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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#81 | |
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![]() Quote:
I would also like to know the value of capacitors in the picture Last edited by elsayed; 04-26-2018 at 01:13 PM.. |
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#82 |
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City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
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![]() That could be kinda tricky, we could only guesstimate. Or somebody with the same display can possibly desolder one and measure.
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#83 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
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Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
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![]() I am curious, are the parts in that section damaged or missing?
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Never stop learning Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#84 |
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![]() If there was the silicone, I would guess maybe damaged
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#85 |
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#86 |
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![]() In my case (2007FPB) it was R50 on the USB board that was open. Labeled as 01C (10K Ohm).
Managed to pull one of the pads off when I was desoldering the resistor, but there is another spot just next to the pad I was able to get to. Not sure why Dell felt the need to gunk up this area with the silicone. Would have been a TON easier to troubleshoot without it. Threw a 1/4watt 10k in the spot and everything appears to be back to normal. Yes these are old monitors, but they're still a good looking unit for doing standard office work. I've got 2 of them, one left and one right of a 24" Apple somethingorother (got it free, also a nice monitor) |
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#87 |
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![]() Does anyone have any suggestions for how to remove the white glue?
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#88 |
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![]() You just have to carefully scrape it off with something plastic. There's not much else that will do it. I don't think there's any chemical that would take care of it and not hurt the board.
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#89 |
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![]() Thanks. Rubbing alcohol didn't do anything. Was thinking of applying a caulk remover. This stuff is on there pretty good. Hard to believe I can get it clean enough to see what's underneath. Just assumed somebody found an easy solution.
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#90 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
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![]() My favourite tool - dental explorer - works fine
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#91 |
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![]() My second 2007FPB took a dump earlier today. Immediately went to the resistors and there were 3 of them pretty far out of spec, a 2.7k 47k and 75k. Oddly the 10k's that were bad on my other monitor showed fine. I'll have to look at the pictures I took to see if the boards are different. But its back up and running like it should be.
I do know my eyes and hands are getting too old to deal with SMD stuff with the equipment I have on hand...that's for sure. |
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#92 |
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![]() Hi everyone,
I have a Dell 2007FPb and found this thread with others experiencing my issue. My monitor turns on for about a half a second before the screen turns black. This is in the self test mode also. I took it apart and did not find any bulging or leaking capacitors. I tried replacing the 272 resistor others had mentioned in this thread, but it did not work and my symptoms are the same. Additionally I did not have a dielectric white blob on my board when I opened it like others have seen. See the last picture where I almost exactly copied someone earlier in this thread with a 1 W resistor. I don’t really know where to go from here. I really love this monitor, it was my favorite monitor because it was so bright and crisp and sharp colors. I would REALLY like to get it working. I have a multimeter, but I have never used one before, and it’s a cheap harbor freight one. I don’t know if it is up to the task but I will measure anything anyone asks me to measure and report back. Does anyone have any ideas please? I have included pictures front and back of all four of my boards below. Thank you so much for your time. To try to fix this issue I have reviewed all of this thread and also a similar thread: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8603 |
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#93 |
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City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
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![]() Does it shut down completely, or just the backlight?
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#94 |
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![]() I reassembled it just to test. Self test comes on for half a second, and then the screen goes black. The power light and the number 2 light stay lit. It does not appear to be backlit, and when I shine my mobile phone light on the screen I don’t see anything. I ordered another multimeter on Amazon and expect it to arrive tomorrow. Thank you for responding.
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#95 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
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![]() Phone's usually not enough, there are two polarisation filters 90° against each other so almost no light comes through, you need some strong light to se. However if the indicator LEDs are on, likely just the backlight is the problem.
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#96 |
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![]() What should I do or check next?
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#97 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
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![]() Check the secondary sides of those three inverter transformers, if all six have the same (within 1-2 %) resistance.
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#98 | |
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![]() Quote:
Chip 1 - 878 and 1037 Chip 2 - 1029 and 1029 Chip 3 - 1020 and 1017 Last edited by Muggz; 06-01-2020 at 03:33 PM.. |
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#99 |
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![]() If that's correct, first transformer's busted, that's what's making the driver shut down.
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#100 |
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![]() Thanks! I wasn’t sure how to look up and order transformers. It doesn’t seem to be as easy as resistors. So I picked up an inverter board for $12 off of eBay. It should arrive in a week and hopefully I can pull one of the transformers off of that.
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