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    Philips 55PUS6162/12

    Overnight our Philips TV (55PUS6162/12) started behaving badly.

    Unfortunately I'm quite the newbie with this stuff, so I am a bit uncertain what to do, but I detailed everything I've observed and done based on various guides I found on the internet. I also read the "Basic troubleshooting guide" from here, but it seems already not basic enough for me, besides confirming my suspicion that the power supply board is at fault.

    When plugging the TV in it turns on by itself. But only the backlight will turn on, the screen will stay completely black and no sound will play and the power indicator LED is also not turning on. It's also not possible to turn off the TV via the remote (there's no power button on the TV itself).

    When contacting Philips customer support (after giving a couple power cycles a try) they gave us a software upgrade that we should install via a USB stick, but given we don't have any image we don't know if it actually worked. Only thing we know is that it didn't fix the issue we had, but maybe we have new software on the main board now

    Given the current situation I would have to ship the TV to a repair shop, which is ridiculously expensive where I live, so I decided to open up the TV instead and give it a try at manually fixing it.

    Unfortunately neither the power supply board nor the main board have any visible damage like bulging capacitors or burned components.

    I did a couple checks on diodes and transistors in the circuit, some of which behaved weirdly, but I guess measuring in circuit is not really reliable. Before unsoldering anything I wanted to get a second opinion.

    I also tried to measure standby voltage, but it's not clearly labeled. But I guess it is the 3.5V label, aka the lowermost pin. Measuring the voltage on that I saw a steady and really quick drop. Plugging in and positioning my multimeter it already was at ~2V and within 5 to 10 seconds it's down to 8mV, which might as well be 0V in the context. The behavior is the same with the Main Board and/or backlight unplugged.

    If I would have to improvise here I would desolder random transistors and check if they are good or not, but it feels like there could be a better way here.
    To note, I don't have an ESR meter, just a regular multimeter. These ESR meters are also quite expensive and buying one would not really be financially sensible considering the TV is already 3 years old and I don't plan on doing this stuff more often.

    Which component could cause that behavior?

    What other measurements could I do before unsoldering anything?
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

    The map is right there beside CN901, which is the one to test first, usually, on this one there's 2 rows you can test one row from the back of the connector, for the other row you might need very little probe, I use a needle when necessary.
    Last edited by nomoresonys; 11-14-2020, 12:14 PM.

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      #3
      Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

      Video demo there if needed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v8DcqCNG4A

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        #4
        Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

        The fault seems to be at the mainboard, it can also be a software problem but impossible for you to solve, or only a canche, ask philips the methods of how to force an update with your usb key.. for example pressing ok on remote then plug the mains and wait for it to begin. In theese cases is useful a connection to pc via uart and see the log to be able to locate sw problems
        Last edited by Davi.p; 11-15-2020, 01:51 AM.

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          #5
          Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

          Originally posted by nomoresonys View Post
          The map is right there beside CN901, which is the one to test first, usually, on this one there's 2 rows you can test one row from the back of the connector, for the other row you might need very little probe, I use a needle when necessary.
          So should I test all those connectors (besides ground I guess) when the TV is plugged (or for the back ones I guess only when the board is plugged in)?

          EDIT: I'm asking because I would usually read that I should measure the standby voltage and that must be the 3.5V pin, right? And that is already screwed from my measurements.
          Also I have a kind of crappy multimeter, so I am a bit scared to measure the other pins because it would be easy to short them accidentally ^^'
          Last edited by Malacath-92; 11-15-2020, 03:19 AM.

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            #6
            Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

            Originally posted by Davi.p View Post
            The fault seems to be at the mainboard, it can also be a software problem but impossible for you to solve, or only a canche, ask philips the methods of how to force an update with your usb key.. for example pressing ok on remote then plug the mains and wait for it to begin. In theese cases is useful a connection to pc via uart and see the log to be able to locate sw problems
            Like I said, Philips gave me an update pkg file and I tried installing that (according to their instructions) but it didn't seem to make any difference. I could try again for good measure, but I doubt we did anything wrong.
            I also have no idea how I would be able to see the log from my PC. Can't see any instructions in the service manual. Is there a guide somewhere on the forums?

            Also, I'm curious to understand what made you make the conclusion that this is a mainboard issue (if you have the patience to explain that)? Even when the mainboard is unplugged from the power board the backlight turns on and the LED power indicator does not. So I don't know how the mainboard fits into the equation. Is it the mainboard that usually turns the LED on and the backlight off? And in case of failure that just doesn't happen?

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              #7
              Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

              The status led is obvously controlled by mainboard, since this is an Android tv theese often suffers from software problems, you can try buy an usb to low voltage uart adapter for few bucks and find on the service manual a point of connection for the uart, must seach for signals like TX or TXD , RX or RXD, and connect via wire, sometimes is connectable via vga port using a vga cable

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                #8
                Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                Originally posted by Davi.p View Post
                The status led is obvously controlled by mainboard, since this is an Android tv theese often suffers from software problems, you can try buy an usb to low voltage uart adapter for few bucks and find on the service manual a point of connection for the uart, must seach for signals like TX or TXD , RX or RXD, and connect via wire, sometimes is connectable via vga port using a vga cable
                Okej, good that that's obvious to you because it isn't to me ^^'
                I'll check if I can find on of those adapters and see if I can find the connection on the service manual.

