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#81 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Illinois
Posts: 432
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![]() Nice. Its sad to think that someone sits there and removes parts until the thing stops working. Then they just put the very last part back and ship it! I didn't notice the lack of a bridge rectifier until you pointed it out. I guess they ran out of them that day! And I just noticed that like yours, the primary filter caps on mine are rated for only 200v. So much for being able to use the high side of the 120v/230v selector switch! They could have left that off and saved another 2 cents. I guess I'll tuck this one away for possible repair in the future just in case.
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#82 |
Large Marge
Join Date: Aug 2008
City & State: Kalamazoo, MI
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 0-120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 2,924
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![]() The two primary caps are in series, so they can handle 400V total, but only 165uf of capacitance combined. (almost all non-APFC designs use this. APFC designs use a single 400-450V cap to save room for the APFC circuitry.)
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#83 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Illinois
Posts: 432
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![]() That makes sense. I guess even for an el-cheapo PSU, purposely over-volting the primary filter caps would be taking it too far.
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#84 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,147
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![]() Quote:
Instead, try measuring resistance between middle and outside pins. On this one you shouldn't get a short circuit. Also, you only have 330uF capacitors on the primary, so don't expect more than 200-250 watts from this thing. Last edited by momaka; 07-18-2010 at 10:55 PM.. |
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#85 | |
Large Marge
Join Date: Aug 2008
City & State: Kalamazoo, MI
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 0-120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 2,924
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#86 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Another Excel. It's rated for 400W - ROFLMHO.
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I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!! No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards ![]() Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro |
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#87 |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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#88 |
Black Sheep
Join Date: Nov 2008
City & State: Madison, IN
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 16,675
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![]() not as bad as the 480 watt echo star with the dummy weights, but still disappointing. the secondary is tiny, ant the primary has 4 diodes. total junk
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#89 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2005
City & State: Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist
Posts: 2,008
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![]() The blown Sanyo TT2144 primary transistors were only rated for 250W power supplies: http://www.sacsys.com.tw/marcom/epap...-new/Sanyo.pdf
A possible substitute for the TT2144 is the TT2194 (500VCBo, 400VCEo, 12A, 50W).
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My first choice in quality Japanese electrolytics is Nippon Chemi-Con, which has been in business since 1931... the quality of electronics is dependent on the quality of the electrolytics. |
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#90 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,147
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![]() Quote:
That's actually not that much of a problem. Line voltage in Australia is 230v so even if these diodes are rated for 1.5A each, the PSU can still pull 345 watts theoretically (if it can withstand that much ![]() |
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#91 | |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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![]() Quote:
Most PSU problems I've seen are stuffed transistors or secondary-side recitifers or leaking capacitors. Hardly ever see a problem with the primary side components. (unless caused by a fool who flipped the voltage switch or a power surge etc) |
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#92 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
City & State: ----
My Country: Sweden
Line Voltage: 230v 50Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 5,416
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![]() Agent24; it is difficult to get airflow down to the diodes
A bridge rectifier is high up so it gets some airflow, plus if the manufacturer wants he can install a heatsink on it aswell The diode treatment is the cheapo way out, cheaper than using a bridge rectifier... But it's a more sensible cost savings approach than removing all primary side filtering components like some manufacturers do!
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"The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it." |
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#93 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Illinois
Posts: 432
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![]() I started messing with this one, harvesting parts from other busted PSUs and such. I have a question about the transformer behind YC1 & YC2. What would one call that piece in order to find a similar unit on Digikey? I pulled on off another PSU, but unfortunately it was a little too big (pins didn't line up with the holes). And what kind of capacitors should I be looking for to populate YC1-YC4?
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#94 |
I see dead caps
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Hiding inside a plated-through hole
My Country: New Zealand
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 4,700
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![]() I think it's a line filter rather than a transformer.
If the holes don't line up exactly you can probably enlarge them or drill new ones. The pads should be large enough to allow for this. |
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#95 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2009
City & State: Indiana
My Country: USA
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 330
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![]() On Digikey, look under "Common Mode Chokes" in the "Filters" category. There's a couple thousand to choose from.
For the Y capacitors, search for "Y1" or "Y2", and then look in the Ceramic or Film Capacitor categories. Most important thing to worry about here is the lead spacing too. |
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#96 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
City & State: Illinois
Posts: 432
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![]() I am in the ballpark for the coil. I found ones that are somewhat similar looking. But for ~$5, I might look around for some more old PSUs. I guess I can see why they would leave them off to increase the bottom line.
Here is one that I am thinking might work: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ame=PLK1324-ND As for the capacitors there are about 32 different choices that fall under the category 250V/High Voltage/Safety. The pF rating goes from 15pF to 4700pF. Is there any value that I should shoot for here? |
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#97 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,147
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![]() Quote:
As for the choke - you're probably better off finding some old junk PSUs like you said. They'll likely have the safety X/Y caps too. |
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#98 |
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 13
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![]() Anyone want to see the guts of these?
![]() And maybe a Tagan ITZ 700W (1 of 4 that I'm willing to open, seen in blue box on left side of picture) and a monster DPS-750 (220v) out of an 8-way PIII Xeon server for dessert! |
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#99 |
Send Doge Memes
Join Date: Aug 2010
City & State: Napa, CA.
My Country: USA
I'm a: Forum Junkie
Posts: 6,418
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![]() holy cow uve got lotsa psus
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#100 |
Black Sheep
Join Date: Nov 2008
City & State: Madison, IN
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 16,675
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![]() only the bad ones, this is not build quality pictorial, this is the hall of shame. server power supplies that are not blown up do not count (they are very nice actually)
in pic #1, i'd try the black one and column 1 2nd from the top. the latter has thin wire (it has to be gutless!) and the black one looks like a gamer wannabe unit... i see a hipro built one, it has a blue "void if broken" sticker, those are very well built. |
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