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#1 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2015
City & State: Cambridgeshire
My Country: U.K.
Line Voltage: 240VAC
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 418
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![]() Hi everyone. Not a old computer monitor this timer its something a bit different.
This is a CDI ignition unit from a 1980 Honda CX500. In 1980 all Japanese bike starting replacing the mechanical contact breaker points ignition system with these fully electronic Capacitive discharge units. But trouble is like all electronic components they fail with age and these CDI units are are no longer available. That's progress they say ??? Luckily I found a second hand one thats still working miraculously so can use that to get readings from. Not just that but these CDI units are placed in a steel box and then filled with a resin sealing them tight inside and away from water ingress. I was lucky this one had a slightly softer resin that was almost rubbery and I found I could pick at it with model knives and tiny screwdrivers. It took me 2 days to get it out and then pick away at it to reveal all the components. Many say the main reason these things fail is poor solder joints and they do look a bit rough. Well It was inevitable that a few things might get damaged removing all that resin and I broke 4 resistors and slight damage to one diode and one capacitor, Here are some photos of the unit at different stages. At each end of the board there was a strange twisted wire resistor thingy I have no Ideal of its purpose. There are a few transistors also but they have no markings. I managed to remove the resin from the bottom of it revealing the printed circuit as well. Please can anyone help me identify any of these parts apart from the obvious resistors etc. None of the caps are marked either but there are no electrolytic ones. I removed the two main output Capacitors to get access to the components underneath. Please please help guide me to getting this rebuilt with the faulty parts replaced as its the only way this bike will run when this current still ancient unit I am using also fails. I have uploaded more pictures at https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...2s?usp=sharing |
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#2 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2015
City & State: worcester
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![]() some copper traces look damaged .
did you try petrol to remove the gloop ? |
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#3 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2015
City & State: Cambridgeshire
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![]() Quote:
I am still puzzled what those 2 strange resistor structures are at each end and what they do. |
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#4 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
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![]() remove resin by heating it first, i have de-potted loads of protection devices on arcade boards that way.
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#5 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2015
City & State: Cambridgeshire
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![]() Quote:
Can you enlighten me stj as to the purpose of these 2 resistor structures and each end do. |
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#6 |
Badcaps Veteran
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![]() am guessing they run hot
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#7 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
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![]() I have helped people reverse engineer these, they can get weird because of the Japanese design and the many patents that were out there back in the day.
What part numbers do you have for it? Usually other engines got the same (family) of module. It's a lot of work to recreate one. The oddball resistors up in the air are likely for setting the ignition timing advance curve for the module, to match it to the engine and its crank pickup. The PCB shows one as R2 trimpot but the factory just soldered in those parts. The green TO-220 parts are likely Hitachi SCR's. The green HV caps around 1.5uF 400V. Drawing a schematic is the first step, it's mostly the same circuit 2X. I don't know the bike's wiring, if it's an exciter coil plus trigger coil or what. |
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#8 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2015
City & State: Cambridgeshire
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![]() Quote:
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#9 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
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![]() the resistor stacks could be a heat thing, was this in an aluminium shell?
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#10 |
Badcaps Veteran
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![]() No this was in a steel shell like this
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#11 |
Badcaps Veteran
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![]() Here are a few more pictures of the components. The transistors have no markings but some of the caps have very feint ones. One seems to be showing 40mv/ 0.04.
I am trying to make a component list right now 1st. There is no reason . I have found once most of the resin is removed surgical spirit softens the residents so it can be wiped off the part. Last edited by roadrash; 06-11-2021 at 07:42 AM.. |
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#12 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
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![]() put the green to220 devices in a component tester
![]() do you have a wiring diagram for the bike btw? |
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#13 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2015
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![]() yes here is what the tester says.
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#14 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2015
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![]() also have this little green thing that looks like a ceramic capacitor and has the number 351 on it. My component tester says it's resistor with value 331.4 ohms is this right?
There is a diode to that's tests ok but is this any special type? It has the markings 100 76 and 1R |
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#15 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2018
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![]() (off-topic) The old CX500 flying maggot , a friend of mine had one of those
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#16 |
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![]() Yep, the CX line was interesting with a longitudinal V-twin and shaft drive, kind of like a Honda version of a Moto-Guzzi, except water-cooled and reliable (at least by the standards of the time). My dad had it's big brother (the CX-650) back in the 80s/early-90s.
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#17 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2015
City & State: Cambridgeshire
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![]() yes thats it except we called it the plastic maggot after the little plastic cowl over the headlamp. Most bikes in that era were what we call naked and never had plastic cowls or fairings so hence "plastic"
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#18 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
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![]() 351 could be a cap or a temperature sensitive resistor of some type to limit current.
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#19 |
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![]() Found a schematic and a bit of info .
http://rajamolor.blogspot.com/2008/0...schematic.html https://motovillage.org/wiki/hondacx...=CDI_Schematic https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...FlNWQzYTA3YWM1 |
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#20 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
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![]() The tricky part will be the thermistors. You would have measure their resistance at a few different temperatures to find something that matches. As the SCR's heat up, their sensitivity goes up and the thermistor lowers how much gate drive they get.
I did see a remake of the box called Finnbox G47, the thermistors are on the SCR's tabs. |
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