Wine Enthusiast wine cooler, no power. Model # 272 03 29

[ajsterr4]

I'm gonna take this thing apart very soon, gonna give it a a look over. Check for burn marks and bulged caps.

I read to check for continuity throughout, I have a multimeter, what process should I follow? How can I check for bad fuses as well?

Any info helps, I got this unit for free. Thanks to everyone here.

[CapLeaker]

Do a visual check on everything, take pictures and go from there.

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by CapLeaker

Do a visual check on everything, take pictures and go from there.

Look at these pictures please.

[R_J]

In picture 1 or 3, upper left corner, check if you have around +12 volts between ground and OUT (red wire). You did check the fuse, correct?

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by R_J

In picture 1 or 3, upper left corner, check if you have around +12 volts between ground and OUT (red wire). You did check the fuse, correct?

Plugged in?

I'm not getting 12 V, I'm trying the rear solder connections is that ok?

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by R_J

You did check the fuse, correct?

No how do I do that?

I think that's good my multimeter beeps and shows. 0.04 ohms

It wont allow me to take the fuse out so I tested it on the board

[R_J]

The fuse seems to check good.
Check if you have DC voltage on the input capacitors It will be around 160VDC. Be very carefull, this is the a/c line side of the power supply

[Per Hansson]

Originally Posted by R_J

The fuse seems to check good.
Check if you have DC voltage on the input capacitors It will be around 160VDC. Be very carefull, this is the a/c line side of the power supply

In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by Per Hansson

In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.

So, picture 2 is the same as pic 1 just front/back . I should check voltage? I understand its dangerous. How can I be safe? Gloves?

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by Per Hansson

In the quoted post R_J asked you to check the rectified AC voltage.
Without that check it is hard to get further: but this is a dangerous check done with power connected as he mentions.
Please check the attached photos, I have marked the same point but on the top of the board, so you can check if you have 160VDC with the board mounted.
I have also marked several solder joints that look bad, please check them.

Redwire asked you to check the fuse again: it looks in the photos like one of the sides is physically broken? Just check that it is really physically connected well to the board.

I checked the rectifier ac voltage and it sparked twice... should my multimeter be the other way? Spot looks burnt now

I tried multimeter with red in the other slot and it didnt spark, no reading or rather went from ~50 to 0 quickly.

Fuse looks good

[CapLeaker]

the fuse is soldered in, you can't take it just out. If the fuse measures a short, which it does, it's good. We have to figure out where the problem is, is it on the secondary (low voltage) side, or is there a problem on the primary (mains circuit). If you do poke around the primary side of the PSU while plugged in, be careful. After all this is 120VAC, after the rectifier into the main filter capacitor are 170VDC. If you measure DC voltages on the primary side, the negative lead of your DMM goes to the negative of the main filter capacitor. Working with DC voltages on the secondary, the negative lead of the DMM goes to the negative of the output capacitor or GND.

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by CapLeaker

. If you measure DC voltages on the primary side, the negative lead of your DMM goes to the negative of the main filter capacitor. Working with DC voltages on the secondary, the negative lead of the DMM goes to the negative of the output capacitor or GND.

What is difference between main filter capacitors and the output capacitor on secondary?

Do I need an ESR meter?

[redwire]

For the technical guys, there are hand drawn bits and pieces of the board's schematic on the Web. I did find this "roughly similar" schematic, at least to help understand the basics.

It looks like a half-bridge SMPS that is self-resonant (for start-up) and then the TL494 takes over and running off the Peltier module power afterwards.
Common for the small capacitors by the heatsink to fail, like C8 on power for the TL494 47uF 25V to VCC pin 12.

Wine Fridge Power Board similar longggg thread here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=42346
edit: Power Supply board CD-110-C also used in Haier wine coolers.

[ajsterr4]

What's the best way I can carry out these tasks safely? I have an esd wrist strap and esd gloves. It would be nice if I could test it on a table, but I guess I have to have it all plugged in to test?

You can probably tell I am a not up to speed on diagnosing electronics, the challenge is nice but I also want to learn.

What is the TL494, is that a CAP or PWM - is that the same thing as a transformer?

On the primary side you say be careful, so I will try to not touch anything, only with probes, yes?

Edit: C8 is a cap should I refer to c8 on that schematic or the c8 on my board? It says CD-110-D6
CD-220-D6

[stj]

Originally Posted by ajsterr4

What is the TL494, is that a CAP or PWM - is that the same thing as a transformer?

TL494 is the larger of the 2 chips on the left

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by stj

TL494 is the larger of the 2 chips on the left

This long chip? I see C8, should I test TL494 or the SMPS?

Do I refer to the schematic for TL494 to test?

Will my multimeter cut the mustard? No ESR meter

[ajsterr4]

What's the best way I can carry out these tasks safely? I have an esd wrist strap and esd gloves. It would be nice if I could test it on a table, but I guess I have to have it all plugged in to test?

You can probably tell I am a not up to speed on diagnosing electronics, the challenge is nice but I also want to learn.

What is the TL494, is that a CAP or PWM - is that the same thing as a transformer?

On the primary side you say be careful, so I will try to not touch anything, only with probes, yes?

I'm going to have to do alot of reading, will I need an ESR meter?

[stj]

there is a ceramic capacitor almost between the 2 transformers - c17
it looks very dark!

[ajsterr4]

Originally Posted by stj

there is a ceramic capacitor almost between the 2 transformers - c17
it looks very dark!

So test this one? How should I, what reading am I looking for?

[redwire]

There is an electrocution hazard when taking measurements off a live board that is flopping around.
Check if you are OK with your experience level and the dangers of working on mains-powered equipment. A slip with a multimeter probe can be bad if something shorts or your hand is touching the fridge.

Capacitor C17 and resistor R33 are the snubber network, they do make a lot of heat and see high stress, and the chinese always use cheap parts there. C17 looks like a dog. Maybe 1000pF 1kV. R33 is half cooked. Need a side pic.

But their failure would just stress the main power transistors...
With the power off, I would use a multimeter and test the power transistors T6, T7? the ones on the two small heatsinks possibly part number CDL13005.[/s]
edit: OP shows they are D13007K.

Note some transistor makes have an internal diode across C-E.
edit: No internal C-E diode in D13007K.