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#1721 | |||||
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 122.5VAC 59.9Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 673
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![]() I may actually try putting slightly beefier parts on the secondary and put this PSU into some junker PC that I plan on throwing together out of spare parts (just so I have something at my workbench for looking stuff up while working), and then I can see how many years, or (realistically speaking) months or weeks this thing lasts before giving up the ghost. Though, I won't be wasting any of my 'good' parts on this.
Yeah, that was more or less my exact reaction when I saw that they used a 30A part for a rail that is rated for 2.5A max, but as you mentioned, the part could be a QC reject that Leadman desperately wanted to reuse. I do plan on trying to test the side that had its leg cut off, to see if that side really is defective. Quote:
![]() But seriously, I do appreciate you going out of your way to explain that to me, as i'm pretty much fully self-taught when it comes to electronics like this, so this kind of info is the type of stuff i may normally not find online, at least not easily, so thank you. Quote:
Speaking of Savers, I actually picked up a couple PC PSUs from a local Savers recently, one of them needs a bit of work though (a full recap of the secondary). Oh, and I also got a good chuckle or two out of the design of this PSU, which makes it slightly more worth it to me. Quote:
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Last edited by RukyCon; 03-15-2022 at 03:03 AM.. |
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#1722 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2011
City & State: Harrisburg, PA
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
Posts: 2,216
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![]() Quote:
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#1723 |
SNES-powered
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Bacau
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,471
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![]() I doubt Topower had anything to do with the label, if at all.
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Main rig: Gigabyte B75M-D3H Core i5-3470 3.60GHz Gigabyte Geforce GTX650 1GB GDDR5 16GB DDR3-1600 Samsung SH-224AB DVD-RW FSP Bluestorm II 500W (recapped) 120GB ADATA + 2x Seagate Barracuda ES.2 ST31000340NS 1TB Delux MG760 case |
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#1724 |
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 122.5VAC 59.9Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 673
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![]() So here is a power supply that i found in the trash, the PSU appears to be rather old judging by the external switch and minimal output leads.
Label: IMG_20220609_222204[1].jpg Looking at the label, we don't really get much info about the PSU, other than its a 230w unit, and that i shouldn't be taking it apart in five different languages, but that ain't gunna stop me cuz i can't read most of them. ![]() Anyway, here is the forbidden insides (AKA, the board overview): IMG_20220609_221715[1].jpg IMG_20220609_221704[2].jpg Well, there isn't a lot to see in here, and TBH, i was kind of suprised when i saw how empty it was inside, mainly because this PSU had a bit of weight to it, but as it would turn out, most of that was in the (suprisingly decent) case this board was placed in. Also, we finally find a proper name and model to go to this unit, Moretec. Now i couldn't find much about them, but the few things i did find were supringly decent, so it's a shame that they stooped so low for this unit, but maybe it could be salvaged. Primary side: IMG_20220609_221724[1].jpg So in terms of input filtering, it has no input filtering, not even the usual fake Y-class capacitors, we do however, have an NTC themistor and a fuse, a rather cheap looking fuse, but a fuse none the less. The bride rectifier is made up of 4 1n4007 diodes, i want you to look at how tiny and under-rated they are, i mean, they're 1 amp parts, and if this is a 240w PSU, then they would possibly be seeing up to twice their rated current under full load (at 120V, assuming 100% PSU effenicy, which is highly unlikely to be the case), and even at something like 75% load, they'd still be getting overloaded. Now the main capacitors are a pair of Rubycon YKs, rated 220uf, 200v, in which they test at 215uf and 225uf respectivly. They appear to be real Rubycons, which would probably make them some of the best quality parts in this PSU. The main switchers are a pair of (2S)C2810s in a standard dual-foward configeration. The main transformer is 33mm wide by about 29mm tall. Secondary side: IMG_20220609_221733[1].jpg The filtering for each rail is a follows: 12v: 2x PR3002 (100v, 3A) fast recovery diodes (mounted in a classic diode bracket configeration), Pi Coil (16~18 AWG, 20 turns, 5mm core), Luxon SM 1000uf, 16v capacitor. 5V: S10C40C (10A 40V) schottky rectifier, PI coil (12 AWG, 8 turns, 5mm core), 2x Capxon KM 1000uf 10v capacitors locaded on either side of the coil. -12V: 3x PR152? (obstructed part number)(1.5A) fast recovery diodes, Capxon KM 470uf 16v capacitor -5V: 2x PR152? fast recovery diodes, Capxon KM 470uf 16v. The controller chip is a (TL)494CN, beyond that there,s not much else to note. The Fan: IMG_20220609_221749[1].jpg Just an older Yate Loon fan, still spins really well. I'm not really sure what to do with this thing, maybe it might be worth beefing up a tad bit for projects and such, but i don't know. |
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#1725 |
SNES-powered
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Bacau
My Country: Romania
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,471
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![]() I would beef it up a bit and keep it should you ever find the desire to build an retro AT machine.
Maybe a personal preference but I would rather put 2-4 hours of work in beefing up an AT unit (which I did to an Essun 200W AT PSU) than having to fiddle with an adapter and an ATX PSU. |
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#1726 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: San Jose, CA
My Country: USA, Unsure of Planet
Line Voltage: 120VAC, 60Hz & 115VAC, 400Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 3,384
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![]() The model number suggests it's a 200W/150W power supply (or maybe the PCB is used for 150W and 200W models). Anyway, the 220uF input caps are about right for 150W. Based on possible clues in the S/N and numbers on the magnetics, I'm going to guess the power supply is 1996 vintage.
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