                I'm also curious how my measurements of the dropping voltage fits into the picture, if this is a mainboard failure?

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                  #9
                  Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                  you need to check the T-CON fuse F if it had 12V on both side... if yes.. then yours issue firmware at main boards... look at your boards from both side if you could find 2 joint points under name ASM or CSM. check and tell the result for further steps.

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                    #10
                    Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                    Originally posted by Diah View Post
                    you need to check the T-CON fuse F if it had 12V on both side... if yes.. then yours issue firmware at main boards... look at your boards from both side if you could find 2 joint points under name ASM or CSM. check and tell the result for further steps.
                    What's the T-CON fuse F? I don't see any fuse on the T-CON board

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                      #11
                      Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                      Originally posted by Malacath-92 View Post
                      So should I test all those connectors (besides ground I guess) when the TV is plugged (or for the back ones I guess only when the board is plugged in)?

                      EDIT: I'm asking because I would usually read that I should measure the standby voltage and that must be the 3.5V pin, right? And that is already screwed from my measurements.
                      Also I have a kind of crappy multimeter, so I am a bit scared to measure the other pins because it would be easy to short them accidentally ^^'
                      I see, ok looks like we need to know if your standby voltage is what it should be, maybe try disconnect everything from the powerboard, plug power cable into powerboard, now see if you have the correct standby voltage. You are absolutely right, without the proper standby voltage the tv will not work. Most meters can handle these measurements, my method is to get the positive probe firmly on the pin I want to measure then touch neg. probe to chassis ground, takes a second to measure, then lift neg. probe and move pos. probe to next pin etc. it takes a little longer than just leaving neg. probe on the whole time but haven't had any mishaps with this method.
                      Last edited by nomoresonys; 11-15-2020, 04:13 AM.

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                        #12
                        Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                        Originally posted by nomoresonys View Post
                        I see, ok looks we need to know if your standby voltage is what it should be, maybe try disconnect everything from the powerboard, plug power cable into powerboard, now see if you have the correct standby voltage.
                        I will do another set of measurements soon. I think I figured out what the T-CON fuse is (mentioned in a post #9) and will re-check standby voltage. But last time I checked as I explained in the OP I removed both backlight and mainboard from the power supply board and still had the dropping standby voltage. All this assumes that the 3.5V pin really is for the standby voltage, which I have neither gotten approval for nor denial

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                          #13
                          Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                          Originally posted by Malacath-92 View Post
                          What's the T-CON fuse F? I don't see any fuse on the T-CON board
                          look on yours photo

                          you have BL turning ON. mean yours standBy Okay... and the main boards starts first steps to turn on BL.. don't miss up with power boards..
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by Diah; 11-15-2020, 04:15 AM.

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                            #14
                            Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                            Originally posted by Diah View Post
                            look on yours photo

                            you have BL turning ON. mean yours standBy Okay... and the main boards starts first steps to turn on BL.. don't miss up with power boards..
                            Yeah, I said in the post above that I realized which one you meant, my bad I'll measure that soon.

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                              #15
                              Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                              if STBY V. dropped down .. you need to test remove the wifi module sockets from MB and the front panal LED Indicators boards too and turn on. any of those if had fault will effect on the 3.3V STB

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                                #16
                                Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                                I would check the solder joints closely, maybe use a magnifying glass. Yes other components can effect a proper diode reading so if any doubt at all, check out of circuit, I just clip a leg above board test it and re-solder the leg if it tests ok.
                                Last edited by nomoresonys; 11-15-2020, 04:34 AM.

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                                  #17
                                  Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                                  STBY drops to zero with any amount of boards connected/disconnected, so also with nothing connected.

                                  All 12V pins show 12V to ground.

                                  The T-CON board fuse has 12V to ground on both sides, ~3kOhm resistance to ground. Is not blown.

                                  I'll give it another try to install the firmware that Philips gave. I'll use a different USB stick this time, because I can't really figure out what other variables ther would be involved.

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                                    #18
                                    Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                                    Simple diode testing there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXOS5czCb3Q

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                                      #19
                                      Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                                      Originally posted by Malacath-92 View Post
                                      STBY drops to zero with any amount of boards connected/disconnected, so also with nothing connected.

                                      All 12V pins show 12V to ground.

                                      The T-CON board fuse has 12V to ground on both sides, ~3kOhm resistance to ground. Is not blown.

                                      I'll give it another try to install the firmware that Philips gave. I'll use a different USB stick this time, because I can't really figure out what other variables ther would be involved.
                                      sorry may.. you have some things wrong with your test.. this will never happend and you still have 12V on T-CON or at MB

                                      maybe you are messuring other pins on the socket.

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                                        #20
                                        Re: Philips 55PUS6162/12

                                        Wonder if the battery is low in your meter, can you test something, like a new 9 volt or 1.5 volt battery or some such?

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