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#741 |
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: The Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: Split-Phase 240VAC @ 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 728
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![]() Correct me if i'm wrong but isn't NCC's KZG line of capacitors know to be bad?
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#742 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() They can usually work for some time but harsh conditions make them go bad sooner.
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#743 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,243
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![]() Quote:
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In any case, if I see them on a buck regulator output (like CPU VRM out), I always replace them. Nah, the 6.3V KZGs are so bad, they will bulge by themselves in storage. I've seen it enough times now that I don't trust them at all. They are no better in use either, especially if there is even a tiny amount of heat present. |
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#744 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() I have seen enough of them working for years to state the contrary. I mean MANY do that but not all.
In the end, are you sure you have not exceeded shelf time? I would guess you 1000% did as the shell life is about 42 days. So even these caps meet their specs ![]() |
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#745 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,243
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![]() Quote:
Shelf life is typically stated as X many hours at max. rated temperature (so usually either 85C or 105C). Unfortunately, datasheets don't say much about shelf life at avg. room temperature. |
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#746 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() In that case it obviously makes sense to consider them the same…as usually, they MAY handle more, but this is the worst case.
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#747 | |
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,243
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![]() Quote:
It probably works somewhat similar to expected lifetime, which approximately doubles for every 10C drop in temperature. Also, most datasheets state for shelf life that a capacitor should be in spec up to X hours. That doesn't mean the capacitor should fail as soon as that shelf life is crossed. Also, datasheets often state that reforming a capacitor after it has been in storage for full rated shelf life, should bring it back to spec. Clearly, that is not the case with KZGs bulging left and right. Yes, I too have a lot of stuff with KZG caps that haven't gone bad and have lasted many years. But I just have enough stuff as well that hasn't lasted at all with KZG, so that's why I consider them not reliable. |
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#748 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() Not reliable!=not delivering spec. The thing is just they do not usually live way longer than specified as most other NCC series, as we are used to.
The ultra-low ESR series usually have very low endurance, other series from Rubycon, Samxon, Suncon (Sanyo) also fail after many years of use. Not arguing that KZG are generally even worse though. |
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#749 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
City & State: CA.
My Country: USA.
Line Voltage: 120-125VAC 60Hz.
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,267
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![]() AFAIK, the ultra-low impedance series (NOS liquid electrolytics) from Rubycon, Samxon, Panasonic, Nichicon post-2005, and most from Suncon (except the WF series), did not have issues with generating hydrogen gas just sitting on the shelf. I would have to concur with momaka that KZG (and KZJ, as well as TMJ and TMV) are bad capacitors in earnest. So bad, in fact, that even though they can last many years before they fail in well ventilated environments, once they finally do start failing, they have an exceptionally high failure rate and nothing will change that. The issue is probably complicated... because they pushed the chemistry too far, the electrolyte is doomed to failure, and if you use too many stabilizing additives, you can reduce the conductivity of the electrolyte, along with the breakdown voltage, and unnecessarily increase the cost of manufacturing them. So they had to make them unstable to yield good performance, even though they don't last.
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#750 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
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Posts: 4,774
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![]() You sure it is hydrogen, you analysed that using spectroscope?
Increasing numbers of bad ultra-low ESR Rubycon, Samxon and Suncon caps are reported lately. So Quote:
Cause yes, ffs, time is running and all those 939, AM2, 775 boards with these bloated caps are 8-13 years old now! Socket 939 came in 2004, AM2 in 2006, same for Core 2 architecture. Nehalem arrived in 2008, that's 9 years ago! We will surelly see some of 115x boards with wet lytics dying soon, if we have not already. |
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#751 | |
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: The Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: Split-Phase 240VAC @ 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 728
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The computer has not been touched ever since it died years ago. Still runs windows XP tho. |
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#752 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
City & State: CA.
My Country: USA.
Line Voltage: 120-125VAC 60Hz.
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 1,267
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![]() I don't have such equipment, no. It's technically true that if a capacitor bulges and becomes as hard as a rock on the shelf, that while there is certainly gas formation, hydrogen formation would require bias across the plates.
