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HannsG HH241 problems

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    #21
    Re: HannsG HH241 problems

    Ok. Got it turn off after about a minute by having it partly put together. (Power and VGA still connected; disconnected the red/white and black/blue wires)

    1: 5.10
    2: 5.10
    3: 0
    4: 0
    5: 3.17 (?)
    6: 2.07 (?)
    7: 0
    8: 0
    9: 3.28

    Did I do something wrong?
    Last edited by Dougmeister; 09-27-2015, 08:16 PM.

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      #22
      Re: HannsG HH241 problems

      I am not sure what the red\white and black\blue wires are you speak of - and I can't see them in the pictures. Can you show a photo of them?

      Anyway, from your voltage measurements, it seems like the inverter on/off control signal at pin 5 is the major issue here, which would come from the logic board, so the logic board may be the problem. The fact that it happens when assembled is interesting, possibly something overheating. Hard to say at the moment though.

      What things did you change between it working OK while disassembled and shutting down when partially assembled? What did you connect or move or screw back together? Can you show photos of both set-ups?

      Also what I would like to know is how the shutdown problem manifests - what exactly happens? Does the image or the back lights go out first? Does the power LED go off at the same time or does it stay on and you just lose the picture?
      "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
      -David VanHorn

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        #23
        Re: HannsG HH241 problems

        The wires I spoke of are circled in yellow.

        I'll try again this evening, but from memory, when it was all pulled apart, I had the wires mentioned above connected as well as the "ribbon cable".
        Attached Files

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          #24
          Re: HannsG HH241 problems

          Those are high Voltage wires which go to the CCFL, the panel uses 4 lamps.
          Last edited by budm; 09-28-2015, 10:35 AM.
          Never stop learning
          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

          Inverter testing using old CFL:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

          TV Factory reset codes listing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

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            #25
            Re: HannsG HH241 problems

            So, to clarify:

            1) EVERYTHING should be connected for the first set of pin tests

            2) What needs to be connected once the monitor shuts off by itself? I have to disconnect the "high Voltage wires" in order to turn the board over to measure the voltage, so I did that (while it is plugged in... sounds like a bad idea?), and left the rest plugged in (ribbon cable, power cord, VGA cable).

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              #26
              Re: HannsG HH241 problems

              As this seems heat related? and goes off quicker when its built up etc, maybe have the monitor on so its showing a picture etc with the back off get a hair dryer and heat diffrent areas of the boards at diffrent times once you find a area where the monitor switches off quickly you can check that area out. DONT over heat the board as if some capacitors get too hot they can explode etc so use caution.

              Comment


                #27
                Re: HannsG HH241 problems

                Originally posted by Dougmeister View Post
                So, to clarify:

                1) EVERYTHING should be connected for the first set of pin tests

                2) What needs to be connected once the monitor shuts off by itself? I have to disconnect the "high Voltage wires" in order to turn the board over to measure the voltage, so I did that (while it is plugged in... sounds like a bad idea?), and left the rest plugged in (ribbon cable, power cord, VGA cable).
                Unplugging the lamp high voltage wires after it shuts down would be OK since they'd have no power going to them.

                Don't worry about it. I think your test already proved what the problem is: likely something bad on the logic board, turning the inverter off.
                I was just confused by the wires you mentioned as I see them as pink\white and blue\black, and the colours you mentioned weren't familiar to me.

                I would set it up disassembled and turn it on, then start heating the logic board with the hairdryer like vinceroger69 said. See if by doing that you can make it shut down.
                "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                -David VanHorn

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                  #28
                  Re: HannsG HH241 problems

                  Oops.

                  Part of the board touched some metal on the frame and made a loud crackle and spark. Now it won't power on. I think I killed it and put it out of its misery.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #29
                    Re: HannsG HH241 problems

                    With luck you may have only blown the fuse, but you could well have blown Q802 and those diodes as well, and maybe other things.

                    If you want to keep going, clean the soot off the board first as it can be conductive and cause more problems. Check the primary fuse - F801 (black round component near the AC socket).
                    With the power OFF and unplugged, measure resistance across its pins and you should get close to zero ohms, about the same as what you get if you touch the meter probes together. If you get no reading, it's blown.
                    "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                    -David VanHorn

                    Comment


                      #30
                      Re: HannsG HH241 problems

                      Agent24, I did as you said and got a reading of 0.03 ohms. See attached.

                      What else should I check? Or is it probably dead now that we know that the primary fuse is still good?
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #31
                        Re: HannsG HH241 problems

                        Fuse status is still unknown, as you have tested the wrong points. You have basically just checked the PCB trace from the fuse output to one leg of the next connected component, C803. The lighter green areas of the board are the tracks\lands where the different parts are soldered onto.

                        I have marked the image where the fuse leads connect to and where you need to put your meter probes.
                        Attached Files
                        "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                        -David VanHorn

                        Comment


                          #32
                          Re: HannsG HH241 problems

                          Agent24, the value across those two points was 0.06.

                          Comment


                            #33
                            Re: HannsG HH241 problems

                            Looks like you may well have blown something else then.

                            I would clean up those 4 joints which were burnt, check they are still intact and the PCB traces are not broken\burnt there.

                            If they are all OK, I would pull the MOSFET, those diodes D802 and D803 and check them for damage, both visibly and electrically. Replace any which are suspect or you are unable to test.

                            Pull and test the resistors R808, R810 and R815 to see if they have blown open.

                            Also worth visually inspecting all the components on the daughter-board at CN852 for damage. It's possible you have blown the PWM controller IC instead\too. If nothing is obvious and replacing\checking the other parts shows no problem, replacing the PWM IC is probably the next step.
                            "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                            -David VanHorn

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