Has anyone had issues with Rayovac Alkaline batteries leaking

[stj]

you can use NiMH on xbox controllers - thats what is in the rechargeable packs.

[sam_sam_sam]

Originally Posted by stj

you can use NiMH on xbox controllers - thats what is in the rechargeable packs.

Yes I know but back then when he play all the time the batteries would go dead quickly and he complained about it so I looked for something different for him to try and he had like the first set of them I had bought but he did not like second set that I had bought for him he complained about the fact that he had put them on charge all time

[eccerr0r]

I had some NiZn batteries and they quickly died, they were not balanced.

Not sure about those li-ion cells with internal buck/boost circuitry...

I would think the leak-in-blister pack is rare with good quality cells and you should simply remove the cells if you're not using the device. If you're using the device frequently, promptly replace the cells when dead, or use good rechargeable cells if you're draining them down fast...

Perhaps another method is add in a leak wick that would wick away any leakage from the contacts to minimize damage. Still dicey but probably helps a little.

[momaka]

In my experience, I don't think this battery leakage problem is unique to Rayovac or any other brand anymore. I find pretty much all alkaline battery brands nowadays to leak like crazy for whatever reason. Not sure what's changed, but 10 years ago, it was just Duracell that started doing this first... and subsequently Ikea and Costo Kirkland alkalines a little later. Related? -Possibly. In any case, at least the other brands were generally OK. But now - it seems every brand is affected.

For this reason, I have started to avoid alkaline batteries whenever possible.
For smoke detectors, remote controllers, and other applications with low drain, I've rediscovered / switched back to the good old Carbon Zinc ("Heavy Duty" / "Super Heavy Duty") chemistry. And from those, Panasonic and Toshiba are still the best, IMO - no leaks, and they will last for years and years without issue. On that note, the original C-Zn Panasonic batteries that came with my parents' DVD/home theater system are close to 15 years old now! Not only have they not leaked, but they are still holding up and used in the remote for that DVD player. (And yes, that DVD/home theater does see a lot of use, because it's used every time the TV is On.)

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

Start using low self discharge nimh cells (AA and AAA) in your expensive equipment. Sanyo/Panasonic Eneloops are the gold standard, but it's rumored that Ikea Ladda Made in Japan nimh are made in the same factory and specs as Eneloops, but are much cheaper.

+1

My sister switched to Ikea LADDA rechargeable batteries for her son's toys and... going 4-6 years now without any issues. Some of the toys he doesn't use very often, so it's a good thing these LADDA batteries have low self-discharge. On the other hand, they can also provide a high current easily when it's needed. So they are pretty good quality.

Originally Posted by stj

i have had fucking duracell's leak while still sealed in the bubble-pack!!
i wouldnt guarantee them for 10 months!

And you're right about that!

My mother bought an 8-pack of the Duraleaks (AAA "Optimum") because she needed one for an old MP3 player that she uses very infrequently. Luckily, I remembered to check on her MP3 player after I saw the packet. The single Duraleak inside it was just starting to form droplets on the edges of its bottom, though they hadn't quite reached the battery terminal springs of the MP3 player. And this was after not even 6 months of storage (!) after the very occasional use that the MP3 player saw. I checked the rest of the AAA's in that pack, and another one was starting to have droplet formations.

So I pulled the two AAA's with the droplets and set them aside. But I didn't throw them away - I'll be damned if Duraleak can make a fool of me like this. Instead, I wiped the moisture from these two cells and started using them in my headphones (need 1x AAA battery for NC), since I use those almost daily and typically for several hours. Of course, I'd remove the Duraleak after each session. But because of my high usage, I'll drain a regular AAA alkaline with these headphones in about 3-4 weeks max. This allowed me to get the first Duraleak completely used up before it totally pissed its pants. I'm now onto the 2nd leaking one... and waiting for it to die any day now. After this, I'll be back to my regular NiMH rechargeables... unless there are more Duraleaks from that 8-pack that need draining (I suspect there will be.)

Originally Posted by stj

you buy cheap $ store alk's because anything beats durasell and keep an eye on them.

Sad but true, unfortunately.
The "Rocket" alkaline batteries that came in my parents' Samsung TV's remote just started leaking last year - that is a good 9 or so years after the TV was purchased. You will not find a modern Duracell battery last that long, or even a small fraction of that time. The only Duracell alkaline batteries that I have that haven't leaked yet are really old stuff from the early 2000's. I don't know what Duracell did differently back then, but their batteries actually lasted damn well and rarely ever leaked. But now... half a year on the shelf, tops, before they start going. Same goes for Ikea and Costco's Kirkland brand alkaline batteries.

