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#201 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
City & State: Central Washington
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 170
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![]() Those are probably Sacon FZ series.
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#202 |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
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![]() Here are 4 photos of the bad caps on the EVGA e-GeForce 7600GS video card. I hope they are clear enough. If they aren't, I'll redo them.
As I said, when this thing blew up, it took out the mobo too. :-( |
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#203 | |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
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![]() Quote:
So, what should I replace them with? Panasonics? Rubycon? Nichicon? Ken Gordon W7EKB |
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#204 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
City & State: North Coast, NSW
My Country: Australia
Line Voltage: 240V 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 5,051
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![]() Kgordon, Topcat had some similar cards to yours, also with failed Sacon FZ.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8679
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I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!! No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards ![]() Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro |
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#205 |
Grumpy Old Fart
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 10,630
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![]() Those are Sacon FZ series. - Complete Crap.
Sacon = GSC = Evercon. -> New names, same company, same crappy caps. The FZ also come with black markings. They try to look like Nichicon [black] or Chemicon [blue] Solid Polymer caps but the "K" stamp gives them away as regular lytics.
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Mann-Made Global Warming. - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate. - Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr Seuss - You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook. - |
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#206 |
Grumpy Old Fart
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 10,630
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![]() Panasonic FM or FJ, Rubycon MBZ, Sanyo WG, or solid Polymer are all good choices to replace FZ. - Even though a ultra-crap brand FZ are high grade caps. [Grade meaning ESR/Ripple ratings, not quality.]
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#207 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
City & State: Central Washington
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 170
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![]() The only one I see was a 470uF 16V, which is rated 1800mA ripple, 0.022 ESR.
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#208 | |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
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![]() Quote:
I can see two 1500uF at 6.3 with blown tops in the first photo, and two 1000uF 6.3 with blown tops in the last photo. I apologize for not posting better photos, but I didn't have my camera with me. I took those with my cell phone camera. Ken Gordon W7EKB |
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#209 |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2
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![]() Here are some shots of a video card that was in a client's PC. User reported that the screen would blink or flicker.
I'll resize later if pics are too large. Last edited by gwb; 03-09-2010 at 11:14 PM.. |
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#210 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
City & State: Central Washington
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 170
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![]() Are you sure? I see a FZ 470 16V in the forth pic. I see now its different from the others. If you are going to replace the bad ones, you might as well do that one too, just because its not explody does not mean its not bad..
1500uF @ 6.3V is rated same as the 470uF 16V parts. 1000uF @ 6.3V is rated 1150mA ripple 0.036 ESR |
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#211 | |||
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Ken Gordon W7EKB |
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#212 |
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 11
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![]() Can anyone tell me 1) who made these POSs, and 2) what the information written on them and their colors mean?
For instance, in the photo of the single cap, the number 49, 470 (uf, I presume), the 6e, and the green stripe. I apologize for the out-of-focus photos, but I will bring my "good" camera to work tomorrow. Ken Gordon W7EKB |
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#213 |
Grumpy Old Fart
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 10,630
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![]() Very hard to ID some polys.
If they are using a typical marking scheme..... The 47 & 49 are -probably- a bacth/date code. 470 is the uF 6 & 16 are the volts. ['6' probably means 6.3v] The 'E' and 'A' - series codes. |
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#214 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 53
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![]() The green ones are sanyo/suncon CE-EX (http://www.sunelec.co.jp/eng/catalog/pdf/eCE-EX.pdf).
These are hybrid polymer capacitors like the yellow fujitsu, and normally are reliable. Black ones are Sanyo/Suncon CE-AX electrolytic (http://www.sunelec.co.jp/eng/catalog/pdf/e40_41.pdf) |
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#215 |
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Aloha, Oregon
Posts: 13
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![]() Here are the bad caps from my Samsung LN-S4041D LCDTV power supply board. Samwha 1000uF 10V 105C series WB. They're also marked "U8A" on one side. Not sure what that means, doesn't quite seem like a date code but I guess it could be.
Replaced with Rubicon 1000uF 16V MCZs from Badcaps.net. Four of them. I was going to replace the other two, but I failed to notice on my initial inspection before ordering that the two other caps were 1000uF 25V. They're also series WB but they seem to be okay. I think I'll let 'em slide for now. It's the 10V caps which are a known issue with this model. This is the project which brought me to this site. Hopefully the information can be useful to someone else. |
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#216 |
Grumpy Old Fart
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 10,630
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![]() They are WB series. - It is to the right of the logo.
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#217 |
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Aloha, Oregon
Posts: 13
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![]() Heh, yeah. I got that. It's right in my post.
![]() I just wasn't sure what "U8A" meant although I think it might be some kind of date code (other caps are marked U something A). There's also an "M" in parentheses after the 105C mark. But yeah, I've read that the 10V rated caps in these TVs are faulty and that the Samwha WB series caps are touch-and-go in general. (Someone here, somewhere, mentioned that.) |
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#218 |
Grumpy Old Fart
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 10,630
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![]() .
I lost it in the speculation about what U8A is. I agree, it's a date code but I dunno how to decode it. - WB is an obsolete series. Not made any more. The M is the uF tolerance. It means +/-20%. Most all caps you will see in PC stuff are +/-20% so you will see the M a lot. . |
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#219 |
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
City & State: Aloha, Oregon
Posts: 13
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#220 |
Grumpy Old Fart
Join Date: Aug 2005
City & State: Phoenix, AZ
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 10,630
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![]() My cerebral knowledge base leaked out all over the floor when I thought I'd retired from this crap.
I've spent the last couple years trying to cram some of it back in. . |
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