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#1 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
City & State: Some times Sunny Jacksonville FL
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120 Volts 60 HZ
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,009
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![]() Here is the story....>>>
Tuesday of this week I got a text from some good friends of my son We had a really bad thunderstorm that came throught made the power go ON and OFF a few time .....>>> Well after the power came back on for good the Refrigerator would NOT turn back ON and run This is one of the newer models that has a micro controller that controls everything This Refrigerator is DEAD no LIFE other than the light in side the frigate part and the light in freezer So took a look at the control board and what do I see is a TOP246YN offline IC switcher on this board and a BYW29-200G UL fast 200 v 8A Diode and two caps next to the Switcher IC one was a 47 uf no ESR value at all 1 uf 50 ohms that is not a misprint Replaced the IC switcher and the Diode and the two caps Put the control board back in the Refrigerator and everything came back to life BTW this control board retail for $190.00 I got all the part from Digi-key for $15.00 and ordered 3 switcher IC and 2 diodes It took about two hours pull these parts and change them because they coated the board with what look like hot glue
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9 PC LCD Monitor 6 LCD Flat Screen TV 30 Desk Top Switching Power Supply 10 Battery Charger Switching Power Supply for Power Tool 6 18v Lithium Battery Power Boards for Tool Battery Packs 1 XBox 360 Switching Power Supply and M Board 25 Servo Drives 220/460 3 Phase 6 De-soldering Station Switching Power Supply 1 Power Supply 1 Dell Mother Board 15 Computer Power Supply 1 HP Printer Supply & Control Board * lighting finished it * These two repairs where found with a ESR meter...> Temp at 50*F then at 90*F the ESR reading more than 10% 1 Over Head Crane Current Sensing Board ( VFD Failure Five Years Later ) 2 Hem Saw Computer Stack Board All of these had ![]() All of the mosfet that are taken out by bad caps ![]() Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 11-21-2014 at 08:49 PM.. |
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#2 | |
Capaholic
Join Date: Jan 2011
City & State: Trenton, NJ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 240/120V 60Hz
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Muh-soggy-knee |
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#3 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
City & State: Some times Sunny Jacksonville FL
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120 Volts 60 HZ
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,009
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![]() It took a little while to find the box that I had put them in
The brand name of the two caps are the same Ltec SM 85*C 4601D this was on the caps The other caps on the board were different brands I did not change them because of all the hot glue on this board Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 12-11-2014 at 01:59 PM.. |
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#4 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
City & State: Some times Sunny Jacksonville FL
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120 Volts 60 HZ
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,009
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![]() I know that this is a very old post but I recently talked to the person that I had fixed his refrigerator and he told me that it was still working good after this repair
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#5 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2012
City & State: ☻
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![]() I have seen this many times, it was likely just the power being turned off that it did not turn back on. As long as power is applied, the ic's vcc stays up, even with the 47µf being very low. But when the vcc cap is that low it will not charge up and start the ic again. Ask him to unplug the fridge for 5 min and see if it starts back up again.
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#6 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
City & State: Some times Sunny Jacksonville FL
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120 Volts 60 HZ
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 4,009
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![]() That is what I had done before I came to the conclusion that there was something wrong with the controller board
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