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As an aside, I'm not really convinced that the 16V-rated KZG and KZJ do much better than the 6.3V-related KZG and KZJ (or the 10V-rated ones, for that matter)... they may "last" longer because they're usually under less stress but I think they're doomed to failure too. Also, the endurance tests don't test the capacitors until they fail. They simply test them long enough for them to remain within the specified conditions even after however many hours at the rated temperature, maximum rated ripple current (particularly for low-ESR capacitors), maximum rated voltage, etc. Last edited by Wester547; 03-19-2017 at 08:31 PM.. |
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#753 |
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: The Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: Split-Phase 240VAC @ 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 728
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I'm not a expert, I'm just doing my best. Last edited by RukyCon; 03-31-2017 at 03:13 AM.. |
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#754 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2009
City & State: Prague, 50°4'52.22"N, 14°23'30.45"E
My Country: CZ
Line Voltage: 230 V/50 Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,774
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![]() Would any of the contributors mind if I borrowed some pics for a banner? I have my own stock of HW with bloated caps, but don't have time to take good pics, it may be easier to just find some good ones here…at least I hope so
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#755 |
A Fake Rubycon
Join Date: Jan 2017
City & State: The Peoples Republic of California
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: Split-Phase 240VAC @ 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 728
|
![]() I would not mind at all.
![]() If you like, i can leave links to all of the photos i've taken so far. [Of failing caps of course.] |
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#756 |
Comrade Glimmer
Join Date: Aug 2007
City & State: tehas
My Country: US
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,941
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![]() My 12 year old yahama reciever I got from Radio shack for a bitching $99. Had been working fantastic for so long, but last year it started to get a cold hum, that would go away after it warmed up. Eventually the hum would decrease when it got warm but not go fully away. I go tired of it today and finally took it apart. Pretty sure these are the culprit. I'm going to replace them with UCC KY's. Close match, slightly better specs, higher life
I love living 5 minutes from mouser headquarters. No shipping, can pick up locally.
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Cap Datasheet Depot: http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/ ^If you have datasheets not listed PM me |
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#757 | ||
master hoarder
Join Date: May 2008
City & State: VA (NoVA)
My Country: U.S.A.
Line Voltage: 120 VAC, 60 Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 11,243
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![]() Quote:
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#758 |
Comrade Glimmer
Join Date: Aug 2007
City & State: tehas
My Country: US
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,941
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![]() they were made better in the 80s. This was around 2005
son of a bitch, the hardened goop held a diode under it and it cracked when I removed the small cap. I'm not too familiar with diode replacement, anyone know what to get? it was in a circuit with a 25v 1kuf cap |
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#759 |
Comrade Glimmer
Join Date: Aug 2007
City & State: tehas
My Country: US
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 4,941
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![]() UGH I cannot find a schematic for this amp board. I googled the board model and got NOTHING. googling the amp gets me owners manuals.
I know its a glass diode, not sure if its germanium, schottky, or zenier. All I know is its in this circut with this 25v cap, other side connects to a resistor (circuit below, can't see the resistor). Oh yeah. and its the main part of this boards VRM, past the LARGE transformer I can't see the models on any of these diodes, they're too damn small, even with my phone zoom, and it has good zoom Last edited by Uranium-235; 04-09-2017 at 01:47 AM.. |
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#760 |
ghettomodmaster
Join Date: Nov 2016
City & State: Bulgaria
My Country: Bulgaria
Line Voltage: 230VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 953
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![]() These are a low power shottky diodes. Perhaps 1A/50V shottky diode will replace it just fine. Unless it's something special that requires this exact signal diode. D should be rectifier diode. If it was ZD, then It would be zener diode.
And you are right. They were producing shottky, zeners and other stuff in glass package. p.s Also the sign on the back of the board says rectifier. If it was zener, then the sign would be different.
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Useful conversions. I don't "speak" imperial. Please use metric, if you want to address me. 1km=1000m=100000cm, 1inch=2.54cm, 1mile=1609.344meters, 1ft=30.48cm 1gal(US)=3.785liters, 1lb=453grams, 1oz=28.34grams Last edited by televizora; 04-09-2017 at 03:07 AM.. |
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