On that note, I'm curious to try Harbor Freight's alkaline batteries. Unfortunately, I don't use batteries that often anymore. So it's rare when I have to purchase any... and that's usually 9V ones for the smoke detectors inside the house (whose old batteries I transfer to use in my cheap multimeters afterwards.)

[stj]

there is a huge europe-wide chain called "Lidl"
do you have them in the u.s.??

they have the best alks - proven in tests.

[momaka]

Originally Posted by stj

there is a huge europe-wide chain called "Lidl"
do you have them in the u.s.??

Yeah, they just recently started popping up on the East Coast here... or at least where I am. In fact, one just opened this summer only a few miles away from me. So thanks for the tip, I'll check out their alkaline batts if I need any (probably some 9V soon for a few smoke detectors - there is always at least one that starts beeping on me right around fall-winter time when the temperatures start dropping.)

Otherwise... I've been to Lidl before. They aren't great when it comes to fresh fruit and vegetables, but there are other stores for that stuff. On the other hand, Lidl does have some items (snacks, meat, baking stuff, and condiments) that no other store can beat in price. Heck, the first one that opened here was right next to a Wallmart. Just imagine the nerve to do that.

[lti]

Originally Posted by momaka

For this reason, I have started to avoid alkaline batteries whenever possible.
For smoke detectors, remote controllers, and other applications with low drain, I've rediscovered / switched back to the good old Carbon Zinc ("Heavy Duty" / "Super Heavy Duty") chemistry. And from those, Panasonic and Toshiba are still the best, IMO - no leaks, and they will last for years and years without issue. On that note, the original C-Zn Panasonic batteries that came with my parents' DVD/home theater system are close to 15 years old now! Not only have they not leaked, but they are still holding up and used in the remote for that DVD player. (And yes, that DVD/home theater does see a lot of use, because it's used every time the TV is On.)

I still have some old Walgreens "heavy duty" batteries that are close to 10 years old.

Originally Posted by momaka

Duraleaks (AAA "Optimum")

Those are the ones I mentioned that came in a cardboard box that hid the leaks. I don't remember all of the battery names.

Originally Posted by momaka

9V ones for the smoke detectors inside the house (whose old batteries I transfer to use in my cheap multimeters afterwards.)

I do that too, except I have a huge pile now.

[eccerr0r]

Anyone had experience with Duracell's Procell (all black duracell instead of copper top), are these any better?

I have a feeling that a lot of the non blister pack Duracell could be fakes. Not sure, for those people living in the USA there's a store "Big Lots" that I have a suspicion that they sell fake or self-packaged Duracells to get a better price (which isn't that much better)... I haven't seen any leaking on the shelf but these seem to all be in that paperboard under container and shrink wrapped on top. Not sure if these are fake or not but very strange packaging IMHO.

IMHO those carbon zinc batteries, they tend to "leak" into the air (as in they dry up instead of leaking liquid into your $EXPENSIVE$EQUIPMENT)... little/no equipment damage, but does damage the pocket book if you don't watch how much you pay. Plus their ESR is pitiful.

[stj]

procell were marketed in europe for company use to deter theft by workers.
i doubt they are different internally.

[eccerr0r]

Theoretically they are identical.
Question is if they are better because they probably aren't counterfeit!

[CapLeaker]

Originally Posted by stj

those batteries, big clive did a teardown of the Jugee branded ones - very interesting products!

there are also NiZN batteries - i think thats the chemicals anyway - they run at 1.5v but not many chargers support them.

I thought these NiZN batteries are like 1.7 or even 1.8V?

[sam_sam_sam]

Yes they are at the 1.7 to 1.8 when new and as they age the voltage becomes lower when they reach about 1.5 volts they are pretty worn out and will not last long on a charge

[stj]

so if you pair them with NiMH you get 3v?

[eccerr0r]

I tried a couple and they are fragile. Powergenix NiZn were terrible in cycle life, I don't think I even got 10 cycles before they dropped dead, even with their own charger.

Originally Posted by stj

so if you pair them with NiMH you get 3v?

Yeah, maybe 5 with doing this...

[CapLeaker]

That may be fatal for something that does take 10 batteries. Lol

[stj]

that would be a textbook case for 18650's and a boost convertor

[eccerr0r]

Now that BMS boards are standard practice for Li-ion, why not have BMS for NiZn...

[stj]

it's my understanding that nizn are only a few hundred mA, and you dont charge them in packs anyway - atleast not with any retail charger

[eccerr0r]

Yeah the AA 14500 NiZn's I had were only like 900mAh. Total crap. They need to be in SMPS buck/boost with BMS. At 1.5Wh it's not way too bad though 2.4Wh NiMH is typical...

The charger ("official") I had could individually charge. So charging isn't the problem...

[PeteS in CA]

Had a bunch of leaking Duracells a couple of years ago, but not recently, touch wood.