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#21 |
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 82
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#22 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() That's nasty. The only time I've seen anything that even comes close to that was the PSU from a computer that lived near the coast. One day it went BANG. I opened it and noticed that the PCB was wet (salt water?). Unfortunatly, when this PSU died it took the motherboard out. It was a shame as it was a good PSU (FSP).
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I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!! No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards ![]() Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro |
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#23 |
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 82
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![]() The machine it came out of seems to have been around moisture for quite some time, an almost cough-syrup like substance, as there's a whole bunch of dust stuck to one part of the unit. I REALLY need to repair it, as these machines are quite rare, and a new one costs upwards for $200 if you want something that won't break (I paid $40).
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#24 | |
Large Marge
Join Date: Aug 2008
City & State: Kalamazoo, MI
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 0-120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 2,924
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![]() Quote:
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#25 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() This is an old 400W Generic PSU. It would make some strange hissing and zapping noises when plugged in, me and my best friend sprayed lots and lots of WD-40 in it and dropped a match in. Here's the carnaige.
PS. I removed the fan first so I can use it as a case fan. |
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#26 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 28,332
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![]() you should have rescued the cables first - i find lots of short cable very usefull.
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#27 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2009
City & State: Williamsburg, Virginia
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,229
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![]() Now you can post an ad on Ebay................one slightly burned computer power supply, $75. As is, no return!
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Old proverb say.........If you shoot at nothing, you will hit nothing (George Henry 10-14-11) |
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#28 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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#29 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Here's another one, an Excel 450W (I doubt if it would actually be 450W, probably 250W MAX). It wouldn't even turn a computer on. Note the burn marks in the pics. I'll probably do the same thing to this as I did to that other cheap one (set it on fire). I LOVED hearing those caps pop.
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#30 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Europe
My Country: some shithole run by Israeli agents
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 28,332
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![]() why not put a big load like a 100w lamp or 3 on it and power it up outdoors to go boom?
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#31 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2009
City & State: Thessaloniki, Greece
My Country: Greece
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 2,140
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![]() You need to be more eco friendly :P
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#32 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() It's already fried. I also like using WD-40 or something flammable like that as it keeps it burning for longer (long enough for all the caps to pop). Also, if I do want it to explode like that, I just put the voltage selector in 110 volts (We have 240V here in Australia). If it doesn't have one, short the two pads fhere it was meant to go on the PCB.
Last edited by c_hegge; 01-06-2010 at 03:34 PM.. |
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#33 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,139
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![]() Quote:
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-...8volts-DC-at-/ Just remove the 5vsb circuit on the primary side, then find an adapter anywhere between 7v and 40v to power the PWM controller (since 5vsb is dead) and the PSU should be working again. |
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#34 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Can't be bothered re-capping it as well as finding a substitute for the dead rail. It's full of fuhjyyu (and the 5vsb one is leaking). I don't usually bother repairing PSUs unless they are really good in all other ways (like the Channel-well made Antecs).
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#35 |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,139
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![]() I know what you mean, I wouldn't put money in repairing a PSU like that either (let alone putting it in a computer). But if I find the right parts for free, perhaps I would. The good thing about broken stuff like that is that you can try and fix them with whatever you find, and even if it doesn't work or if it blows up, you don't loose much (except for some time). And if you do manage to fix it, you see what works and what doesn't (kind of like one of 370's threads where he swapped transformers from one PSU into another and it worked).
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#36 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Took this one home from work today, along with 2 Fuhjyyu'd Antecs. It's a Sun Pro, supposedly 550W, although I doubt it would be anywhere near that. The caps are either branded "CS", "GL", or "JEE". Two caps are bloated (although it may not be obvious in the pics) one is a 2200uF 10v JEE and the other is a 1000uF 10v CS. Note the discolouration around the middle of the PCB.
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#37 |
Black Sheep
Join Date: Nov 2008
City & State: Madison, IN
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 16,674
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![]() "jee"!
4 diodes! ![]() look at the heat damage. edit- OMG! look at that fake y cap on the secondary board attached to the ac plug! one of the leads is shorting the AC! ![]() gut it!
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(Insert witty quote here) Last edited by ratdude747; 01-19-2010 at 09:44 PM.. |
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#38 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Actually, it probably can really manage 550 Watts.....For half a second!
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#39 |
Large Marge
Join Date: Aug 2008
City & State: Kalamazoo, MI
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 0-120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 2,924
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![]() Also note the second primary switcher that is split in half
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#40 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,295
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![]() That size of recifier bridge diodes on input side. That won't let PSU go all the way. These is rated 1A max.
Cheers, Wizard |
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