Has anyone had issues with Rayovac Alkaline batteries leaking

[sam_sam_sam]

I have had several issues with batteries leaking what is going on here

I have emailed the company about this issue and I am waiting for and wanting a reply to this issue

Because I have had a Fluke meter FC3000 battery terminal break and I have not yet found a replacement battery terminals for this model I found it for other Fluke meters but I do not know if they are the exact same battery terminals or not

The email that I sent to the company is very detailed about the issue and that meter has been damaged because of this issue and a battery operated kitchen faucet was also had batteries leaking in the battery compartment which I cleaned but if it starts corroding then there is not much that you can do about it and this device is not cheap to replace

I asked them what are they going to do about this issue

[ron350]

Yep last year or the year before I had a pack of AA’s and a pack of AAA’s all start leaking about the same time.

[sam_sam_sam]

Those are the same sizes that are leaking for me as well with an expiration date of 2028 and 2029

[retiredcaps]

Start using low self discharge nimh cells (AA and AAA) in your expensive equipment. Sanyo/Panasonic Eneloops are the gold standard, but it's rumored that Ikea Ladda Made in Japan nimh are made in the same factory and specs as Eneloops, but are much cheaper.

I only use Eneloops in all my stuff now for the last 11 years. Zero leaks.

One of my original AA Eneloops has been recharged about 1,500 (not a typo) times over the last 10 years and still holds 1800mAh+ (out of a max rated 2000mAh and min rated 1900mAh).

[redwire]

Environmental regulations banning mercury in alkaline batteries, means they now off-gas and leak. Bitumen was also used for the seal and may have also been demonized and replaced with something crappy.

For the dollars and hassle, I have changed over to Eneloops (Dell has them on sale sometimes) or Ikea Ladda which also seem to be good. Ladda I don't find them the same as the Eneloops and the lineup was changed this year, but anything is better than leaking Duracells.
I use vinegar to clean out and neutralize the alkaline potassium hydroxide mess, then a water rinse. I find IPA does not work so good.

There are replacement Fluke battery clips on fleaBay from china; translation called them "schrapnel" for some weird reason. Not sure what the FC3000 uses.

[momaka]

In my experience, I don't think this battery leakage problem is unique to Rayovac or any other brand anymore. I find pretty much all alkaline battery brands nowadays to leak like crazy for whatever reason. Not sure what's changed, but 10 years ago, it was just Duracell that started doing this first... and subsequently Ikea and Costo Kirkland alkalines a little later. Related? -Possibly. In any case, at least the other brands were generally OK. But now - it seems every brand is affected.

For this reason, I have started to avoid alkaline batteries whenever possible.
For smoke detectors, remote controllers, and other applications with low drain, I've rediscovered / switched back to the good old Carbon Zinc ("Heavy Duty" / "Super Heavy Duty") chemistry. And from those, Panasonic and Toshiba are still the best, IMO - no leaks, and they will last for years and years without issue. On that note, the original C-Zn Panasonic batteries that came with my parents' DVD/home theater system are close to 15 years old now! Not only have they not leaked, but they are still holding up and used in the remote for that DVD player. (And yes, that DVD/home theater does see a lot of use, because it's used every time the TV is On.)

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

Start using low self discharge nimh cells (AA and AAA) in your expensive equipment. Sanyo/Panasonic Eneloops are the gold standard, but it's rumored that Ikea Ladda Made in Japan nimh are made in the same factory and specs as Eneloops, but are much cheaper.

+1

My sister switched to Ikea LADDA rechargeable batteries for her son's toys and... going 4-6 years now without any issues. Some of the toys he doesn't use very often, so it's a good thing these LADDA batteries have low self-discharge. On the other hand, they can also provide a high current easily when it's needed. So they are pretty good quality.

Originally Posted by stj

i have had fucking duracell's leak while still sealed in the bubble-pack!!
i wouldnt guarantee them for 10 months!

And you're right about that!

My mother bought an 8-pack of the Duraleaks (AAA "Optimum") because she needed one for an old MP3 player that she uses very infrequently. Luckily, I remembered to check on her MP3 player after I saw the packet. The single Duraleak inside it was just starting to form droplets on the edges of its bottom, though they hadn't quite reached the battery terminal springs of the MP3 player. And this was after not even 6 months of storage (!) after the very occasional use that the MP3 player saw. I checked the rest of the AAA's in that pack, and another one was starting to have droplet formations.

So I pulled the two AAA's with the droplets and set them aside. But I didn't throw them away - I'll be damned if Duraleak can make a fool of me like this. Instead, I wiped the moisture from these two cells and started using them in my headphones (need 1x AAA battery for NC), since I use those almost daily and typically for several hours. Of course, I'd remove the Duraleak after each session. But because of my high usage, I'll drain a regular AAA alkaline with these headphones in about 3-4 weeks max. This allowed me to get the first Duraleak completely used up before it totally pissed its pants. I'm now onto the 2nd leaking one... and waiting for it to die any day now. After this, I'll be back to my regular NiMH rechargeables... unless there are more Duraleaks from that 8-pack that need draining (I suspect there will be.)

Originally Posted by stj

you buy cheap $ store alk's because anything beats durasell and keep an eye on them.

Sad but true, unfortunately.
The "Rocket" alkaline batteries that came in my parents' Samsung TV's remote just started leaking last year - that is a good 9 or so years after the TV was purchased. You will not find a modern Duracell battery last that long, or even a small fraction of that time. The only Duracell alkaline batteries that I have that haven't leaked yet are really old stuff from the early 2000's. I don't know what Duracell did differently back then, but their batteries actually lasted damn well and rarely ever leaked. But now... half a year on the shelf, tops, before they start going. Same goes for Ikea and Costco's Kirkland brand alkaline batteries.

