[FAQ] Atten 858d problem S-E (or 5-E) or stuck in 498'C.

[jmbinette]

Originally Posted by stj

not much to it if it matches either of these:

Actually it matches this schematic (resistor and cap ID are different but circuit is the same.

[redwire]

The triacs (BTA16-600B) are known to short circuit and the heater stays stuck on. Very dangerous and will burn down your house! Never leave these cheap chinese stations plugged in all the time, I pull the power cord after I am finished.
The triac does need a heatsink, so make sure you have one or it will just overheat and short.

The exact 858D schematic depends on your PCB version. Post pictures if you are not sure. This is 858D+ schematic which is similar.

[jmbinette]

Originally Posted by redwire

The triacs (BTA16-600B) are known to short circuit and the heater stays stuck on. Very dangerous and will burn down your house! Never leave these cheap chinese stations plugged in all the time, I pull the power cord after I am finished.
The triac does need a heatsink, so make sure you have one or it will just overheat and short.

The exact 858D schematic depends on your PCB version. Post pictures if you are not sure. This is 858D+ schematic which is similar.

The standby function isn't working, but that doesn't , mean the Triac is shorted.
It heats properly to whatever temperature I set and then maintains it.

[stj]

if the cpu pin is changing between 5v and 0v when you put the handle on the holder then the cpu is bad i imagine.
otherwise you need to check the reed isnt cracked etc.

[jmbinette]

Originally Posted by stj

if the cpu pin is changing between 5v and 0v when you put the handle on the holder then the cpu is bad i imagine.
otherwise you need to check the reed isnt cracked etc.

I received a second unit from amazon with the same behavior... weird !

And yes the cpu pin is changing between 0V and 5V.
Anything would prevent the cpu from triggering the input?

[stj]

only a software function - try picking it up, putting it back, then waiting.
they do have a delay.

[redwire]

Are you positive you have the right MCU pin?
The reed switch sees the magnet only when in the cradle, so it closes and I/P goes from 5V to 0V.

The chinese are trying to put hardware copy-protection in their soldering stations, as they steal firmware from others. To prevent cloning, the firmware guy will move an I/P pin so the clone pc boards no longer work. Small chance but this might be what you're seeing.

[jmbinette]

Originally Posted by redwire

Are you positive you have the right MCU pin?
The reed switch sees the magnet only when in the cradle, so it closes and I/P goes from 5V to 0V.

The chinese are trying to put hardware copy-protection in their soldering stations, as they steal firmware from others. To prevent cloning, the firmware guy will move an I/P pin so the clone pc boards no longer work. Small chance but this might be what you're seeing.

For the record, here is another PCB to add to the "clones database" ! lol

I re-tested everything and pin 18 on the IC is really switching from 5V to 0V(Wand on the holder)

[Agent24]

Originally Posted by jmbinette

I re-tested everything and pin 18 on the IC is really switching from 5V to 0V(Wand on the holder)

I think what redwire is saying, is that Pin 18 may not be the pin the firmware is actually expecting the sleep signal on. As far as the software is concerned, Pin 18 may not even exist - the software might be waiting to see that sleep signal on say, Pin 17 instead.

Or, the software might not even have a sleep function at all!

[jmbinette]

Originally Posted by Agent24

I think what redwire is saying, is that Pin 18 may not be the pin the firmware is actually expecting the sleep signal on. As far as the software is concerned, Pin 18 may not even exist - the software might be waiting to see that sleep signal on say, Pin 17 instead.

Or, the software might not even have a sleep function at all!

I tried every input pin with a jumper (both high and low) without any success of finding "the hidden input"

Seems like the device was not programmed with a standby mode but the manual says clearly that it has one ...

I bought the first unit, returned it and now this one has the same problem. I wondered if I could repair it easily but seems like I will also return this 2nd piece of Chinese cr*p !!

