flourescent ballast resistance

[stj]

lol

[eccerr0r]

The F15T8 mag ballast I'm pretty sure can be used for PL13, though I have a mag ballast PL13 lamp somewhere...

Also have a PL13 lamp with electronic ballast which I like more because it starts much faster. Except it died because its caps died...and ran out of smallish 20µF 150V caps for the doubler in it to replace it.

... now if I used two 3300µF caps for the doubler...

[Per Hansson]

Originally Posted by stj

i think it's 9w
i had an idea,
i will short the 2 pins on the ballast,
then connect the mains cable to a pcb from a CFL.
if the lamp lights - the ballast is fucked.

It requires a ballast to work, otherwise it will burn out.
In your picture on the lamp it is written Osram Dulux S model 827, it has a G23 base.

From the datasheet we can see it is a 11W lamp that requires 91v.
If you feed it mains directly it might explode.
It does have an internal starter but not a complete ballast like CFL's with E27 sockets for example.

https://www.elfa.se/en/fluorescent-b...827/p/13354255

[stj]

read the post again.
i was going to drive it with the electronic ballast from a cfl.
not with mains.

[CapLeaker]

Finding a 9w cfl ballast shouldn’t be a problem as these are very common. Only thing is, you gotta be damn near on the ball, otherwise too much or too little (wattage mismatch) will damage that lamp. Magnetic or electronic won’t matter.

[stj]

fuck the lamp - i have a dozen new ones.
i just want to verify that the ballast is the problem and not a broken wire or shitty lamp socket.

[CapLeaker]

Wire a similar lamp or cfl to that ballast.

[redwire]

I know two-wire tubes are cold-cathode. If you have a HV AC source, like a car ignition coil+555, you can put the HV wire anywhere near the tube and it will ionize and light. BBQ lighter not sure.
It's a weird problem, I think either the ballast is pooched having insulation breakdown and it can't deliver the HV start spike.
No idea what the starter is about, I think it shorts the tube then opens, which causes the ballast to charge and dump EMF into the tube to light it.

[stj]

the plastic tube base has a starter across the heaters - it acts just like a fullsize tube.
it's actually a good design because it means when you replace the lamp you get a new starter without having to actually get a seperate one.

the downside is you cant use an electronic ballast because they need all 4 wires.

this is interesting:
https://www.greenelectricalsupply.co...ght-white.aspx

[CapLeaker]

Originally Posted by stj

the plastic tube base has a starter across the heaters - it acts just like a fullsize tube.
it's actually a good design because it means when you replace the lamp you get a new starter without having to actually get a seperate one.

the downside is you cant use an electronic ballast because they need all 4 wires.

this is interesting:
https://www.greenelectricalsupply.co...ght-white.aspx

That options seems cheap and easy enough!

[eccerr0r]

Originally Posted by stj

the plastic tube base has a starter across the heaters - it acts just like a fullsize tube.
it's actually a good design because it means when you replace the lamp you get a new starter without having to actually get a seperate one.

the downside is you cant use an electronic ballast because they need all 4 wires.

Actually, that PL13 lamp that I was mentioning, has the integral starter... and it's using an electronic ballast!

https://www.harborfreight.com/lighti...ord-63162.html