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#1 |
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![]() Turned it on and heard a loud pop, opened it and a small 10uf 50v electrolytic capacitors had blown up.
Is it safe to replace with a higher value like 47uf 100v? Or does it have to be exact value of old? |
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#2 |
New Member
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![]() thank you
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#3 |
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![]() i would put a regular ballast in and starter if it doesn't already have one . less to go wrong
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#4 |
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#5 |
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![]() That capacitor is probably for limiting base-drive, so if it popped I think a transistor is shorted. Usually the lamp fails open circuit and then the PSU dies.
These schematics are similar to your circuit but not exact - it's a two transistor resonant oscillator. The Philips/Osram one has no 10uF 50V cap. I don't see filament connections in that desklamp, only 2-wires leaving the PSU. |
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#6 | |
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#7 |
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![]() I say you can use a larger value OK. But it will pop... larger... If the transistors are bad.
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#8 | |
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![]() Quote:
Curious when is the exact capacitor value replacement necessary? What circuits can't be altered by higher capacitor values than original Last edited by caphair; 03-11-2017 at 10:15 PM.. |
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#9 |
Solder Sloth
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![]() petehall347, I'm sorry, I'm tired of those magnetic ballasts that flicker at 100/120 cycles/second... The electronic ballasts, though quite a bit more fragile, are smaller, lighter, more power efficient, and usually starts lighting faster.
caphair, likely you will have to carefully check each of the transistors for shorts, as well as making sure the input fuseable resistor didn't fry. Unfortunately all of the electronic ballasts I've had when they do go, tend to fry transistors and then input circuitry - a big domino effect. |
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#10 | |
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#11 |
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![]() Resistors are cheaper than proper fuses.
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#12 |
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![]() might not flash the same running off dc voltage . i have to try it soon so will let you know if it works out ok .
we are on 50hz here so its worse for me . ![]() Last edited by petehall347; 03-12-2017 at 05:25 PM.. |
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#13 |
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![]() Why fusible resistor?
http://powerelectronics.com/passive-...t-applications The flickering rate will be 100 Hz, Electronic ballast uses much higher frequency.
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Never stop learning Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#14 |
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![]() Revisiting this. Changed the cap and one of the transistors previously and it worked all this time.
Just recently quit again, this time no caps blew up and no shorts on the transistors or diodes or any of the caps (tested in ohms settings) Any suggestions? I should just replace it but curious to get it going again |
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#15 |
Solder Sloth
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![]() did the tube go this time?
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#16 |
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#17 |
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![]() How many volts should I see at the lamp terminals when first powered on? I’m measuring 126v then drops to 86v
Does that mean the circuitry is working and possible bad replacement lamp? |
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#18 |
Solder Sloth
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![]() OCV it should be really high and then drop down fast when the light strikes. 126V seems a bit low depending on the length of the tube.
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#19 |
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![]() What would cause it to be low? The tube is small and circular probably 12” give or take
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#20 |
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![]() strike voltage probably comes from an inductor or cap discharging
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