought the clips and modded the board to accept. The regular ceramic fuses are cheaper than the leaded (pigtail) variety also.

                                      Toast
                                      veritas odium parit

                                      Comment


                                        #59
                                        Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                                        Did the same with F1 on the one board (not that I'm cheap or anything, ha). Have to bail right now but will follow up soon. Don't have those caps unless I take them from another board. Would rather do it right with new. Thanks for the info.

                                        Comment


                                          #60
                                          Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP

                                          Need to know if Q301 (17N80C3) and Q302 (FQP7N80) can be read with a regular DVM or do you need higher voltage to gate them. Q1 and Q2 respond as you'd expect but Q301 tends to read shorted and Q302 open across all legs. Also, was able to get some 301s at Mouser but not 302. Anyone have a source for it? Thanks

                                          Comment

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