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#1 |
New Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
City & State: Portland Oregon
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![]() I have this board which converts 19V to PC Voltages:
![]() The green and purple capacitors have the same Voltage, capacitance, and temperature ratings. The purple caps are smaller than the blue-green (more greenish in person). ![]() ![]() The blue-green caps are used on the 12V section: ![]() I can't find anything online about these capacitors. Is there any reason the 12V section would be using different capacitors, when the primary specs are identical? Just need to see if I can use the Nichicon 1000uF 25V VZ or Nichicon 1500uF 16V HN caps that I have here for them all, or if I need to be more selective for the 12V section. Last edited by Masejoer; 02-01-2020 at 01:52 PM.. |
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#2 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
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Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
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![]() I can see that the purple one is the FZ series, but I cannot see what the others are in the pictures.
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Never stop learning Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#3 | |
New Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
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![]() Quote:
I went and replaced all the caps with my Nichicons and the system is working again. I didn't differentiate between the two different 1000uF. Still curious what the difference could be though, being that the only difference is that the blue-green ones were on the 12v circuit. |
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#4 |
Great Sage 齊天大聖
Join Date: Dec 2009
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![]() different ripple current handling, and/or lifespan.
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#5 | |
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![]() Quote:
The reason is no more nor less than the art of cost cutting. |
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#6 |
New Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
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![]() Thanks - I will continue to run it as-repaired with my Nichicons. My NAS has been down since October, relying only on manual backups since then. The automated full backup started this morning is running great.
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#7 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
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![]() The power supply is a over-rated, those buck output capacitors are all undersized for the PCB ratings "5A" or "8A". I would be stuffing in the largest value parts I could fit, like 2,200uF each or polymer types.
Then there's a MC34063 there that made me chuckle. I'm saying the design is a bit wonky. I have seen each capacitor chosen because that's what they have laying around, got a good deal on, or cost-optimized down to the penny- also considering product lifetime. One giveaway is the 5V and 3.3V outputs are using 16V parts, a waste of space. |
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#8 | |
New Member
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![]() Quote:
The board sits just under the backplane, so cap height is an issue in a couple spots. 16V 1500uF would fit in there. |
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#9 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 10,860
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![]() Quote:
Thus, I suggest to use the Nichicon HN 16V 1500 uF caps, provided they weren't manufactured between 2001 and 2004 (they will have a date code that reads similar to "Hxxyy", where xx indicates the year, and yy the week or production - so for example, H0531 means made in the 31st week of 2005). As for the VZ, those are general purpose 105C caps and so may not last too long on that buck converter circuit too long. |
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#10 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Maritimes
My Country: Canada
Line Voltage: 250V Split-phased, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
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![]() Sacon? Rebadged GSC, garbage caps. Glad the PSU is working after the repair.
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#11 |
Comrade Glimmer
Join Date: Aug 2007
City & State: tehas
My Country: US
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
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![]() it's not voltages within PC range for ripple/esr, it's for a sata II backplane (which sata does have 3.3/5/12)
edit: scratch that, I got my model numbers confused on this PDF http://www.chenbro.com/en-global/Dow...e/download/219 but that uses an internal psu so that can 't be your product
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Cap Datasheet Depot: http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/ ^If you have datasheets not listed PM me Last edited by Uranium-235; 02-22-2020 at 08:58 AM.. Reason: I can't think straight this morning cause i'm sick |
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#12 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
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Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
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![]() Quote:
Sacon is not actually re-badged GSC. It's the same company that makes them. They just changed names several times, because their caps are THAT BAD. i.e. GSC = Evercon = Sacon And I think their last name or at least a close associate was Elcon. All garbage caps, though. Just recap these as soon as you see them. Here are some Sacon FZ I pulled from a graphics card a while back: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1499527964 https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1499527964 ^ Yes - once they blow, they tend to dry themselves up quickly and only start showing picoFarads (pF) of capacity. If the circuit they are in can't handle it, you can get destroyed hardware. I obtained two EVGA GeForce 7600 PCI-E cards that was some years back. Miraculously, XFX cards seem to have better VRM design, because they almost never get destroyed from these crappy caps. I saved a good number of XFX GeForce 8600 and GeForce 6800 XT AGP cards now, among others. Also, be careful - sometimes, those Sacon FZ caps will imitate polymers by not stamping vents on their cans: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37146l= ^ Unsurprisingly, they still managed to go bad... and nearly launch themselves out of the board. Such garbage! |
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