On that note, I'm curious to try Harbor Freight's alkaline batteries. Unfortunately, I don't use batteries that often anymore. So it's rare when I have to purchase any... and that's usually 9V ones for the smoke detectors inside the house (whose old batteries I transfer to use in my cheap multimeters afterwards.)

[lti]

Originally Posted by momaka

For this reason, I have started to avoid alkaline batteries whenever possible.
For smoke detectors, remote controllers, and other applications with low drain, I've rediscovered / switched back to the good old Carbon Zinc ("Heavy Duty" / "Super Heavy Duty") chemistry. And from those, Panasonic and Toshiba are still the best, IMO - no leaks, and they will last for years and years without issue. On that note, the original C-Zn Panasonic batteries that came with my parents' DVD/home theater system are close to 15 years old now! Not only have they not leaked, but they are still holding up and used in the remote for that DVD player. (And yes, that DVD/home theater does see a lot of use, because it's used every time the TV is On.)

I still have some old Walgreens "heavy duty" batteries that are close to 10 years old.

Originally Posted by momaka

Duraleaks (AAA "Optimum")

Those are the ones I mentioned that came in a cardboard box that hid the leaks. I don't remember all of the battery names.

Originally Posted by momaka

9V ones for the smoke detectors inside the house (whose old batteries I transfer to use in my cheap multimeters afterwards.)

I do that too, except I have a huge pile now.

[sam_sam_sam]

I did get a reply from my email about issues I am having with there batteries
They want pictures of the devices in question
They want pictures of batteries in question
They want the pictures of damage to the devices in question
They want pictures of the sale invoice or a link for the device from a company website
They want to know what the device is used for
And requesting to me not to continue to use the batteries in question

I have sent them the information request that they are asking for

[redwire]

You need to know how much damage was done in dollars.
I went through the process with Duracell and they freaked out with the dollar value of the multimeter. They don't know what to do when it's not a cheap flashlight or kid's toy or TV remote control. Expensive gear they think you are trying to rip them off instead of understanding cheap batteries can be in expensive situations.

A lawsuit about leaking Duracell batteries as false-advertising, did not work unfortunately. I recently read California 4/2016 "A federal judge threw out a lawsuit accusing Procter & Gamble Co PG.N of misleading consumers by guaranteeing that Duracell batteries would not fail for 10 years, when in fact the batteries might leak when used or stored normally."
"Judge Koh said reasonable consumers would understand that P&G’s representation that the batteries were “guaranteed for 10 years in storage” was a warranty to repair, replace or refund batteries that failed within that timeframe, and not a promise that the batteries “have no potential to leak.”
"She also said in her 33-page decision that the complaint did not identify any cause, including any design or manufacturing defect, as to why the batteries might leak."

She didn't do a thing about damages. It's just stupid- all you'd get is replacement batteries and have no consequences to making junk product that leaks.

[stj]

i have had fucking duracell's leak while still sealed in the bubble-pack!!
i wouldnt guarantee them for 10 months!

[lti]

Originally Posted by stj

i have had fucking duracell's leak while still sealed in the bubble-pack!!
i wouldnt guarantee them for 10 months!

I've seen them leak while they were still on store shelves.

During one of their many marketing troll renaming stunts (selling a "longer lasting" model that was identical to the standard model), they switched to a cardboard box with a tiny window on the front, so you couldn't see them leaking until you opened the box. I think I posted about one of those packages having every single battery leaking inside it.

For poorly-designed products that don't work with NiMH batteries, I've heard that the Energizer lithium batteries are better, but I have seen them leak. The leaking ones were past the use-by date, so that could probably be excused.

[RJARRRPCGP]

Originally Posted by lti

I've heard that the Energizer lithium batteries are better, but I have seen them leak. The leaking ones were past the use-by date, so that could probably be excused.

I like the Energizer lithium AA batteries. I don't know if anything can beat them in portable audio players. For non-rechargeables, they look like the go-tos!

I probably would recommend them, for people who didn't get Ni-MH or Li-ion AAs for a ton of things, including wireless game controllers.

[sam_sam_sam]

Then is just bunch of crap and the guarantee does not mean shit so what do you do if nicad batteries do not work correctly in certain devices

Yeah you can buy 1.5 volt Li-Ion batteries but how do you good ones from bad ones

Because alkaline batteries are becoming more expensive and not lasting long enough anymore

Because I have a lot device that takes AAA and AA batteries
The AA batteries have the Li-Ion more options
The AAA batteries have the less Li-Ion options

[stj]

you buy cheap $ store alk's because anything beats durasell and keep an eye on them.

OR

you look at other technologies,
or you can use AA or AAA size lithiums and adapt the device.

[mosfetratus]

Originally Posted by stj

you buy cheap $ store alk's because anything beats durasell and keep an eye on them.

OR

you look at other technologies,
or you can use AA or AAA size lithiums and adapt the device.

Confirmed.
duracell is pure garbage, they piss before expiring.

[CapLeaker]

the only alkaline that didn't leak even after 18 years not were made by Maxell. Like others, I switched from alkaline batteries over to eneloop, duraloop, fujitu, whatever eneloop rebrand made in japan and I don't look back.

[sam_sam_sam]

I am looking for 1.5 volt buck converter but have not had much finding any that have a small board

Can anyone please help me with this

Also who makes a good 14650 or 14500 battery I would prefer that they were made in Japan li-ion batteries
4.2 volts

[stj]

i have bucks that can go atleast down to 1.8v - you could try messing with the resistor values on one.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32842409405.html

i use these a lot - the pads match the pinout of a 78xx linear regulator

[CapLeaker]

I use these Anyvolts:

https://www.robotshop.com/en/dimensi...regulator.html

[retiredcaps]

RayOVac's in Fluke 189. See

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testge...attery-leaked/