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    xbox 360

    Through some google searching, I ran upon this website thankfully. I have the dreaded rrod. I'm sure that's a surprise.

    Anyway, I took it apart thinking I'd just reflow the gpu/cpu and be done with it. But, I immediately saw some other problems. 4 obviously failed caps.

    From some browsing around here, people are saying that the nichicon HZ are suitable replacements for them(rubycon mfz 2700uF/6.3v). Referencing this thread: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4931 OR, upgrade to a poly such as http://thecapking.com/plg0j182mdo1.html. Would the Nichicon LG cap work in this application?

    Also, all the other caps seem fine by looking at them. But, since I'm in there, I could replace some others, if they are prone to failing too.

    I do plan on cutting out the rear grill to improve airflow, and fabricating a small aluminum shroud to pull air through the gpu sink as well. I hope to not buy an xbox 1 anytime soon, so I'm hoping this one lasts. I can justify spending a few more bucks on poly caps if you guys think it's worth it.

    So I guess the main question is, can I use the Nichicon LG caps here, or should I stick with electollytic caps like the Nichicon HZ?

    Disclaimer: I know next to nothing about electronics so forgive me for any glaring errors. I have soldered a bit, and played around with pcs before, but that's about the extent of it.

    Thanks
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: xbox 360

    I think the biggest problem you will run into is finding a powerful enough iron to solder/desolder the caps on these boards. I'm not even sure if a regular iron would work here... maybe if the board is pre-heated to about 100C and if the iron is rated for at least 60W.
    All I know is, even the cheaper Hakko 936 clone temperature-controlled soldering stations will struggle to melt the solder on the caps of these boards.
    If you haven't replaced caps on a computer motherboard before, I would suggest you find a junk one to practice on first. The Xbox 360s are tough, though not impossible. Also grab some liquid or paste flux (but NOT plumber's flux! - that stuff is way too acidic and will eat away the copper traces).

    That aside, those Nichicon LG should be fine. However, you do have a much bigger choice here. Pretty much any polymer rated at 820uF or more and 4V or more should be okay. And yes, you can use Nichicon HZ as well. In fact, many Xbox 360s with 10mm diameter caps have 6.3V 2200uF Nichicon HZ on them.
    Last edited by momaka; 02-07-2014, 06:18 PM.

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      #3
      Re: xbox 360

      Thanks again.

      Browsing through those threads on here about the 360, I saw some people stating I should not put 4v caps in unless I'm sure they won't see more than that. I don't have a measurement capable of gauging that so wouldn't that be a risk?

      The extent of my soldering experience with circuit boards is heavily modding a DS-1 guitar pedal. But I've probably got a junk mobo around here somewhere to play with.

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        #4
        Re: xbox 360

        Originally posted by 3v0 View Post
        Browsing through those threads on here about the 360, I saw some people stating I should not put 4v caps in unless I'm sure they won't see more than that.
        If it's a cap rated for 16V, you definitely DO NOT want to put one rated for 4V. However, for those 6.3V 2700uF Rubycon MFZs, you CAN use 4V caps. In fact, have a closer look at those yellow caps that are on the same row as the blown caps - those are Fujitsu FP caps rated at 4V and 820uF. These two, along with the row of blown Rubycon MFZ next to them are all for the GPU core voltage. IIRC, they don't really see more than 1.2 or 1.4V, if even that much. So theoretically, you could go as low as 2.5V polymers - though I wouldn't recommend you do as I haven't tried that experiment myself yet (and I have tried quite a few things with these boards).

        Originally posted by 3v0 View Post
        The extent of my soldering experience with circuit boards is heavily modding a DS-1 guitar pedal. But I've probably got a junk mobo around here somewhere to play with.
        Well, the good thing is, these Xbox boards are also hard to damage with an iron - at least the pads on the capacitors that are connected to the big copper lanes. So you can try desoldering the caps. If it doesn't work, don't get frustrated. Just get a bigger iron and pre-heat the board a little with a hair dryer or something similar before attempting to work on it.
        Last edited by momaka; 02-08-2014, 12:52 AM.

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          #5
          Re: xbox 360

          Good to know. I'm really up for suggestions on what to put in there if the LGs aren't the best. Like I said, I can splurge a little on caps if it will buy me more time with the console.
          What would you put in there?

          And I have a heat gun that I could preheat with if necessary. Is flux used to desolder? Or just when soldering?

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            #6
            Re: xbox 360

            Originally posted by 3v0 View Post
            What would you put in there?
            Anything that works, really. If I knew these Xboxes didn't have GPU and BGA problems, I'd spend the money on polymers and make it last a lifetime. But unfortunately MS did a crappy design on the cooling, so I'd say just go with these:
            https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=137
            or these:
            https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=149
            or these:
            https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=142
            They will all work. Many Xboxes that don't use the 6.3V 2700uF Rubycon MFZ use the 6.3V 2200uF Nichicon HZs instead.

            Then there are also these polymers on Mouser (if you really wanted to do polymer):
            http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...wofFnXbe95c%3d
            http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...l7HipYB0PyY%3d
            http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...2bbFEHdGKRc%3d

            The Nichicon LGs are fine too. Digikey probably has a good selection too... Just pick one and go with it. The shipping prices are similar everywhere more or less. If you feel like giving some support to the site, go with the ones in the badcaps link above.

            Originally posted by 3v0 View Post
            And I have a heat gun that I could preheat with if necessary.
            That will work.

            Originally posted by 3v0 View Post
            Is flux used to desolder? Or just when soldering?
            Both. Although it's not necessary for desoldering, you will find that it helps A LOT. IMO, it's almost like day and night difference so I always use it.

            The way I desolder caps from these boards is as follows:
            First I add flux to all of the capacitor pads.
            If using my 70W temperature-controlled station, I usually just put a big blob of solder on the tip and proceed to remove the caps using the "walk" method (more on that in a bit)
            If using a crappier soldering station, I preheat the board (heat gun or hold above electric stove top on low-medium heat for a few minutes). I then add a solder blob on the iron's tip and proceed to remove the caps.

            Description of cap removal using "walk" method can be found here:
            https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...7&postcount=23

            You can put the new caps back the same way too. But to do that, you must pre-cut their leads to proper length to make it easier to put them in. Before butting in the cap, though, I usually use a cork board tack/pin to partially clear the solder holes (they don't need to be cleared all the way through - but if you can, go for it). Then place the cap and walk it in.

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              #7
              Re: xbox 360

              Thanks a TON for all of your help.

              I've never heard of the "walk" method but the funny thing is I've done that before when I was working on the guitar pedal. It worked beautifully.

              When I took the console apart and saw the caps, I just kind of laughed. I'm looking at the failed components and notice they are directly IN the airflow and inch away from the cpu. How dumb do you have to be to design that? Could have at least put an air dam there if the caps had to be in that spot. I digress.

              Having said that, I think I might go poly just for the added protection. But who knows what I'll do? I certainly don't.

              Thanks again.

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