Re: Desoldering trouble - Pad repair questions
Okay.
That's good to know about the top ring pad not being imperative to the repair.
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I agree, Michael, with what you said earlier. I am actually trying to change as little about the configuration of the board as possible.
Given all of the good advice that you, and others, have given, here is my plan of attack for the repair. Please let me know if you think it's good in total, or if it is flawed in any way:
I am going to leave both of the through-hole positives alone and just solder in the new cap leads there per usual as they both show very clear through-hole, or via, conductivity.
On the C8059 negative, I will scrape the top (being sure to stay within the light green track as I do), and solder the strand wire to the top of the board as you've suggested. Then, drop that through the hole and just solder the strand and the cap lead together on the bottom of the board without any further scraping on the bottom of the board.
On the C8060 negative, I will scrape the top (staying in its light green track), and solder that strand wire to the top of the board as you've suggested. Then, drop that strand wire through the hole. I will then put that cap lead through and cut it down to about 1/2 inch. I'll slip the circular ring pad I saved over this cap lead (and the strand wire too, if possible) and fit that pad down into the burned area so it fits as tight there as possible. I will carefully scrape the area of dark green just to the left and slightly up from the C8060 hole here on the bottom of the board (about the 10 o'clock position), and then bend both the cap lead and the strand wire onto this scraped area and then solder them there. I'll finish by making sure the total amount of solder here on the bottom of C8060 negative covers everything related to the fix (meaning, the solder will form over the cap lead and strand wire where they come out of the hole at the and through the replaced ring pad, and that the solder also flows all the way over to the newly scraped area in the 10 o'clock position so that it is one, continuous "river" of solder in that area).
Does that make sense as an overall approach?
Note: I am also going to try to flow as much solder down into the through holes during the fix as possible, to help ensure that those via conductivities are as effective as possible.
Okay.
That's good to know about the top ring pad not being imperative to the repair.
----------
I agree, Michael, with what you said earlier. I am actually trying to change as little about the configuration of the board as possible.
Given all of the good advice that you, and others, have given, here is my plan of attack for the repair. Please let me know if you think it's good in total, or if it is flawed in any way:
I am going to leave both of the through-hole positives alone and just solder in the new cap leads there per usual as they both show very clear through-hole, or via, conductivity.
On the C8059 negative, I will scrape the top (being sure to stay within the light green track as I do), and solder the strand wire to the top of the board as you've suggested. Then, drop that through the hole and just solder the strand and the cap lead together on the bottom of the board without any further scraping on the bottom of the board.
On the C8060 negative, I will scrape the top (staying in its light green track), and solder that strand wire to the top of the board as you've suggested. Then, drop that strand wire through the hole. I will then put that cap lead through and cut it down to about 1/2 inch. I'll slip the circular ring pad I saved over this cap lead (and the strand wire too, if possible) and fit that pad down into the burned area so it fits as tight there as possible. I will carefully scrape the area of dark green just to the left and slightly up from the C8060 hole here on the bottom of the board (about the 10 o'clock position), and then bend both the cap lead and the strand wire onto this scraped area and then solder them there. I'll finish by making sure the total amount of solder here on the bottom of C8060 negative covers everything related to the fix (meaning, the solder will form over the cap lead and strand wire where they come out of the hole at the and through the replaced ring pad, and that the solder also flows all the way over to the newly scraped area in the 10 o'clock position so that it is one, continuous "river" of solder in that area).
Does that make sense as an overall approach?
Note: I am also going to try to flow as much solder down into the through holes during the fix as possible, to help ensure that those via conductivities are as effective as possible.
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