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    #21
    Re: My way to recap

    The instructions by Willawake include pushing the pick from the front side of the board.
    that is correct, I do it that way. only recently i realised that TC works solely at the back of the board. faq is to be updated once i try that method.
    capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

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      #22
      Re: My way to recap

      I "picked" a PSU PCB from the backside soley yesterday, my first try with a needle... it worked fine... The needle I used was so thick that I could not run it through the board, but it still made the hole clean, this might be good because this should make it close to impossible to push out a vias hole on a mainboard... If it makes the hole clean now that is...
      "The one who says it cannot be done should never interrupt the one who is doing it."

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        #23
        Re: My way to recap

        Needle/pick seems to use a lot of heat. I use a 40w iron and it still takes 5-8 sec to melt solder so as not to push needle. Do I need a bigger iron or is this typical?

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          #24
          Re: My way to recap

          Here is my method, please tell me why I shouldn't do this, it has worked fine in the past. I just heat up both legs of the cap and pull it out when it gets hot enough. Then insert one leg at a time by reheating the solder that is in the holes already. It is fast and easy, and has worked every time.

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            #25
            Re: My way to recap

            Some drawbacks:

            1. The cap will be subjected to extra heat, reducing its lifetime.
            2. The cap leads will not be aligned perfectly in the holes.
            3. There's likely to be some stress on the walls of the hole, which could cause shearing damage.
            4. In densely routed areas, adjacent tracks could short or get stripped by the iron due to the relatively long contact duration.

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              #26
              Re: My way to recap

              i was playing with methods today and this seems to work nice. i think it is important to heat the holes for less time possible so this is to avoid what can turn into a long time heating a stubborn hole. i think the solder is more stubborn with the more recent boards. whether this is the lead free solder, i dont know. its ugly stuff though.

              for removing the caps the alternate lead heating method works best. most important to add solder to each hole before removing the cap and watch that you are not dumping solder on top of the hole but heating the existing solder and mixing the new into it. this should be a very quick move once you do it many times.

              for cleaning the holes i was using a needle attached to an electrical block with 2 screws. I found a needle which was a tiny bit bigger than the lead of a panasonic cap. i am also using a soldering iron with a standard chisel tip. what i wanted to avoid was when you are using a tip which is not very small it is possible to heat the motherboard around the hole more than the hole. this is bad.

              so i put the board on the table and i add solder to the hole on the back of the board while heating the hole with the corner of the iron. Then I touch the corner of the iron to the middle of the hole for a second.

              I do the same on the front of the board.

              then i turn the board over and heat the hole with the corner of the iron. i get the needle ready and after a few seconds i take the iron off the hole and immediately put the needle into the hole.

              what will happen is that the needle will either go all the way through the hole or get stuck half way. If it gets stuck, i put the board between my knees and go to the front of the board. At the front of the board I heat the hole and wiggle the needle until it is coming through. once it is coming through i heat the needle with the iron until it comes through good and then stop heating.

              At that point i will gently wiggle the needle and see if i can pull it back gently. if i cant i will heat it a bit wiggle and pull it back to not cause too much stress.

              if the needle is stuck half way the first time i put it in, it is possible to put the biggest side of the iron against the needle at the rear of the board (not against the hole) and wiggle and try to get it through. it just seems to be easier to go to the front of the board and work there which gets it through quicker.

              this works quite nice. the only problem is that you need a steady careful hand when working at the front of the board in case you burn something accidentaly.
              capacitor lab yachtmati techmati

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