Power supply build quality pictorial. part 2

[ReeceyBurger123]

This is the atrix 650t, 650w rated psu of course it isn't 650w I know their game with this one make the user think that the psu is good by its looks and put them off the quality of the internal psu board, it can do around 400w on a good day. It has a clear Polly acrylic case with two 80mm led fans that can be controlled by the potentiometer at the back, its of an ok quality I recapped it due it having sancon outputs causing bad ripple, Im sure I will find some use for it in a low end rig some day.
Specifications listed:
2* 13009 primary transistors
5vsb transistor 5h01605r with a 1000uf rubycon and a 330uf sc capacitors for the filtering
Passive pfc
Bridge rectifier kbu 804g
output rectifiers:
3.3v sbl3040pt
5v sbl3040pt
12v sf2004pt
Output capacitors:
3.3v 1*2200uf 16v ucc kze 1*3300uf 10v samxon rs
5v 1*2200uf 16v ucc kze 1*3300uf 10v samxon rs
12v 1* 3300uf 16v samxon rs
-12v 1000uf rubycon yxg
-5v 1000uf rubycon yxg
1000uf 200v sancon primary units
Let me know what you think.

[Behemot]

It should be good for 500+ watts as long as you replace the +12V rectifier with some 30A one and if there is spot on the other side of the heatsink, with two in parallel. Than you should be able to draw those 32 A from the rail. It may require some load on +3,3/+5 V, it is still +5 V heavier topology.

[ReeceyBurger123]

Originally Posted by Behemot

It should be good for 500+ watts as long as you replace the +12V rectifier with some 30A one and if there is spot on the other side of the heatsink, with two in parallel. Than you should be able to draw those 32 A from the rail. It may require some load on +3,3/+5 V, it is still +5 V heavier topology.

Thanks for the reply, what rectifier would you recommend for the +12v I can add another 3040pt for the +5v

[Behemot]

Apart from 30+ A, than 60 V or more. I would not recommend adding anything to +5 V, it will be high enough already when you selectively load the +12 V rail.

[370forlife]

Old YoungYear design. The primary switchers will probably blow before anything else at around 400W.

[RJARRRPCGP]

Is that a fake PFC? Are those just sheets of metal?

[ReeceyBurger123]

Originally Posted by Behemot

Apart from 30+ A, than 60 V or more. I would not recommend adding anything to +5 V, it will be high enough already when you selectively load the +12 V rail.

Ok thanks, would be nice too upgrade that rectifier but as 370forlife said its an old young year those 13009's could blow after 400w should be good for a low end rig

[ReeceyBurger123]

Originally Posted by RJARRRPCGP

Is that a fake PFC? Are those just sheets of metal?

I think its all genuine, I will check it later.

[Behemot]

Originally Posted by 370forlife

Old YoungYear design. The primary switchers will probably blow before anything else at around 400W.

Why?

[Pentium4]

Originally Posted by c_hegge

I hope your friend told the guy in no uncertain terms that Deltas must never be tossed out, especially if they are still working!

That looks like a really nice PSU, though. Definitely worth saving.

Yeah, I told him that. Maybe he has more lying around

Originally Posted by ReeceyBurger123

Awesome psu why was he going to throw it out, massive components, rubycon primary and ultra precise output ratings 390w exactly great grab

Not sure what it is with people, but they're pretty wasteful in general.

Originally Posted by Stefan Payne

Well it's Delta, they probably have a ton of designs...

Anyway:
The design reminds me kinda of the GPS-400AA series I once had...

It's a good design. It probably came stock in a "higher end" OEM system.

Originally Posted by kaboom

Hey, that looks like an NP160(?) I recapped a few years ago. That one didn't have APFC, but was similar. The heavy, staked secondary heatsink gave it away!


I do remember the glue being easier to remove than in the Bestecs.

Nice Yeah, the glue was much easier to remove than in Bestec's. Still a pain though, because as it breaks apart it gets everywhere!

Originally Posted by ReeceyBurger123

This psu I brought off a boot sale for 99p, its a fsp250 60hen oem is spi this psu wouldn't power on when I first tried it this was due to two bloated capxon capacitors replaced with samxon Gf just to test the psu and make sure that it works before I install good caps, I replaced the main iec connector as the original had rusted and corroded, seems good for 250w maybe more ?

Let me know what you think.

I wouldn't do much more than 250W on it. Those heatsinks are pretty bad even for 250W, I bet it gets really hot around 200W. However in these older FSP's with the fan controller, the fan does spin at a decent RPM even when cold. It's a decent unit, and at least it has a good input filter.

Originally Posted by ReeceyBurger123

This is the atrix 650t, 650w rated psu of course it isn't 650w I know their game with this one make the user think that the psu is good by its looks and put them off the quality of the internal psu board, it can do around 400w on a good day. It has a clear Polly acrylic case with two 80mm led fans that can be controlled by the potentiometer at the back, its of an ok quality I recapped it due it having sancon outputs causing bad ripple, Im sure I will find some use for it in a low end rig some day.

Let me know what you think.

I like that unit.

Originally Posted by Behemot

Apart from 30+ A, than 60 V or more. I would not recommend adding anything to +5 V, it will be high enough already when you selectively load the +12 V rail.

What Behemot means by this is that you need a rectifier with at least 60V peak reverse voltage. The one you have in mind most likely only has 40V. Interestingly enough, I have an Atrix power supply sitting on my bench (But it's made by Unitek Technologies) and the 12V rectifier on that PSU only has 45V peak reverse voltage. I'd still use one rated for 60V or more on that one, as that's what they used originally. As it is, that unit could already output quite a bit of 12V power for a decent system. Nice recap job!