[redwire]

That's really weird. I wonder if it could be something enabled or disabled in settings that are stored in the EEPROM. Does it remember the temperature setting when you power it off? I'd poke around the menus if it has any.

Otherwise, the only fix would be an MCU adapter board that people have made for these.

[stj]

the replacement formware thing is interesting, but i have not tried it - my unit works fine as it is.
although i did think about changing it so i could use an oled display!

[jmbinette]

Originally Posted by redwire

That's really weird. I wonder if it could be something enabled or disabled in settings that are stored in the EEPROM. Does it remember the temperature setting when you power it off? I'd poke around the menus if it has any.

Otherwise, the only fix would be an MCU adapter board that people have made for these.

Only setting I found is pressing the 2 buttons at the same time and I can set the default power-on temp. And it gets remembered by the EEPROM.

As for the replacement firmware ... I would consider it but would rather start with a fully functional unit before

[stj]

so what - you hold both buttons and it uses the set temp as default?

i'm pretty sure mine holds the last setting until you change it again.

[jmbinette]

Originally Posted by stj

so what - you hold both buttons and it uses the set temp as default?

i'm pretty sure mine holds the last setting until you change it again.

Yes correct, I hold 2 buttons and I have like 3 seconds to set a default temperature

[sam_sam_sam]

Originally Posted by jmbinette

Yes correct, I hold 2 buttons and I have like 3 seconds to set a default temperature

I do not like this as a setup however wrote this software what were they thinking about when did this

Unless this is done keep you from changing the temperature by accident
Which might not be a bad idea this is ? mark

[azone]

...thanks to the OP for the tip... I just got an 858D that stopped working after 15 seconds when it heated up. It was also a cold solder joint. In my case it was the other style 858D with the two buttons on each side of the pot and the eight pin connector for plugging in the hand set. The lead free solder on the 8-pin connector was terrible. I resoldered and everything is fine.

This is the style I'm talking about
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYMJ7BQ...2522518&sr=8-6

[MadMaxGR]

Originally Posted by senndogg

Its only a week i have been working with my new Atten 858D+ heating station and i have experienced a problem. The station showed S-E in the digital display, the blower fan was ok but it was NOT heating. Searching the web showed that the heating element was gone, this was an error code, but it was not true. Measuring it showed 70 Ohms. Also the mosfet which drives it was not shorted. The station was also stuck in 498'C sometimes, again no heat.
Browsing again and saw some unresolved topics, there is one at a well-known polish forum. Mine is in warranty too but i was not thinking about shipping it ti China.
After close inspection at the small circuit in the gun, i could distinguish a cold joint at the soldering of the thermocouple sensor. Bingo!
Now the heating is working great again!
Thanks for reading.

First pic is the Atten 858D+. At the moment it is OK, SLP means "sleeping".
Second pic is the culprit.

@senndogg I am sorry for bring back to live your post, but I would need yur help on that.

I have bought a heating element replacement for my toasted old one and I have issue identifying the wiring. The wires on the replacement are totally different and even same colored. I can't tell also which one got to Positive and which on Negative. Can you help? I attach the pictures.

You see the replacement has 2 x black , 1 x red, 1 x Green, 1 x Blue wires.

The one black is thick, so I guess this is the main voltage, which is the grey one in my original wiring. I hope you can help me where to solder each.

[stj]

on the element, you can use a multimeter to find the 2 wires by continuity test to the coil.
the other 2 wires will be the sensor.

then check that by setting your meter to read mV and heat the sensor with a hair dryer or something and you should see the voltage rise.
that will also tell you which wire is + and which is -

[MadMaxGR]

Originally Posted by stj

on the element, you can use a multimeter to find the 2 wires by continuity test to the coil.
the other 2 wires will be the sensor.

then check that by setting your meter to read mV and heat the sensor with a hair dryer or something and you should see the voltage rise.
that will also tell you which wire is + and which is -

The wires are wrapped inside the element, is difficult to do continuity test, but I can figure out which one goes where if I can find the Positive and negative.