Originally Posted by RJARRRPCGP

Is that a fake PFC? Are those just sheets of metal?

It's probably fake. My Atrix (Although a different OEM) Had a very similar looking PPFC inductor with a loop-back wire, and very light sheet metal.

Originally Posted by ReeceyBurger123

Ok thanks, would be nice too upgrade that rectifier but as 370forlife said its an old young year those 13009's could blow after 400w should be good for a low end rig

It could do more than 400W safely if you have some 2SC3320's lying around.

[ReeceyBurger123]

Originally Posted by Pentium4

Yeah, I told him that. Maybe he has more lying around

Not sure what it is with people, but they're pretty wasteful in general.

It's a good design. It probably came stock in a "higher end" OEM system.

Nice Yeah, the glue was much easier to remove than in Bestec's. Still a pain though, because as it breaks apart it gets everywhere!

I wouldn't do much more than 250W on it. Those heatsinks are pretty bad even for 250W, I bet it gets really hot around 200W. However in these older FSP's with the fan controller, the fan does spin at a decent RPM even when cold. It's a decent unit, and at least it has a good input filter.

I like that unit.

What Behemot means by this is that you need a rectifier with at least 60V peak reverse voltage. The one you have in mind most likely only has 40V. Interestingly enough, I have an Atrix power supply sitting on my bench (But it's made by Unitek Technologies) and the 12V rectifier on that PSU only has 45V peak reverse voltage. I'd still use one rated for 60V or more on that one, as that's what they used originally. As it is, that unit could already output quite a bit of 12V power for a decent system. Nice recap job!

It's probably fake. My Atrix (Although a different OEM) Had a very similar looking PPFC inductor with a loop-back wire, and very light sheet metal.

It could do more than 400W safely if you have some 2SC3320's lying around.

Thanks for the reply, I will look into upgrading the atrix mainly to experiment and test will be a fun project, the fsp I will take to work and use the load tester we have there I will try a 200w then 250w load and run for a while and see how hot the output gets then if its all ok I will push it two 300w, I will also be recapping it when the new primary capacitor arrive some time with in this month.

[ReeceyBurger123]

Well bad cappers you predicted correctley that pfc coil is fake, I tested it with my meter and got 1ohm then ripped off some tape and card and lone behold the wires are just jumpered.

[ReeceyBurger123]

Here you have it the fake pfc coil such a shame as things were looking up for this psu, I have no idea why they even added this because it barley adds any weight to the psu I guess its just there to fool the user and fill in that corner gap, apart form that all it consists of is small aluminium sheets, plastic and a wire tapped to it.
Few images showing the fake pfc, I put it back together with electrical tape because its used as a jumper and I the psu wont start if that "pfc" point isn't jumpered, and the psu powered on.

[goodpsusearch]

Tear it apart and post some pics

[ReeceyBurger123]

Originally Posted by Behemot

Why?

Also Behemot I just realised that I use you on ebay quite a lot, I will soon be needed to stock up on samxon rs's 3300uf 16v 10mm size, got nothing to do with the psu discussion but thanks for having a great inventory of capacitors on ebay that I can trust are 100% genuine.

[Behemot]

You can use genuine coil from another ditched PSU.

I got KYA 3300/6,3 V there but next time drop me a PM, we can have a deal without eBay. Not only it's more expensive there but I have to wait for a month before they will give me the money.

[ReeceyBurger123]

Originally Posted by Behemot

You can use genuine coil from another ditched PSU.

I got KYA 3300/6,3 V there but next time drop me a PM, we can have a deal without eBay. Not only it's more expensive there but I have to wait for a month before they will give me the money.

Ok thank you, I don't have any other spare pfc coils atm but I will save a smallish one for this psu then rebuild the way it mounts.

[ReeceyBurger123]

Well im currently recapping that 250w fsp and removing the glue that has corroded everything, I took a break and opened this mystery psu that I brought off ebay for 99p, it has the top case of an ultra xconnect psu but the rest of it is a very nice 300w endermax I could tell this because I just used one in a pc build that I sold, the internal psu board is nice as it has all the needed components capable of 300w I will solder in a 24pin atx and sata connector when I recap this thing but apart from that its aesthetically pleasing and should be a good psu
Specifications listed:
2*blue led yate loon fans from a youngyear psu that are controlled by a potentiometer at the back
Active pfc
Bridge rectifier bgkbl08
I couldnt see the primary transistors
Ic controlled 5vsb
Transformers decently sized
Output rectifiers:
3.3v s40sc4m
5v s40sc4m
12v s3040pt
Output capacitors:
3.3v 1*3300uf 10v pcetur 1*2200uf 10v pce tur
5v 1*3300uf 10v pcetur 1*2200uf 10v pce tur
12v 1* 3300uf 16v pce tur
-5v 1* 1000uf 16v pce tur 1* 470uf 16v pce tur
-12v 1* 1000uf 16v pce tur 1* 470uf 16v pce tur
Primary unit 180uf 400v hitiachi hp3
Let me know what you think 300w definite ?

[Behemot]

It is strange but I don't see 300 W a problem.

[ReeceyBurger123]

Originally Posted by Behemot

It is strange but I don't see 300 W a problem.

Who ever I brought this off must of been playing around with it a lot because they have slopped what appears to be hot glue every where, swapped the case and installed fans from a youngyear unit any how good find